[Dimitri MdP]

Curving can be caused by a lot of things, but when it's always to the same side 90% of the times is the bucking not coming straight down but somewhat tilted.

Easiest way to check is disassemble the gun and see through the chamber and barrel setup.

Maybe it's something miss alligned there. Are you using the ML concave nub ("hop tensioner"), or just the regular, cylindrical one?

 

[ElCoco]

I am using the concave nub, however I have changed buckings multiple times and it still curves, thus, I think it might be caused by the uneven "bridge" left over after sanding the barrel's window.

 

[Elexxior]

Hi,

I have a question as well.

At the moment I've upgraded my VSR10 with the following:

ML 428 Crazy Jet inner barrel
ML Diamond Monster 60* bucking
AA M130 Spring
AA Cylinder kit
AA 90* Triggerbox
AA 90* Piston

As you can see, an upgraded hopup chamber (or arm+nub) is still missing, which is required for the ML bucking, as stated earlier in this topic. This is because one of the idiot retailers at the shop here in NL tightened up the front screw of the scope rail too much, causing a bump on the inside of the outer barrel... As a result, I am now unable to remove (and thus upgrade) the chamber... Yeah, pretty unfortunate indeed...

However, This doesnt mean I can't play or shoot. The only thing that is truly missing is a concave nub for the ML bucking, so at the moment the stock VSR arm is pressurizing the ML bucking.

While waiting for the outer barrel fix (the earlier mentioned idiots are on holiday... yeah, I know...), I still want to continue playing with this setup untill they're back. So my question is: Will playing like this damage the bucking? I can imagine that the crappy hop-up arm the comes with the stock VSR chamber might ruin the bucking because of crappy pressure consistancy when shooting 400-500 fps...

Also: What is your opinion on the ML barrel in combination with the rest of my setup? Do I have the right cylinder:barrel ratio? Any recommendations?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Gorz]

thanks for your usefull post, I have ordered the maple leaf tensioner, but you seem to say it's not an R-hop ? is it very much different ?

I do not intend to change my hopup bucking yet (a nineball), I understand that you think it's less effective with a standard shaped bucking because it's hard and I would need more pressure, but it still should be better isn't it ? or do you really disagree with such a combination ?

 

[TheRiddler]

I am currently running an AA hop up chamber in my bar 10 with a Maple Leaf Diamond 70 degree bucking and the concave nub. I am pleased with the accuracy of my shots, but I found out that when I pick up my gun to shoot again after not shooting for at least a few hours, my initial shots are very high compared to where it was sighted in before even though nothing was changed. The shots do not look overhopped, but just shoot significantly higher than before. After a little bit of use, the shots start to settle down. Does anybody else have this problem? What could be the issue and can it be solved? Should I just fire a bunch of cheap .2s to warm up before games?

 

[Dimitri MdP]

a loose scope? really, if it was anything hop related you'd see overhop.

 

[Elexxior]

I found out that when I pick up my gun to shoot again after not shooting for at least a few hours, my initial shots are very high compared to where it was sighted in before even though nothing was changed. The shots do not look overhopped, but just shoot significantly higher than before. After a little bit of use, the shots start to settle down. Does anybody else have this problem? What could be the issue and can it be solved? Should I just fire a bunch of cheap .2s to warm up before games?

Strangely enough, I have the exact same issue with my VSR. Also AA chamber with concave nub and 60* maple leaf bucking.

Anyone who could spare some advice or technical info on this matter?

 

[Falken]

Maybe, just maybe, the nub and bucking rest in a lower position after a long time without shooting it and after some shoots somehow the nub gets a bit squeezed up and stays there, so it applies less pressure to the bucking than before.

It could be something related to the rubber warming up as well, I don't know how that would work.

 

[Reliku]

Well, warm rubbers perform differently compared to cold rubbers... but I've never seen it have such a huge effect :shrug:

 

[SwagDaddyMooney]

So my concave nub broke and I don't feel like buying a new one (mainly because the shipping for such a little thing is $20), that being said, I was wondering if a flat hop bucking would work nearly as good, or if Skeee's nubs would be work just as good? (https://www.shapeways.com/product/W...cave-only?optionId=63507887&li=more-from-shop) Or should I just suck it up and buy another concave nub...?

Thanks.

 

[Mattyboyzhere]

I also would like to know how successful is Skeees nub in comparison to the standard concave hopup nub.

 

[bjorn]

Tried it with CJ barrel, AA chamber and ML 60 Autobot bucking. Got some weird shots, went back to ML concave nub and seemed better. Just tried few test shots. Will try Skees nub with other rifle builds in near future again and see the results. I think it will work very well with extended R-hop since the contact area is far superior to a standard nub.

 

[plasticnoob]

a loose scope? really, if it was anything hop related you'd see overhop.

That is what happen to me on my first day last weekend. Terrible loose scope mount and rail, it was wobbling so bad on the AA receiver with the JG rail, my shots kept getting off. I had to shim it with some SHS shims I had on hand and it fixed the problem.:cheers: I posted it on my airsoft FB page, just a few little shims over top the receiver holes.

 

[theosarr]

Hello to everybody,

It seems that something very strange is happening with my setup...
I am using an AA unabridged inner barrel with ML Autobot 70 degree bucking
with ML Omega concave nub in a AA hopup chamber... Let's say that my results are far from everybody else! Sometimes it shoots like a dream but with severe flyers! And when I say
severe I mean severe! I checked everything I could think of... Cleaned the barrel, tested various brands of .4s and .43s..., shimmed the hopup arm... checked the inner barrel... added more spacers... To say I am in the dark is an understatement! So I was wondering if someone
had a similar experience and how he solved it!

Thanks in advance!

 

[bjorn]

Are you using a silencer with foam? Maybe there is debris inside that sometimes catches the bb. Have you tried another bucking for reference? Maybe it has some small defect.

EDIT: what does chrono say? Is it constant on every shot?

 

[theosarr]

Are you using a silencer with foam? Maybe there is debris inside that sometimes catches the bb. Have you tried another bucking for reference? Maybe it has some small defect.

EDIT: what does chrono say? Is it constant on every shot?

Yes in fact I am... But its a JG G-Spec one with perforated plastic tube inside! I tried using
a madbull, TM and a falcon one with mixed results... Used ones mind you!
My fps are 545 (+/- 9fps).

 

[1tonne]

Try it without the silencer and see how it goes. You may just need to drill out the end of the silencer a millimetre or so.

 

[theosarr]

Thanks for you quick answer! I already have, my inner barrel is a 430mm one and it extends half way into the silencer! This is why I am so confused! I am not the best builder out there but every other rifle I built was at least usable to an extend! This is at best unreliable to play!

P.S. Ooooh the end... I'll try to enlarge the exit hole! Thanks!

 

[Reliku]

Check the suppressor exit hole yeah.

Also check and make sure you're not using any faulty parts, sometimes you just get a lemon bucking from the factory for example.

 

[theosarr]

I believe that with your help I located the issue! The perforated tube in the silencer had extremely poor tolerances at the end cap so everytime I fired the inner plastic tube was seated in a random position causing a shift at the point of impact... It was also perforated at a 90/180 degree fashion only so I cannot imagine the dynamics in play there! Long story short I removed the guts from the silencer and everything seems to be ok. Mind you that the flyers were so random and with extreme spread that I couldnt pin point the problem at the business end of the rifle. The funny part is that no marks of bbs hitting or scraping anything were visible...