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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Everyone will tell you that HPA is the only way for the gas propelled rifle to work efficiently. What with regulators, gages, tanks, hoses and fittings... the sniper player can truly become one with his rifle as they become attached (literally).

So everyone says that HPA is the way... fair enough, what is the most efficient method to loading out an HPA system, so that:

1) You are not hindered by the extra attachments

2) Not bogged down with the added weight of the extra attachments

3) Will incur little if any reload down time

essentially, I want to know the most efficient methods and load-out in order to support an HPA rig efficiently and effectively.

Here is the question many don't answer: Do you have the specifics on your equipment that you can share (i.e. part numbers and places to buy)?

I would love to see a sticky with a compilation of best HPA load outs. Because telling me I need to do it is not enough, if I am not in the know of what I need to do it with.
 

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Whats up Dragon?

But, what replica were you thinking off? Are you going to use a ghillie suit?

This is a build thread from my KJW M700 which might help answer some basic questions. http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/phpBB/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=766
I also built a ARES AW-338 for external air which is explained in less detail some where around here too.

1) You are not hindered by the extra attachments
Use a small 13ci 3000PSI ninja tank to cut size. This tank is useless for about everything else but perfect for bolt action rifles. Use a coiled hose after your second regulator. Tap your mag on the opposite side of your strong hand and use a swivel 90 to allow a low ground clearance a ease of movement. The only other way is to use 12g CO2 capsules and mount the external rig under a check rest. But then you are using CO2. Like this http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u166/streetkill23/P1010653.jpg

2) Not bogged down with the added weight of the extra attachments
I use a battle belt and a ton of extra gear due to my support role play style (M60) even if I'm spotting. But, you can cut this down to a a pouch at your lower back for the tank and regs. I have a extra large ghillie suit to help with this. http://www.countycomm.com/hydrant.htm

3) Will incur little if any reload down time
The HPA system will only hinder your reload time unless the replica uses stripper clips like the ARES AW338 or you don't intend on having multiple mags for a Tanaka which in that case reload times stay the same. I will stick with these two names since everything is cloned off of these two replicas to the most part. To change a mag you'll need to do as normal plus reconnect the external air line to the new mag. This presents a couple problems. If you do not have valved QD fittings on both sides you will hopefully only purge your mag which mags a reasonably load "POP!" sound. Using valved QD fittings on both sides cost more but also allows you to still use propane as long as you still have your fill valve and obviously there will be no pop sound.

I can help with part numbers but I think I have them in my KJW or ARES thread. If I don't I can help you make one.

The most efficient external loadout has yet to come to market. http://www.youtube.com/user/PolarStarAirsoft This in a semi-only sniper role will allow you to use mid caps and still retain any muscle memory you have on a stoner system. At an estimated $400 its not cheap but you can let your mind wonder coming up with other applications for this. I am assuming you have an M4 though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hey mateba,

My plan, which may not float so well, is to take two scrapyard WELL G96 units and make one working rifle. I purchased a unit the middle of last year, and the only problem was, it was missing the bolt. I just purchased another unit yesterday, and it has a bolt and spare magazine, so I decided to take on another winter project.

To that, I will add that I have a new 3000psi scuba tank as a souce for refills (because I own a PCP rifle), and thought that maybe I should look into HPA for this build. But I admit, I dislike the notion of being tethered to my rifle, but I like the benefits the HPA has to offer. So I figured there has to be a happy medium that will allow me to benefit from HPA, without being drug down by the extra equipment and weight penalty. The G96 clone is going to be heavy enough as it is.

Thanks for the link, I will read it over my lunch break.
 

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Wow a lot of questions there, well for one the heavist part of a hpa set up is the tank. The smallest tank you can get is one of these; http://www.discountpaintball.com/Ninja-P....ank_p_538.html . It is the smallest paintball HPA tank there is on the market today. But if you want even smaller you can always use a co2 rig like this one here; http://palmer-pursuit.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=40&products_id=185 . Now that co2 quick change will go were the HPA tank would go instead.

Ok as for two, I have just taped one of my tanaka mags to run HPA, and let me tell you the little extra wight is worth the results. The only problem I have found is how to mount the tank its self to my body, I found that a dump pouch works perfect for holding it until I go in to a prone crawl and it snags on every little twig there is. More on this if I find a better suited pouch for it, you may be able to use one of these if you can get it all to fit; http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=28_101_297&products_id=6877 .

As for three I have found this to be the harder problem to solve. What I would like to do is to tap 2-3 mags and have a on/off valve at the mag it self so only the air in the hose is lost, also the mag would retain 2-3 shoots with the air in it. That would solve the problem, but as of right now, I carry a speed loader with the nib attachment. It takes about 2-3 plunges to fill a small tanaka mag.

Here is my set up, I am currently using some left over paintball stuff (Yes I paintball, and I am damn good at it, I even have a sponsor). I have a HPA tank running in to a on/off asa, the to the regulator (which I have at about 80-90 psi giving me around 300 feet of range). From the regulator I have it connected to a quick disconnect hose that goes straight to the mag.

