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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
"My first sniper rifle"...




So you've just bought your first sniper rifle, and you're not sure where to go from here. My advice is to do a few modifications to the rifle (as below), and take it to at least 1 skirmish before you throw money into it...



Test compression and disassemble: Take the stock off, then the outer barrel, so you have just the receiver assembly and trigger unit. Cock the rifle (no BB's are needed) and hold your finger very firmly over the cylinder head and the pull the trigger. The ideally it shouldn't move at all, but if the piston hits the cylinder head in under a minute, then take note. You will be fixing this later on. Take apart the rest of the rifle. (if you have any trouble with this, check Youtube for quick help).



Clean almost everything and lubricate necessary parts:

- Clean the barrel; You can either spray some silicon spray down the barrel and then squeeze cut pieces of kitchen towel through it (roughly 10 times), or (the better way) you can spray some silicon spray onto some kitchen towel, and push that through several times, then use dry towel (roughly 5 to 10 times).

- Clean the bucking with a little hand soap and water and then leave to air dry. Some like to spray a little silicon spray on the outside of the bucking afterwards (I don't).

- Clean the hop up unit
.
- Clean the cylinder, cylinder head, piston, spring, and spring guide. Then spray the internals of the cylinder with a little bit of silicon spray (you don't want a puddle at the bottom of the cylinder). Then use teflon grease (if you have it) to do a light coating of the outside of the cylinder (NOT the cylinder head).


A few modifications and reassembly:
- Put the bucking back onto the barrel. Then wrap the bucking in PTFE (plumbers) tape (roughly 3 wraps) and continue the wrapping onto the barrel until the point that the end of the hop up unit reaches when assembled.

- Wrap the hop up arm (the pronged end) in 3 wraps of PTFE tape. If you just so happen to have some shims that fit, then shim the hop up arm as well (although the PTFE tape should do an ok job of this by itself).

- Wrap the cylinder head threading in PTFE tape several times.

- If when testing your compression, you found that your piston hit your cylinder head in under a minute, you have 2 options; 1, go and buy yourself a slightly thicker o-ring for the piston, or 2, take the o-ring off, add several wraps of PTFE tape and put the o-ring back on over the PTFE. Test that the piston still slides into the cylinder. Do another compression test later on, as you may need to add more PTFE underneath the o-ring (or buy an even thicker o-ring).

- Reassemble the inner barrel and hop up unit.

- If you have an outer barrel that is not tapered (e.g. a VSR-10 G-Spec outer barrel): Use electrical tape to create barrel spacers. I'd say 1 spacer every 10cm is enough, but I like to have the entire length of the barrel covered. Check every spacer fits perfectly into the outer barrel. Not too hard to get it, but it shouldn't just drop in.

- If you have a tapered barrel (e.g. VSR-10 Pro outer barrel): Take the barrel spacers that came with your rifle. Start with the smaller one, and drop that into the outer barrel (making sure it's facing the correct way) then jam that in there with something so that it is very stuck. Then do the same with the larger spacer. Then you'll just slide the barrel and hop up unit in.

- Now just finish reassembling the rifle

.

If your rifle is severely underpowered, then you may want to invest in a new spring straight away. Don't go over 400fps with .20g's with your stock internals (unless your stock internals are metal with steel sears in the trigger unit). But if you are at 350fps+ with .20g's, then leave it alone until you use the rifle first. If you have an air break, you could cut that down a little to up the fps a bit (make sure you sand off the tip of the air break to keep it smooth and rounded off). You can pick up an Element spring for under £10 pretty easily.



Your first real upgrade purchases should undoubtably be a new inner barrel and bucking. I really recommend a Raven PDI barrel (for me, THE best barrel for the money) and PDI Bucking (these buckings are a happy medium for low to high fps). You'll need to make sure your get these for your respective rifle, e.g. VSR's specifically take VSR cut barrels and buckings (unless you buy a different hop up unit).



