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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Recently Airtech came out with a weird little shim thing for the MAXX M series chambers which slips onto the arm housing and centers the chamber in the outer barrel, but I didn't feel like buying a $10 piece of plastic the size of a BB so I ended up making my own out of a plastic playing card and some Loctite 401, and got likely a better result.
I combined this with wrapping thin Scotch tape on the 11.something mm cylindrical part of the chamber to 13.31mm for the 13.33mm inner barrel, making vertical and horizontal stability very good, plus the plastic shims which locked the very solid chamber even more solidly in place.
I ended up stoning the front threaded face of my upper reciever as well, to get more contact on my outer barrel, and I wrapped 3 layers of thin Teflon tape on the tapered part of my outer barrel to help with an already nonexistant wobble.
The last accuracy thing I did was to wrap 2 bands of thick Telfon tape on the inner barrel making an airtight seal in the outer barrel and centering the inner barel extremely well, with the last 10 inches of the 18 inch inner barel being free floating in my 33mm outer barrel.

This all resulted in spending 6 hours fiddling with shit, and a very very stable feeling gun with pretty dang good accuracy plus bettter FPS consistency, and somehow less air being used allowing me to drop a couple PSI off my reg.

For sound stuff I filled every spot I could with special foam and any areas such as the cylinder area, hop chamber area, and solenoid valves with layers of Dynamat extreme.
I also put a layer of Dynamat on the inner face of my ejection port cover to aid in sound.

This plus the accuracy stuff helped with sound quite noticeably which allowed me to remove a segment from my suppressor, reducing weight and length which is quite nice.

All in all I would recommend either buying the TCU or making one similar, and just try shimming every single thing that you possibly can.

As for the gun,
CYMA Platinum 14.5
Polarstar F2
REVO Kit
Airsoft Philosopher 475X6.04 barrel+R-hop
Maxx ME Pro Christmas edition(snowflakes add 5 FPS)
Modify flat bucking
PRPE FAT outer barrel
PRPE brass front pin
Nov SSX can+Calmflex F2'

@1tonne @Plazmaburn @whalesmash
 

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G&G made a similar thing for some of their CM16's to centre the hopup. I liked the idea but did not find any accuracy advantage. Though, just because I did not see any improvement on accuracy, does not mean it is not there.
What I find to me most important is that the hopup has to be pushed hard into the GB. This means no movement resulting in a more stable fps. (a lot of hopups can move back and forwards a little) Sometimes I replace the spring at the front of the hopup with a harder one or I shim the hopup backwards towards the GB. The very edge of the hopup should fit into the round hole on the GB making the hopup centred.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
When I get a chance I'm going to do a bunch of careful measurements, then solder or epoxy on a spacer to the inner barrel that's a snug fit in the outer barrel that completely replaces the spring.
Or I'll do that but just make it a firm slide on the inner barrel so I can shave it down bit by bit if I have to.
The thing with my setup is that the engine/nozzle is affixed to the hop chamber making that a little silly, but I'm sure it would provide at least something, or you could add it to your mod list lol.
In anything but the REVO kit it's a must have for sure since the hop chamber is not attached to the nozzle or whatever, making it quite important.
I believe that Airtech is also selling that kit lol, which is just a pinch of O-rings.
For $6 it's definitely not worth it for 10 O-rings, but I guess that if you're so lazy that you can't add it to a hardware store trip then it's an option.
 
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