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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys! Currently I'm using an 11.1v 2000mah Matrix (yeah, yeah I know) LiPO battery. I'm also running a Gate Merf 3.2 Mosfet, wired to a V7 gearbox in advanced mode. So. Starting off, when I plugged the mosfet up to the battery and pulled the trigger, nothing happened, programming button worked fine however. I have it set for the 11.1v, so the auto shutoff isn't the problem. It recently started working though. Programmining et. all working great, fired a few shots and readjusted the motor height. All good. Then more problems. I hook up the LiPO again, and pull the trigger. Nothing. I open the gun up and check the wiring. Everything's good. Small tear in the motor wires. Patched it with electrical tape. Check the fuse. 25A Fuse blown. What the... Anyways. I hooked up my last spare fuse (also 25A), and try again, thinking that maybe it just blew after prolonged use. Fuse blows again after hooking aup the LiPO. WHAT? Am I just looking at a batter problem? Power surges from the. 11.1 2000 mah? Also, whe re do I buy more fuses? They're that rare small size (I want to say 19mm, not sure)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
All right, in answer to your questions, I recently downgraded to an m115 spring, so no problems there. I have double-checked the wiring and all appears correctly wired. The MOSFET responds, and allows electricity through it, so that's not the problem. Should I simply replace my wiring with a new low-resistance harness? I'm not sure about the battery's wiring since I have almost no experience with LiPOs. However, from what I can see everything appears fine. No looseness in the battery wires, Deans ending appears soldered on correctly. Definently allowing energy through. Thanks for the help!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
In short, everything appears correct. However, energy is somehow not making it to the motor, so the gun will not shoot.
 

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Have you tried bypassing the fuse? Also are any of your wires pinched, have any exposed wire, are the connectors touching anything metal other then what it is supposed to?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hmmmmm. I have not tried bypassing the fuse as I am afraid the LiPO is sending power surges down the wires. Will check and see if it is doing that. There are no pinched wires, and the connectors are touching only what they are supposed to be. However, there was a small tear in the insulation on one of the wires. I patched that with some electrical tape.
 

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Check your connections with an ohm meter, if you have one. And not just end to end on the wires, but also against the gearbox/receiver itself.

Replace the wire with the torn insulation. Electrical tape is a band-aid, not a solution. In the process, make sure all your connections are isolated with shrink tube.

As Killer suggested, test your motor. A simple momentary switch between a battery and the motor wires can even let you know if the motor is working inside the gun if you have the minor bits sitting around to make a test harness.

Where in the wiring harness do you currently have the fuse? Before the MOSFET or after? Either way, the MERF has an internal resetting fuse so you can remove the extra one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The patch was after the fuse. Connections are wrapped with heat shrink. The fuse is after the mosfet. Not sure what an ohm meter is. Have not tested the motor yet, will do that as soon as I can. I have some extra wiring from and old CYMA M14 that I cannibalized laying around. I will transplant it before I test the motor.
 

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An ohm meter is also called a multimeter and they are used for measuring or detecting electrical connections. You can get basic ones that will serve your purpose fairly cheap.

This particular one can be found in the HF free coupons if you get them: Digital Multimeter - Save on this 7 Function Digital Multimeter

Wire is also cheap. Some 16ga or 14ga won't set you back much and will likely be a better quality than the CYMA cheapo wire. The silicone jacketed stuff is quite lovely.

Are you soldering your connections? Or just twisting then covered in heat shrink?
 

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Does it work ok if you use anything other than the 11.1 battery? Epdm (I think) coated wire is the better stuff to use. the coating is tougher that silicone and the wore holds its shape. What happens if you remove the motor from the cage/grip connect it up with no load and pull the trigger. Does the motor spin? It should spin for a moment then the mosfet may cut it out.
I had a problem with a mosfet on a m14 it would work fine put of the body once installed a wire was moving and moving the motor cage slightly, this in turn was jamming the gearbox. It took 4 or 5 mosfet until I worked out what was causing it. I have a home made one now that works a treat :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Sorry for the late update, been busy. In answer to your questions and comments: the connections are soldered, motor is working, I have removed the mechanics of the gun from the body, still no success, tried with two new fuses and an 8.4v with deans adapter. Nothing happening... still. Thank you for your help!
 

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Which way did you wire the signal wire to the trigger? single point or double point? Gate has two ways to do this. I've had issue as you are describing, it was a wiring issue that prevented it from working. Also lose the extra fuse not needed with the 3.2
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I am currently using the double-point wiring method. According to the Evike tech department, there is a short there. I don't buy that. Probably going to do what Plazmaburn suggested and get some nice high-quality wiring to the motor. If that dosen't solve my problem, I'll try replacing the signal wires as well. Thank you for your help!
 

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Removing the fuse is a good idea. Same with the new wiring (I don't recall saying that but ok, not going to argue with it). Also make sure your soldering is good. If its not, it will play havoc with your electrics.
 
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