Other good alternative brands for barrels:

PDI

Laylax

Prometheus

Prometheus Ash

Lonex

Madbull

Falcon

Deep Fire



Other good alternative brands for buckings (hard bucking for 420fps and above, soft bucking for anything below 420fps):

KA Red Air Seal (420fps < )

Nineball Purple Air Seal (420fps > )

Lonex
Firefly (another happy medium bucking)

Madbull hard

Madbull soft

TM (if you bought a clone in the first place)



If you decide you like your sniper rifle enough, and you want to go one step further than a barrel and bucking, then my advice is the following (VSR example)...
Make this order from x-fire.org (just under £72 / $120 before shipping):
VSR PDI Raven Barrel 430mm 6.01 TB
VSR PDI Bucking
VSR Piston Sear
VSR Trigger Sear
VSR Set Pin
VSR 240 Spring - 430fps w/ .20g BB's

The above are premium parts and will allow you to further expand in the future (piston, spring guide, higher rated spring etc)...

Lastly, I have left out a few modifications, e.g. the TDC mod. I've done this to simplify the guide, and because I think the above will get you pretty far as it stands. However, if anyone feels I have left anything out (e.g. brand names for other buckings or other modifications), please feel free to let me know.

Thanks for reading, and good luck on your build!

mj23lj

p.s. It's late, and has been a long day. So please PM to let me know if you spot a typo :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Just to add; If you haven't already bought your first sniper rifle but are thinking about it, here is an example of a what I believe is a great build without the heavy price tag (pictured at the top of the thread):

A&K M24
PDI Raven 6.01 TB
KA Hard Bucking
Laylax SP170 Spring
Alloy Piston (stock)
Steel Spring Guide (stock)
Steel Cylinder/Tapered Cylinder Head (stock)
Steel Trigger Asembly (stock)
Electrical Tape Barrel Spacers (entire length)
Kydex Cheek Rest (DIY)
M1 Leupold Replica w/ Scope Shade
Harris Bipod
US Woodland Camo paint job

This could be done for around $200 or £200 (we generally pay more in the UK), and throws .43's at close to the same accuracy and range as my previous $1000 VSR builds.
 

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I hate you. >:

I seriously was going to write up about the same thing once I got home from school.

Nice write up though! Here are some thing I would change.

Don't use silicon spray for greasing or the barrel and don't use kitchen towels! Use White Lithium Grease for the cylinder. Use rubbing alcohol and gun cleaning patches. You can also use Teflon tape for the hop up and cylinder head. Do not get any silicon spray inside the bucking. you can also do barrel spacers in tapered barrels too! you just need to start with the small end first. I would also suggest shimming your hop up are with thin sheets or metal or thick plastic.

Here are some good threads:

http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/32-general-sniper-talk/1466-barrel-polishing-guide.html

http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/32-general-sniper-talk/1040-washing-bb-s.html

http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/32-general-sniper-talk/4209-cleaning-your-inner-barrel-guide.html

http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/32-general-sniper-talk/4634-top-dead-center-mod-tdc-guide.html

http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/32-general-sniper-talk/1684-upgrades-not-sure-how-title.html

http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/4...nfinland-s-vsr-10-total-take-apart-guide.html
 

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Nice write up. Here are a few things from personal experience some of which go with what Spud has said.

-White lithium grease works great for the cylinder and trigger unit and doesn't fly off and leaves a nice coat on for quite some time. Just be sure not to use too much, like any grease, for debris will stick to it easily. A nice light coat ensures proper bolt pull. Be sure to clean your cylinder guide rings and put some grease on there for smoother bolt pull.

-Electric tape works for barrel spacers, but I find duct tape to stick to its form and not "slide" around. The electric tape tends to spread itself for its not strong enough when putting your rifle together. If your spacers are very tight when you slide your inner barrel into the outer one, the spacers might lose their form. I have pictures if this description is not good enough, but just by my personal experience, duct tape is the better route.

-Add the Dangerwerx hop up arm to the list for the VSR platform. This increases hop as more pressure (as well as it being more even) is applied, and allows for heavier weight bbs to be used without having to adjust to the max for hop up setting. I find I can run .4s easy at 35% setting as opposed to .28s at 100% on the stock hop up.

