[Libelle]

I am using 0.40s and considering 0.43's (which, mathematically, should be superior if my piston volume is up to it) but with the 0.40's I am having problems with the hopup not being aggressive enough to overcome the inertia of the ball well. I am getting good range, but it is all lobbing, and I feel I could to better with a decent spin on the ball.

I already have an R-hop, and a flat, wide nub. What more can I do here?

Edit: Oh, it is trotters, not trodders. Stupid flaps so hard to distinguish.

 

[reezo]

An R-Hop should be able to lift 0.43g easily..most of the time, when not filed correctly, it over hops them..does your hop up work correctly with lighter BBs, like let's say the .20g standard (just for the sake of having a baseline)?

There are experienced R-Hop users here like Cheese Man, so I'll let him chime in but it's strange that the R-Hop isn't providing enough spin for you..my guess would be a nub/pressure problem..

 

[Cheese Man]

Often pistol hopups don't have the power to really lift heavy rounds. You have 2 choices here.

1: TDC. You will have to mutilate your pistol, and it might not work on certain GBBs. But, you will be able to apply as much hop as you could have ever wanted.

2: Reinstall the R-hop patch so that it overhops. You know the tuning stage where you sand the inside channel? Sand it down slightly less than you did for this time. That gives you a zero setting that allows you to hop, say, .3s, and then with a little pressure you can easily move to .4s or even .43s.

 

[Libelle]

Cheeseman, that was a stupid typoe. This is certainly not a pistol. Nor is it an GBB. It is an AEG.

I refuse to fire 0.20s out of the gun but when required for chrononography. It is simply too stressful to have so little back-pressure. This is a commercial R-hop, and it is rated for 0.36's and with an M130 spring. http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?products_id=10581 It is a drop-in piece, so I do not know the tunning phase of sanding the channel.

I have some 0.32's around, but I discontinued using them for the 0.40's . I have a Madbull Python, and the walls are thin on it compared to other barrels. Maybe it is not letting the bucking seat well.

 

[Cheese Man]

Okay. Well, in that case, you will want an actual R-hop. That is an inferior version of the R-hop, and usually doesn't perform nearly as well.

If you want to stick with that bucking, then you will want to do a TDC modification through the upper receiver. Mind if I ask what style it is? Armalites are generally easier (you could DIY), but for something like a G3 or G36 you would probably have to have someone else do it.

 

[Libelle]

What does the top-dead-centre mod do. I could not work it out. Just seemed to make a mess of everything.

What is wrong with the REAPS?

It is a JG drum-style hopup

 

[Cheese Man]

It allows you to put direct pressure on the hop arm, so instead of using a plastic something that can bend and has a limited range of adjustment, the TDC allows you to put as much pressure as you want directly on the hop arm.

The REAPS has a nub that is too short to really help, and part of the reason that the R-hop works as well as it does is because it is adhered to the barrel window and it is custom fitted. Basically, REAPS is just a bad execution.

I meant what kind of rifle, though from that it would seem to be of the V3 gearbox persuasion, am I right?

 

[Libelle]

Yes, it is a V3. The top-dead centre mod is 1) ugly, and 4) not able to fit in my gun I suppose, as a bunch of stuff is over the hopup, like my face.

The REAPS bucking did not come with a nub. Maybe we could make a better, even wider nub. Are there metal parts for JG hopups?

The REAPS has tightened my group by about half, so it might be going something well.

 

[Cheese Man]

If you do it with a set screw, you won't even see it. What gun are you using? I don't know of any besides bullpups where the hopup is that close to the cheek weld...

I have no idea. I would use a foam nub, personally, but you are already suffering from under-hop, so I have no idea what to tell you.

It might be.

 

[Libelle]

Oh yes, it is a bullpup. I want to do an expo on it, but it is in the shop now since some jerkoff managed to break the hopup while putting the gun in a bag. Did not even close the bag all the way.

What about metal hopups for TM compatible guns. Do they exist? Would it help?

 

[goldentrigun]

What airsoft gun is it exactly? There are only a handful of airsoft guns which are bullpup in design.
Depending on what it is you may or may not be able to pick up a hop up of a better quality.

 

[Libelle]

An AUG, only much cooler than that sounds.

 

[goldentrigun]

Well without looking hard I see two which are of metal construction.
http://www.wgcshop.com/wgc2008/main...HAUG&search=special&rs=aug hop up&catid=&cat=

http://www.wgcshop.com/wgc2008/main...1-84&search=special&rs=aug hop up&catid=&cat=

He is talking about the arms of the chamber being made of a plastic material really. They generally don't make those out of metal. I think I've only ever seen two hop up arms made from metal.

You could try a hard plastic nub in place of the standard. That gave me considerably more hop-up especially if you make the nub the size of the window. Take a pen tube and cut a small piece off of that. It's worth a shot the most it'll do is jam.

 

[Libelle]

I supposed he was talking about a metal arm. I already have the biro-nub. I will reinvestigate it also.

I probably should get a metal housing anyway. I might be over-pressurising the system and getting unstable performance from the flatulence.

Or, it might be the chrono. The one at the shop is on the fritz, and sometimes it gives me readings in the 700fps range. Never had it spike at a field's chrono like that though.

 

[the3rdeye88]

It's not the chrono. One day your BB will go clean through someone.

 

[Libelle]

I only ever get that kind of reading on that chrono though, and the spring should not be capable of that amount of force. I am told it will give wonky readings on known guns.

But, cool. My dark lord demands blood sacrifice.

 

[Libelle]

Since we are on the topic of it, what might cause the gun to peak so high?

 

[Cheese Man]

A buildup of pressure (so a jam until the pressure reached critical levels), possibly a mislabeled spring, maybe an inconsistent leak?

 

[Libelle]

Well, a recent batch of SHS springs seems to be under rated. Still, we only get this sort of reading with this chrono.

The piston is very sealed. But the peaks, it is very consistent (+-10 or 15 or so) for an AEG as it is.

What would indicate this jamming and building of pressure?

We chrono with the hopup open.

 

[Cheese Man]

I can't tell you, sorry. I never have seen this outside of a chrono malfunction or, once, a rifle built to 700 fps but that had terrible airseal 99% of the time. That 1%, it chronoed to its real fps value.