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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here are my guns:

My SG R700






My Tasco is broken :(

My DE M58a Shotgun



My CA M15




And My .22




I use a Barska on my .22. It is actually really crappy in comparison to my Tasco. (Before it broke)

Group photos




Shooting Remington High grade ammo for my .22. Effective at about 400 yards. By far the best .22 ammo out there.

I have a question about the M15 though. My flash hider stripped, How do I get it off?
 

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I don't want to be "that guy".......BUT.......... I shot a ton of .22's and I am sorry but you are not effective with a .22 out to 400 yards ;) Espically with a surplus looking rifle. Don't mean to be a prick, but I do a lot more shooting with my .22 than most people I have talked to.

Now 400 yards isn't unheard of, but for a .22 at that range it is more hit or miss. And isn't that scope a bushnell ;) not a barska?


And the pic of the real steel .22 should be in the lounge, not in the main gallery.


But the rest of the rifles looke great, and look like they have been used and loved.
 

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I think he means 400 feet, or I hope he does.

Also fuzzy I believe all ammo is dangerous up to 1.5 miles ::), as stated on the box. Also the farthest I have shot with a .22lr, or any rimless for that fact is 250 yards. But like you said its really swing or miss at that range, I would say my average is 60-70% at that range.

Oh one more thing, not to sound mean but at 200 yards the drop on a .22lr is close to 4 feet. Also 400 yards, at that point its crawling to get there, that's like a stock vsr trying to get 300 ft.
 

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furrycowthingy said:
Here are my guns:

My CA M15
http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q141/maggpie05/100_2495.jpg[/IMG]

I have a question about the M15 though. My flash hider stripped, How do I get it off?
Do you mean the hex screw stripped, or your whole flash hider stripped? Your best bet is a screw extractor.

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&source=hp&biw=1259&bih=878&q=screw+extractor&aq=7&aqi=g10&aql=f&oq=screw

Though judging by the precious little face I saw in a few photos, not to mention the proximity of the crib. You might try (though this procedure will void your warranty lol) a file and shave off 2 notches in your screw. Thus making your stripped hex screw, an impromptu flat head screw.
 

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hidden187 said:
Also fuzzy I believe all ammo is dangerous up to 1.5 miles ::),
Why does everyone confuse me with woogie?


Digging the shotgun big time. Love the worn down look. Makes it look like you have used this thing a lot.

What's up with all the orange tips?
 

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Did some looking, and that is indeed a Bushnell scope. The Barska logo has a design from the 6 to the 3 position on the caps. And looking at the scope in general, you probably don't have enough adjustment to make it even close to the 400 yard mark. That is without holding 5+ feet over the target above your scopes field of view.

I can get my .22lr to print a nice tight group out to 300 yards. I have gone for the 400 yards, but at that distance you are more or less hoping to hit the target. And you also need the scope to have enough elevation in it to compensate for the drop, or have a 30-40 mil base for the scope.

Next time out at the range I will post some pics of the groups from 50-300 yards. And of course all of the details and price it took to get there ;)

We are just both so darn cool fuzzy


And all ammo is rated for the 1.5 miles, thus why you don't fire your rifle at a 45* angle ;) But at that range you will just get hit with it, no real damage done. But still DON'T SHOOT LIKE THAT!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have actually gotten 6 out of 10 at ranges of around 400 yards. I can post some pics of my results next time I go to the range. Which will be this Tuesday. Bust some times I do get it of flyers. I think that .22 have of of potential, and in my eyes, it is useful to around 400 yards. Past that...well, no.

You are right about the scope it is a bushell. I am just blind. I got the scope from amazon and I wasn't really searching for quality. Because I had a Tasco. When I got it I swear I never looked at to examine it. Now I realize that bushell varmint scopes aren't worth $30. I would say about $20.

My hex screw is stripped on my M15 and I have tried a extractor. The problem is is that the screw is not the same quality is the rest of the screws and it is rusted. How would you advise me getting the rust off without messing up the flashhider completely.

My shotgun is 3 and a half years old. It still shoots like a champ too. All you have to do is treat it with care. It does have a very crummy paintjob though. My first :)

As for my orange tips, well, I got in trouble with a cop once because of it so I just tend to leave them on. It sucks, I know...

Sorry, I feel that my post wasn't very clear. I will honestly try next time make it as clear and thorough as possible.
 