Since this is just a small quick info thread to point people in the right direction, I realize its intention is not to be into too much depth, but I personally would extend the info on the hop up. I find myself when building a rifle to ensure that the durability of the rifle is all set up so that I do not have to worry about the trigger sear breaking or the shell itself to snap or crack. Once I know my rifle can handle the stress with a specific spring, I then direct my attention to the hop up. The hop up is more important than a new cylinder head or harris bipod. For instance, you can do some DIY mods to the stock head, and skip on the new bipod and go with some new hop up pieces if tight on a budget. For instance, L96 series rifle, go with HP chamber, barrel and a bucking and you are set. For VSR 10 series, get the Dangerwerx hop up arm, a Firefly soft bucking (my personal favorite) and you are set (being mindful that there are two dangerwerx hop up arms, and each are designed to work with differently designed buckings).
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I think there are definitely different methods that are used by different people, and you should use what works well for you. Everyone new to this should try more than one if there is more than one choice available.

Definitely a very good point on the Dangerwerx hop up arm. I have one myself (the full nub, Type B). The only thing I would say; is that you can get pretty close to results with modifying the arm with the biro mod, just obviously it won't last as long as the Dangerwerx hop up arm. So I'd say this is more of a "complete rifle" purchase, rather than a first rifle or budget rifle choice (just my opinion).

For those of you who don't know, the biro mod is when you take the insert from a biro, and cut a piece of to fit in between the prongs of your hop up arm, and then super glue it in place. It's even more effective if you stiffen the biro insert piece by filling the inside of it with something hard.
 

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I've seen a DIY-mods only A&K M24 perform just as well as a TM VSR-10 full of PDI parts. Unfreakingbelievable performance on a 10 times cheaper gun.

Definitely mi recomendation for a budget friendly sniper rifle, and for anyone looking for an m700 kind of look.
 

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sorry if im bringing back an old thread but I am upgrading my A&K M24. what style hop up and bucking does the A&K m24 use? Ive been reading multiple different comments about it so I thought Id ask someone who has an upgrading A&K m24.
 

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Thanks for the tips I may apply those to what I currently have. A striker AS-01 with SDiK and autobot bucking as the only upgrades surprisingly performs pretty great with that, but have been searching for a better barrel. Had to modify the stock bridged barrel into a bridgless and file the hop up arm to conform to the bucking since it could not take a aftermarket nub. Eventually will try out the AA hopup unit and use the Omega nub.
 

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Just to add; If you haven't already bought your first sniper rifle but are thinking about it, here is an example of a what I believe is a great build without the heavy price tag (pictured at the top of the thread):

A&K M24
PDI Raven 6.01 TB
KA Hard Bucking
Laylax SP170 Spring
Alloy Piston (stock)
Steel Spring Guide (stock)
Steel Cylinder/Tapered Cylinder Head (stock)
Steel Trigger Asembly (stock)
Electrical Tape Barrel Spacers (entire length)
Kydex Cheek Rest (DIY)
M1 Leupold Replica w/ Scope Shade
Harris Bipod
US Woodland Camo paint job

This could be done for around $200 or £200 (we generally pay more in the UK), and throws .43's at close to the same accuracy and range as my previous $1000 VSR builds.
Couldn't i just do ^ but with a VSR?
 

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"My first sniper rifle"...




So you've just bought your first sniper rifle, and you're not sure where to go from here. My advice is to do a few modifications to the rifle (as below), and take it to at least 1 skirmish before you throw money into it...



Test compression and disassemble: Take the stock off, then the outer barrel, so you have just the receiver assembly and trigger unit. Cock the rifle (no BB's are needed) and hold your finger very firmly over the cylinder head and the pull the trigger. The ideally it shouldn't move at all, but if the piston hits the cylinder head in under a minute, then take note. You will be fixing this later on. Take apart the rest of the rifle. (if you have any trouble with this, check Youtube for quick help).



Clean almost everything and lubricate necessary parts:

- Clean the barrel; You can either spray some silicon spray down the barrel and then squeeze cut pieces of kitchen towel through it (roughly 10 times), or (the better way) you can spray some silicon spray onto some kitchen towel, and push that through several times, then use dry towel (roughly 5 to 10 times).

- Clean the bucking with a little hand soap and water and then leave to air dry. Some like to spray a little silicon spray on the outside of the bucking afterwards (I don't).

  • Clean the hop up unit
.
  • Clean the cylinder, cylinder head, piston, spring, and spring guide. Then spray the internals of the cylinder with a little bit of silicon spray (you don't want a puddle at the bottom of the cylinder). Then use teflon grease (if you have it) to do a light coating of the outside of the cylinder (NOT the cylinder head).


