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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm currently working on picking out the parts. Now, i've gotten a good idea of brands, but I need opinions.

Currently looking at:
SHS AEG (Helical) Gears 27:1 (Torque Set)
SHS High Torque Motor
SHS V2 Selector Plate
PDI 260% AEG Spring (Assuming it allows me to shoot ~520 FPS)
Modify V2 Cylinder Head
Stock Cylinder (Polished)
Systema Area 1000 V2 Spring Guide
SHS Shims
SHS Cut off lever V2
Systema 1000 Tappet Plate
Promethesus Hard (Helical) Piston
Not sure on piston head, need help there.

Looking for a solid DMR gearbox, not sure there. I'm looking at a Raptor Mosfet or something a long those lines.

Opinions? I understand SHS is a solid brand, so I did not hesitate to overlook them.
 

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You should purchase a Burst wizard for it. If you didn't know already, it allows you to have bursts of 1- 7. And it's only $30.

Other than that It sounds good, but I would buy a back-up cylinder. Just in case
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks guys. I finally made a successful list by the sounds of it, expect for a few things, but hey, can't be 100% right and asking for suggestions ;) Thanks guys. I'll look into the burst wizard, where can you pick them up? I'll go google it and let you know if I can't find it.

***EDIT*** Which BW do you suggest? I found 3 :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
My question with the king kong is it says you hold the trigger to adjust (tap it 3 times) if i'm going to send three 3 round bursts down range, won't it outsmart me and want to change my settings?
 

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The Burst Wizards aren't really suitable Fets. You shouldn't skimp on shims and helical gears are a real pain in the ass to shim. In addition, the SHS HT motor will be torquey enough to pull that spring on 18:1s. The Raptor's are a little fancy for me, but neither of them allow PnP with a PWD Board which is the ultimate fail safe for lipos. For cylinder and piston heads I like ARS products. Lonex is also a very recommended brand if you want to take a look at those.
 

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Well, Personally, I would get 18:1 ratio gears instead of the torque gears. The motor you are using will be plenty strong enough to handle those gears. Plus your trigger response will be much faster.

I don't see a reason to replace the selector plate, tappet plate, or ARL unless they are broken. The stock parts should hold up plenty well enough.

And, because the 18:1 gears are full teeth gears, I would pick up any of the SHS pistons, they are all very cheap and very strong.

I love my Modify Polycarb Piston head. It is very strong and provides Excellent air seal for me.

I'm also willing to bet you'll need an air nozzle. Personally, I love Prometheus nozzles, but they get a little pricy. As long as the air nozzle has an o-ring though, that's all you need from it.

And don't forget that it's not the parts you put in a gearbox that makes it special, it's how you install them that's important. Tuning mods such as shimming, tappet plate sanding, teflon where it needs to go, that will really turn your gearbox into a solid DMR gearbox
 

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Here is my review of the BW KK, I have been involved in the beta versions of these for a long time. They are awsome, While the video review is only on the basic features the dmr / sniper mode works very well. I would also recommend it for all DMRs, its only shortcoming is if you do not hardwire it in and inly use the plug and play option. It is a perfectly "suitable fet" this is coming from someone with a lot of years of experience dealing with computerized mosfets
 

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newbie said:

Here is my review of the BW KK, I have been involved in the beta versions of these for a long time. They are awsome, While the video review is only on the basic features the dmr / sniper mode works very well. I would also recommend it for all DMRs, its only shortcoming is if you do not hardwire it in and inly use the plug and play option. It is a perfectly "suitable fet" this is coming from someone with a lot of years of experience dealing with computerized mosfets
I'd like to see the technical specs of it if your so confident.
 

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metallicafatcat said:
newbie said:

Here is my review of the BW KK, I have been involved in the beta versions of these for a long time. They are awsome, While the video review is only on the basic features the dmr / sniper mode works very well. I would also recommend it for all DMRs, its only shortcoming is if you do not hardwire it in and inly use the plug and play option. It is a perfectly "suitable fet" this is coming from someone with a lot of years of experience dealing with computerized mosfets
I'd like to see the technical specs of it if your so confident.
It uses the IRF1324S-7 Mosfet, technical specs on it can be found here http://parts.digikey.com/1/parts/1019543-mosfet-n-ch-24v-429a-d2pak-7-irf1324s-7ppbf.html the rest of the details on it can be found at the burst wizard mainpage http://www.aegwizard.com/Home_Page.php

The avacado is a copy of the burst wizard design, but they arent for sale yet so I have not actually played around with them yet. The burst wizard has the king kong light which has all the same features as the avacado except it can be hardwired into the gun, and has some additional goodies. It is slightly different in its programming and functions that the king kong.

IMO the KK is the best because it has a sniper mode. You can set it to single shot only, set a delay between fires, program the length of time of the delay, and program a shot count that simulates a magazine change.
 

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I looked at it and it still doesn't impress me. He can claim all of that stuff, but without some massive programming and algorithims, you need sensors to garuntee it 100%. The Lipo protection worries me, because it's not taking it from the tap. How hard does the maker test them? Your still stuck on the stupid block mechanism unless you end up soldering it directly and at that point, a different Fet would've come into play. Maybe for someone with little technical skill I could see, but I bet Hoggie is past that level.
 

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starfolder said:
Well, Personally, I would get 18:1 ratio gears instead of the torque gears. The motor you are using will be plenty strong enough to handle those gears. Plus your trigger response will be much faster.

I don't see a reason to replace the selector plate, tappet plate, or ARL unless they are broken. The stock parts should hold up plenty well enough.

And, because the 18:1 gears are full teeth gears, I would pick up any of the SHS pistons, they are all very cheap and very strong.

I love my Modify Polycarb Piston head. It is very strong and provides Excellent air seal for me.

I'm also willing to bet you'll need an air nozzle. Personally, I love Prometheus nozzles, but they get a little pricy. As long as the air nozzle has an o-ring though, that's all you need from it.

And don't forget that it's not the parts you put in a gearbox that makes it special, it's how you install them that's important. Tuning mods such as shimming, tappet plate sanding, teflon where it needs to go, that will really turn your gearbox into a solid DMR gearbox
First things first listen to the guy above, then deal with the other stuff. - You'll know what I mean if you've seen my DMR.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
metallicafatcat said:
I looked at it and it still doesn't impress me. He can claim all of that stuff, but without some massive programming and algorithims, you need sensors to garuntee it 100%. The Lipo protection worries me, because it's not taking it from the tap. How hard does the maker test them? Your still stuck on the stupid block mechanism unless you end up soldering it directly and at that point, a different Fet would've come into play. Maybe for someone with little technical skill I could see, but I bet Hoggie is past that level.
Still working on my soddering skills, but, i've wired stuff to deans and stuff. I'll let you guys make the call on the fets. Not sure what to do there.
 
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