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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been airsofting for a year now and for the first 9 months or so playing the team sergeant/assaulter role. I recently purchased a stock TSD M700 to test the waters of the sniper role. This past Saturday at a major North Texas Operation I fielded it for the first time and found it to be a good entry level sniper weapon system. I also purchased a simple folding bi-pod and 4x32 scope for it. Right out of the box, fired 4 times prior to game it chronoed at 475 with .2 BB's. It shoots a little to the left but I have not dialed in the scope and just "Kentucky winded" my shots. I used Mad Bull .3 sniper grade BB's and found them to perform quite well but will up the weight to .36 or maybe even a .4 in the future. I have pretty much read through all the posts in this section and the "VSR" section and have a few questions.

#1: What is the advantage to "Washing" BB's prior to firing?

#2: How do you wash and dry them?

#3: I definitely want to paint the stock, rifle and scope. How? Is there a step by step paint guide here? What needs to be removed or taped over?

#4: There is no set screw at the end of the barrel in the "Ugly orange tumor" so can I just carefully heat it with a hair drier or something to un-set the glue and screw it out for painting?

Thanks in advance for any and all serious advice regarding this particular rifle will be much welcomed.

I am currently looking at either an Echo 1 M28 without mods or the ASGI AS700 for my next rifle, step up. Any opinions on either? Which may be better? Pro's and Con's from people with actual experience with the platform welcome. Please, no speculations. Fact based hands on experience only, please.
 

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#1. If you wash your BBs you remove any extra dirt that you don't need getting inside of your gun.
#2. I put the BBs in a wash cloth and put just a little bit of dish soap(a little goes along way). I dry them by getting a new cloth and apply pressure to the BBs inside of the cloth. So it then absorbs all of the water.
#3. Use either painters tape or duct tape and apply it to the cylinder, the tip of the barrel, the lenses of your scope, and possibly over the trigger. You can apply it to other parts but these are just the most important.
#4. I don't know. My friend has a TSD sd700 and he just carefully put painters tape over the orange part of the barrel and then he just painted over that.

~Happy Hunting
 

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I just got the exact same gun. After some DIY modification (no parts), mine is shooting at 520 fps. All I did was the Teflon mod and rounded out the inside of the nozzle for smoother airflow with a dremel and a drill (I put the nozzle in the drill).
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks, I got a L96 today and need to clean it and do all the DIY mods to both now. I watched a DIY video on YouTube that I can no longer seem to locate, and the guy put a bicycle tire valve stem cap inside his cylinder to kind of "Gap" the spring? Would be interested to hear if you know about this or can direct me to the video once again. Thanks.
 

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I think it was Vindi that said this awhile back, but when washing your bbs use diet coke. I poor my bbs into a clean container and dump the diet coke in. I let that sit for eight hours, and then I drain out the coke, and put the bbs in another container with soapy water. Let that sit for a few hours, and then I let them air dry on a towel.

Please note, when putting your bbs back into its container, bag, etc. make sure its clean. The bag/container can have residue from the bbs, that can end up getting inside your rifle.

When removing the orange tip, I simply take a hair dryer (melts the glue) to it for around ten minutes, and then try to pull it off. On the l96 rifles, the orange is simply a cap, that covers up a black threaded cap. The orange can be pulled right off. Not sure about the TSD m700, but I would imagine it would be a similar process.
 

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I think its the acid in them that cleans them off better than just soap and water. Also when you use soap make sure the soap is a degreaser. IE, Dawn. It works better at getting your hand oils off the bb.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Use diet coke as it is sugar free. Back to topic, I found a couple videos about the spring spacer DIY mod and will put them here later after I find what appears to me to be the safest and best option. The red tumor on the end of my TSD 700 came off with 3 minutes of hair dryer on high and a pair of channel lock pliers and some gentle twisting.
 

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Did it Screw off or just pull right off? So for I have covered mine up with a silencer. Also why would you use diet coke to wash bbs? Wouldn't just vinegar work as it has a similar pH and probably less residue?
 

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I do not remember why exactly, but something along the lines that the acids work better at cleaning the bbs (Like pkidd said).

And like I said in my original post, use DIET coke, not regular coke cola.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'm going to hijack my own thread here a little. This thread is the best explaination of how and why to wash BB's. Never wash a Bio that I know. I have however read a thread where the poster was going to wash his Bio's, dry them and put them in a plastic bottle and wondered if they would be okay. Go figure. Read it, practice it. Enjoy the performance improvement. If the viniger works out, PM me, might be a better acidic agent than diet coke.

http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/phpBB/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=1037&start=0
 

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silentfury214 said:
I would also suggest you wash the bbs with water after the coke though because it seems to leave a very sticky residue.
Yes, I believe I said that as well in my original post. As everyone here probably knows, coke cola is sticky. Make sure to wash it off the bbs after they have been soaked for awhile.

After doing this, and cleaning the bb container, I have noticed no more residue on the sides of the container of bbs anymore. There is a big difference between bbs right out of the bag, and ones that have been cleaned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Before. Nothing anyone with a TSD M700 or like hasn't already seen.


And after,










Next I plan to jute wrap the barrel and put on some rubber bands for application of local veg. Jute wrap the scope. Add a buttstock pad. Polish the current inner barell and make a couple DIY spacers to add stability. Disassemble the cylinder and clean it. Add a 1/4 inch spring spacer on to the spring guide. Dremel out the inside of the air nozzle and polish it. teflon tape the air nozzle threads and the bucking and I should be able to squeeze another 50fps out of it without having to have spent hundreds on expensive upgrade parts. Time will tell.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Still need to paint inside of flip caps. Next week I am going to disassemble and do the DIY mods to my cylinder set. Teflon tape the air nozzle threads. Add a 1/4 inch spring spacer and teflon tape around the back of the bucking. I have also studied a little about actually taping the end of the outside of the air nozzle. The last 1/16 to 1/8 inch. The shooter that did this mod used black electrical tape but I think I may look at heat shrink tubing and cut it close to size as I can then heat shrink it and carefully trim it up. So far I have $130 in the rifle, scope and bipod. $10 In paint. $1 For teflon tape. With all the study I have done so far I'm expecting it should chrono right in the vicinity of 550 fps with .20 BB's after all simple DIY mods. More later.
 

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turbine said:
Still need to paint inside of flip caps. Next week I am going to disassemble and do the DIY mods to my cylinder set. Teflon tape the air nozzle threads. Add a 1/4 inch spring spacer and teflon tape around the back of the bucking. I have also studied a little about actually taping the end of the outside of the air nozzle. The last 1/16 to 1/8 inch. The shooter that did this mod used black electrical tape but I think I may look at heat shrink tubing and cut it close to size as I can then heat shrink it and carefully trim it up. So far I have $130 in the rifle, scope and bipod. $10 In paint. $1 For teflon tape. With all the study I have done so far I'm expecting it should chrono right in the vicinity of 550 fps with .20 BB's after all simple DIY mods. More later.
I wish you all the luck of obtaining 550 with DIY mods. I have used the teflon tape mods and I have slightly ported the nozzle etc, and with .2 gram BB's I was able to get between 454 and 457 fps and the rifle fired between 377 and 385 on .3's. I have not messed with any springs, as I am trying to get the stock sears to last a little while.

Here is the video of the data I shot today:


I love this rifle; it was cheap enough to get and play with trying to squeeze out more o the stock performance. I may even put some pint on this one.
 
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