A few modifications and reassembly:
  • Put the bucking back onto the barrel. Then wrap the bucking in PTFE (plumbers) tape (roughly 3 wraps) and continue the wrapping onto the barrel until the point that the end of the hop up unit reaches when assembled.

  • Wrap the hop up arm (the pronged end) in 3 wraps of PTFE tape. If you just so happen to have some shims that fit, then shim the hop up arm as well (although the PTFE tape should do an ok job of this by itself).

  • Wrap the cylinder head threading in PTFE tape several times.

  • If when testing your compression, you found that your piston hit your cylinder head in under a minute, you have 2 options; 1, go and buy yourself a slightly thicker o-ring for the piston, or 2, take the o-ring off, add several wraps of PTFE tape and put the o-ring back on over the PTFE. Test that the piston still slides into the cylinder. Do another compression test later on, as you may need to add more PTFE underneath the o-ring (or buy an even thicker o-ring).

  • Reassemble the inner barrel and hop up unit.

- If you have an outer barrel that is not tapered (e.g. a VSR-10 G-Spec outer barrel): Use electrical tape to create barrel spacers. I'd say 1 spacer every 10cm is enough, but I like to have the entire length of the barrel covered. Check every spacer fits perfectly into the outer barrel. Not too hard to get it, but it shouldn't just drop in.

- If you have a tapered barrel (e.g. VSR-10 Pro outer barrel): Take the barrel spacers that came with your rifle. Start with the smaller one, and drop that into the outer barrel (making sure it's facing the correct way) then jam that in there with something so that it is very stuck. Then do the same with the larger spacer. Then you'll just slide the barrel and hop up unit in.

- Now just finish reassembling the rifle

.

If your rifle is severely underpowered, then you may want to invest in a new spring straight away. Don't go over 400fps with .20g's with your stock internals (unless your stock internals are metal with steel sears in the trigger unit). But if you are at 350fps+ with .20g's, then leave it alone until you use the rifle first. If you have an air break, you could cut that down a little to up the fps a bit (make sure you sand off the tip of the air break to keep it smooth and rounded off). You can pick up an Element spring for under £10 pretty easily.



Your first real upgrade purchases should undoubtably be a new inner barrel and bucking. I really recommend a Raven PDI barrel (for me, THE best barrel for the money) and PDI Bucking (these buckings are a happy medium for low to high fps). You'll need to make sure your get these for your respective rifle, e.g. VSR's specifically take VSR cut barrels and buckings (unless you buy a different hop up unit).



Other good alternative brands for barrels:

PDI

Laylax

Prometheus

Prometheus Ash

Lonex

Madbull

Falcon

Deep Fire



Other good alternative brands for buckings (hard bucking for 420fps and above, soft bucking for anything below 420fps):

KA Red Air Seal (420fps < )

Nineball Purple Air Seal (420fps > )

Lonex
Firefly (another happy medium bucking)

Madbull hard

Madbull soft

TM (if you bought a clone in the first place)



If you decide you like your sniper rifle enough, and you want to go one step further than a barrel and bucking, then my advice is the following (VSR example)...
Make this order from x-fire.org (just under £72 / $120 before shipping):
VSR PDI Raven Barrel 430mm 6.01 TB
VSR PDI Bucking
VSR Piston Sear
VSR Trigger Sear
VSR Set Pin
VSR 240 Spring - 430fps w/ .20g BB's

The above are premium parts and will allow you to further expand in the future (piston, spring guide, higher rated spring etc)...

Lastly, I have left out a few modifications, e.g. the TDC mod. I've done this to simplify the guide, and because I think the above will get you pretty far as it stands. However, if anyone feels I have left anything out (e.g. brand names for other buckings or other modifications), please feel free to let me know.

Thanks for reading, and good luck on your build!

mj23lj

p.s. It's late, and has been a long day. So please PM to let me know if you spot a typo :)
how much did this cost?
 

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ok, I will wait
Going to be waiting a long time the person you quoted hasn't logged in since may 2018... Which is why you don't 4 year old necro post.

If it's a really old post members may not be around anymore. Not everyone stays in the hobby for years or maintains a dedication to posting in forums long term and may go to more casual.

More members of the forum join asks the question gets the answers leaves and doesn't return than stays around for years. Once your rifle is built and working unless you have a real fixation like the rest of the long term members.
 
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