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Are you sure about the range you are shooting at? Because I am still going to say BS on the claim of 400 yards. Now 400 feet yeah sure that isn't to hard to do, being it is only 133 yards ;) And what size is the target you are shooting at? A building, then that would be easy, a 24" steel plate??

Figure a 22lr traveling about 1200 fps and a B.C. of 0.150 and a 100 yard zero. That slug drops at least 57 inches at 400 yards, it drifts nearly 30 inches, in a 5 mph cross wind, and has the energy of about 54 pounds.

Now I am not going to say it can't be done, because it can. But not with what you have and the equipment you are using. Sorry man, but please PLEASE don't try to BS people on this forum..... it is just going to make you look like a fool.


Now if you can provide video proof that you can consistently hit a target at 400 yards, I will change my statement. But as of now I am going to say BS.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well I am just going to tell you that I do not have the money to purchase a video camera and my digi cameras video feature is broken. But if I did I would show you. I am shooting at a old conventional diesel truck's hood. I use the center point of the hood as my target but if it hits the hood I still consider it a hit. I think that you have a finer standard onto which you say a gun is effective on. I am sorry if anything I said came off wrong or rude because that is surely not what I am trying to do. But I swear on everything I own and love that I can use my rifle at 400 with some flyers here and there. Believe it or not. :)
 

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To remove the rusted screw, try heating the flash hider with a torch. Remove the inner barrel/hop up assembly so you don't cause that to heat up and ruin it. A lot of times heat will help you break the rust and get it out. If that can't be done, you can use a drill bit and drill out the screw, which should cause minimal if any damage to the flash hider, just make sure you don't drill too far into it and go into outer barrel. The last option you have, you're gonna need a file or dremmel with a cutting bit, cut into the screw long ways, across the base of the flash hider, which will cause the screw to break and you can remove it that way.
 

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So a 7'x7' target?

That is doable with the set that you have, but would still require a bit of luck as well. But hell a hit is a hit.


Now if you can do the same thing but on an 8.5"x11" target..... then you have something to be proud of.



For the rifle problem....... try and get your hands on some torque bits. They are the ones that look like little stars. Find one that is a little bit larger than the allen key that you have on the muzzle break. Take a hammer and GENTLY tap it in. You should be able to get enough torque on it to pop her out.

Then if that doesn't work, just get a drill bit and drill it out.
 

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woogie said:
We are just both so darn cool fuzzy


And all ammo is rated for the 1.5 miles, thus why you don't fire your rifle at a 45* angle ;) But at that range you will just get hit with it, no real damage done. But still DON'T SHOOT LIKE THAT!
How new snipers try to get a 300 foot shot with a vsr clone.

fuzzywolly said:
hidden187 said:
Also fuzzy I believe all ammo is dangerous up to 1.5 miles ::),
Why does everyone confuse me with woogie?
Sorry I messed that one up .
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I was very fortunate and found A torque bit just the right size for my hex screw. I heated it up and twisted, twisted and twisted some more. Nothing. Should I spray it with lube. I was concerned only because my lube I use if flammable. And shed floor doesn't take to good to fire, being it is made of crappy wood
 

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furrycowthingy said:
I was very fortunate and found A torque bit just the right size for my hex screw. I heated it up and twisted, twisted and twisted some more. Nothing. Should I spray it with lube. I was concerned only because my lube I use if flammable. And shed floor doesn't take to good to fire, being it is made of crappy wood
Usually it isn't the lubricant itself that is flammable, it's the propellant they use to make it aerosol that's flammable. I'm not saying you should try it and cannot be responsible if you do and it does catch fire, but typically it's safe. If nothing else, spray it down with lube, let it sit for 30 minutes or so, dry it off the best you can and then try heating it.
 

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What Dutton said


Get a pot of water boiling, and stick the tip of your barrel in. Just make sure the rifle is apart ;)

And you are sure you are turning the screw the correct way? I only ask because I know I have done it the wrong way, and with some airsoft guns the threads are reverse.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I got it! The hex screw was forced in the flashhider because the flashhider is standard and the screw is metric. So the weren't compatible. I stuck it under boiling water. Used a torque bit and had my brother hold the gun while I twisted and it just POPPED! I really appreciate the help guys :) thanks
 
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