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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I finally got the upgrade parts for the m24, but now I ran into some trouble.

I feel like there is a grinding sound when I go to push the bolt handle forward. I checked all screw holes for burs and deburred the cylinder set itself. I'm not sure where the grinding sound is coming from.

Second, what is the CA upgrade kit actually supposed to make the gun shoot at? I feel like the bolt pull on the gun is harder then a 500fps gun should be.

Edit: on a slightly unrelated note does anyone know if the scope base on the vsr-10 is the same as the m24?
As in the distance between the holes.
 

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The Advanced Cylinder Kit supposed to produce 500fps.
I haven't measured mine cause the chrono I have doesn't want to function properly!

And same here the bolt pull is harder than the 500 fps I've tested so far!

Lube the exterior of the cylinder and check to see if there are any scratches in the receiver.


Wolf
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I just chronoed the gun and it's putting out 580fps on .2g bbs (3.14 joules). I'm probably going to cut coils to drop it to exactly 500fps if I can't find where the extra resistance is coming from.

I'm going to polish the cylinder with scotch brite in a few days as well to see if that helps any more.
If that doesn't work I'll polish the inside of the receiver.

I have noticed scuffs on the top of the cylinder so there is extra rubbing there. I checked the screws and they aren't the problem. It's got to be a malformation on the receiver but where exactly that is I have no idea.
 

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Just reiterating to make sure, but the rough bolt push occurs only when pushing forward yes?

If so, the issue may be within the cylinder such as the piston rubbing against the internal cylinder walls. And this in turn can cause the cylinder to push against the receiver if there is enough space between the two.

Does the issue still exist when you downgrade the spring?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
The stock cylinder has the same scuffs.
I can't tell you if it only occurs one direction as this is the first time that its been at 500+.
I would assume both directions which is why I found the bolt pull to be so bad.

EDIT: I now know that it is scraping both directions.
 

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I've never actually used Loctite on my spring guide so I don't know how much easier it is to pull back when it's fully secure.

So, does it relatively feel like 10x easier to pull back? If so, I'm heading to the hardware store tomorrow :yup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The advanced cylinder kit's spring guide is of a one piece design so I don't think that it is the problem. I do have a problem with the bolt handle unscrewing itself over a few shots which I think may contribute to the problem.

An update though is that the problem randomly went away. I cycled the gun several times after I had taken it apart to check the spring guide and the bolt return was fixed.
That makes me think that the Sear or something inside the cylinder was a contributing factor to the cycling issue or if there was a bur on the receiver that it finally went away. I kind of want to drop the trigger system out again and pull the cylinder to see if it comes back. I didn't fix the problem and I really don't want it to randomly come back in the middle of a game.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
I found out why the screw keeps coming out.

Take your dremel and grind the end cap down where it comes in contact with the lip on the handle. It turns out the end cap was to long and causing to much friction so when you went to go pull the handle up it would unscrew the screw. I also did away with the ball bearings and took a few burlap strands and put them between the handle and endcap. It added enough resistance that I could do away with the ball bearings and the handle wouldn't flop around.

EDIT: I suggest you grind the end cap slowly so you don't grind to much off and get a sloppy bolt handle.

I can do a video if you don't get what I'm saying.
 
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