Here are some more links for you;
-For a how to guide this is the best I have read- http://www.airsoftforum.com/board/Constructing-Air-Rig-56-t127562.html

- Video how to(pretty good)
-http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e1GBPXFBUzc&feature=related (part one)
-http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fFGfNQRdc7I&feature=related (part two)

-For all you need I would use this online store- http://palmer-pursuit.com/cart/
-Good set up to use- http://palmer-pursuit.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8_9_28&products_id=181 . That is every thing you need after the tank to the mag( reg, tank asa, and remote hose). Also spend the extra ten bucks to get the 0-200psi spring kit that is also a selection lower in the page.
-I would also get this gauge for the reg, make sure to get the 0-300psi Not the 0-100psi other wise you will have a broken gauge very quickly; http://palmer-pursuit.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_15&products_id=70
 

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mateba said:
I edited my first post, please review. Mods if you want to delete this reply in a day or two, please by all means.
XD man you beat me to posting it, must have been writing my stuff as you did yours lol.


And yes when you disconnect from the mag it is a very loud pop. I will add a pic if I can to show my set up.
 

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XD, yeah replies to these post take time. I wish we could sticky a external air rig post. Not a fan of ASA On/off fittings in comparison to M&F valved QDs.

Without buying them used you have a few options. And guess what, they are not cheap. I look at them as a nice battery charger and batteries. You can clean your PC out with it too if that makes you feel better. :)

Palmer Pursuits make a very simple air rig. I think they leave a lot to be desired especially for us. They are the cheapest at $145+S&H
http://palmer-pursuit.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=75&products_id=883

Now, I think these are the best buy as far as air rigs go. I would change the fittings out to the valved ones below but I'll include the parts needed to make an air rig the is sniper specific. By this I mean, its setup to tune your PSI between two regs the easiest. $206 shipped
http://classicairsoft.org/forum/showthread.php?9002-WTS-Pre-assembled-dual-reg-gas-rigs

This is the rest of the fittings for the mag and the valved QD fittings
http://www.mcmaster.com/#quick-disconnect-tube-couplings/=b1ma5s
5478K221 1/8 npt male valved QD FEMALE
5478K411 1/8 npt male valved QD MALE
5779K129 x2 1/8 npt female to 1/4" push to connect
5779K151 1/8 npt swivel 90 to 1/4" PTC

Complete air rig from scratch w/ dual reg w/ hi-viz guages and valved M&F QDs
Palmer Pursuits 200PSI output female stabilizer
http://palmer-pursuit.com/cart/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=75&products_id=824
AR20 mini 1/8 npt regulator
http://www.poweraire.com/modular-regulator-ar20-p-2553.html
5478K221 1/8 npt male valved QD FEMALE
5478K411 1/8 npt male valved QD MALE
5779K129 x2 1/8 npt female to 1/4" push to connect
5779K151 x2 1/8 npt swivel 90 to 1/4" PTC
5548K84 25' of 1/4" nylon tubing
3850K35 2x 0-160PSI liquid filled gauge with 2PSI increments
5040K431 1/4" self-retracting hose
5779K108 x2 1/8 npt male to 1/4" PTC (using 2 more swivel 90s here would be more flexible if you want, but you don't need both)
8288A51 1/8-3/4" tube cutter
http://www.mcmaster.com/#quick-disconnect-tube-couplings/=b1ma5s

~116+15+89 ~$220+S&H for a purpose built air rig

Take the palmers and install a gauge and a male or swivel PTC. Add whatever length 1/4 hose. Take AR20 reg install guage and male or swivel PTC. Add whatever length hose or coil. Take female PTC and install QDs. Tap mag and install swivel and add length of 1/4" hose. Connect QDs to hose and done. You'll need a small adjustable wrench and allens for the fittings. You'll need a 1/8 npt tap and an 11/32 pilot bit to tap your mag you can get those at mcmastercarr too. You can pick up 10w to 20w 100% silicone oil at any RC hobby shop. They call it shock oil but its the best to use for airsoft with lubricated gas. Pickup an eye dropper and use very small amounts.
 

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I have updated the post above at least a half a dozen times. Even with all that, if your replica is not sealed off its going to leak and your shot to shot consistency will suffer. Once you get all the quirks out though you'll have a consistent rifle that can shoot whatever velocity you want, a more realistic bolt action and you can short stroke the bolt for even faster follow ups. I stayed in the neighborhood of 70-80PSI with my KJW and 100PSI with my ARES. I use 100-110PSI with my Asahi. The lower the PSI the lower the velocity but start low and work up to your field limits. The less PSI you use the quieter the report will be, I didn't really need a can for either of my bolt actions unless I cranked the regs. With that said my Asahi is quieter than a KSC M-11 and its shooting near 450FPS. Tanakas can shoot hotter than ARES replicas hands down but I don't see the point of passing 600FPS let alone 800+ unless you are target shooting. ARES have the stripper clip system which is a huge win in their behalf. One mag, no disconnecting air rig, no noise, no BB clicker, just extra 23rnd clips. I took the ball detent out so the clips would just slide in and out. ARES parts are getting hard to find now for some reason but are much cheaper to upgrade than Tanakas which might need a $70 VSR-10 hopup conversion. I think they both great but I like the ARES more but you half to track down the o-ring and hammer kits while they are still out there. Once you have them, get measurements so you can source them from places like mcmaster carr. I don't think ARES is doing well as a company right now and it maybe a while if those parts do become easier to find.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I am delingquent in my reply as I am trying obsorb all of this info... so until I come up with my next round of questions, I'll just say that this is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks guys.

This really should be a wiki-sticky!
 
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