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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I want to start off by saying that I have no earthly idea of what I am doing...

  1. I bought a KART
  2. I'm electrical intolerant
Yet, even after being proud of being battery free, I am going to attempt an M1A/M14 DMR build in an AEG platform. Why?? Because KART made an M1A/M14 utilizing the unique JAE stock. I know, I Know...here we go again.

The plan: Is to stuff a CYMA SOCOM into the KART JAE stock. Sounds simple right... Although the KART internals are supposed to be in great shape on the rifle I am getting, they are junk, and will not be used.

The rifle will be completely rebuilt. Every screw, every wire will be upgraded/replaced. Even though I am not a big fan of upgrades, I will add what I can so that this build foots the bill as a dependable DMR.

More as I know it; right now I am waiting for a pyapal payment to be sent for the KART rifle.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I will be starting with a new CYMA SOCOM M14, then will spend a couple hundred as needed to upgrade the barrel, hop-up, motor, gears and piston... not all at once, but gradually as I sell off other unused items to fund the project.

I will look at a possible mosfet and lipo upgrade as well, but I have not reached that point in my thought pattern yet.

Again, I'm not sure what I am doing, so this will be as much a research project as it is a rebuild project... it will take me a while to complete... and it should be sweet!!
 

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Damn I was going to say to take out the 509 prome in your SPR that's in the commerce section, but it needs m14 cuts on it. I don't think they come with the m14 hop up cuts.

I'll list what I would use for parts below.

shs v7 gears
Lonex v7 cylinder head
SHS full cylinder plated alum
SHS alum piston head
Prome hard piston for m14
lonex v7 spring guide
sorbo pad
total: $107 not including shipping

Granted don't take these parts as gospel, but these are the parts I would use if I were to replace all of the internals in an m14.

Things I did not list are:
m14 hop up

inner barrel

spring (buy a quality spring. Prometheus most likely)

air nozzle (CYMA m14s use non standard air nozzles so you need to measure it to find one that is the size you need.)

bushings (use the ones in the gun. I'm unsure what size they are stock, but as long as they're bushings and not bearings they'll do fine.)

wiring/mosfet (I recommend you do this ACM guns usually have cheap wiring.)

short type motor (I'm at a loss at what type you should use because I have no idea what FPS you want to run at and because the v7 gears have a slightly higher ratio then usual 18:1 gears.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That is quite the laundry list. My head is swimming this morning as I try to research some history on upgrading the CYMA M14. Luckily, from what I have read, the CYMA is nearly a direct replacement fit for the KART. There might be some minor fit and trims, but I should be able to fit the SOCOM short barrel right in the JAE stock.

Without both rifle in hand, I do not have a clear path forward... but that should right itslf soon enough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If not for bad luck, I do not velieve I would have any luck at all... the purchase of a used KART M14 with the JAE stock has gone south... the seller realised some key parts to the rifle were missing, so he has agreed to refund my money... this thread is officially closed...

I feel so :lame: now for starting the thread without a platform in hand... sorry.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I was hoping to hit between 400 and 450 fps, but could live with 380 as long as it shot straight with no fliers.
 

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Right, let me see.

I would try a:
ported piston head;
any piston with metal teeth at least at the end of the stroke
metal bushings if you do not have them
stock 18:1 gear set
high torque motor
non-linear spring
Mosfet and lipo
tight-bore of your choice.

PS All this presumes you are trying to 450, which I think you should do.

For bucking, I have had luck with the Mad Bull Shark bucking and spacer, and I and my mechanic have been having good luck with the R.E.A.P.S. Rhop-like thing (though other people sell and fit them too.)

For the pneumatics I have had no need to do fancy things. With mine (m170 spring, 550ish fps) the most clever thing we did was run the gearbox free of a piston for about half an hour to let it stress-harden itself all the gears after all the shims and bushings were in. If it is a full stroke, there is no need for a bore-up kit. The non linear spring will kept easy the load on the gearbox.

Here, the goal is to let the motor bear the load and use the high voltage of a lipo, leaving no need for high torque gears, which will just slow down triger responce. A mosfet is a must for this setup, as it greatly reduces the strain on the electrical and makes for a more efficient battery pull. Intuition tells me a 7.4 lipo should work, since I can pull my spring on it with a mosfet, albeit sluggishly.

Prometheus is probably the best maker of barrels, but Mad Bull's Python's do well, though, only in the second version, not the first. 6.03mm is as tight as it needs to be.

Also remember the Teflon tape mod on the bucking and to stabalise the inner barrel with more Teflon tape. It is needed for accuracy.
 
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