My VSR scout rifle

4274 Views 10 Replies 4 Participants Last post by Cheese Man, Jan 13, 2012

bladeofdeath3

Discussion Starter · Jan 12, 2012

Hi guys, a while back, I decided to build a vsr scout rifle. This is my progress so far.
My almost complete vsr g-spec scout rifle

Internals:
Laylax 430mm barrel
Nineball purple bucking
Laylax SP170 or SP150 spring (different fields have different fps maximums)
Laylax Zero Trigger and Piston
Laylax spring guide

Externals:
RS Remington 700 sights
NCStar 2.5x20 scope

Wave 2 upgrades:
Laylax G-spec barrel spacers
Laylax Cylinder head with damping kit
Cheek riser

Since the silencer is going to be permanent, any opinions on the color? I'm leaning towards the green to contrast, but tan would keep the barrel area consistent. While the spring pull is pretty hard on the 170, would the teflon cylinder help that much? Any feedback of what i'm doing right/wrong?

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MGunner

· #2 · Jan 12, 2012

Looks very good. Replace your front cylinder guide ring (the black rings inside your receiver that you cylinder rides on, is found between the outer barrel and receiver) with medium thick o-rings, and grease that and the outside of the cylinder with WHITE lithium grease, and the bull and push of your bott will be very smooth.

I would also tone the spring down and try to get a 100% airseal on your cylinder head and bucking. Have you tapered your cylinder head? I wrote a guide on it, let me see if I can dig it up.

Found it: http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/phpBB/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=2760

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woogie

· #3 · Jan 12, 2012

I would cut the outer barrel and make it look even shorter... and have the inner barrel run through the silencer

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bladeofdeath3

Discussion Starter · #4 · Jan 12, 2012

i forgot to mention that i replaced the o-rings. i'll take a look at your thread and see. I didn't taper the cylinder head and I can imagine it's gonna be hard on the new one (it's steel i think...) As for the outer barrel, I drilled the hole in the front of the gun bigger to allow the barrel through it. That was one problem I encountered when first running the longer inner barrel. It was a pain at first, but I eventually got it. The inner barrel runs about halfway through the silencer.

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MGunner

· #5 · Jan 12, 2012

Sorry, if it has the damper kit, leave it.

and the steel would be a PITA to sand down.

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bladeofdeath3

Discussion Starter · #6 · Jan 13, 2012

yea, especially with the tools i have. I have access to a legit lathe, unlike the power drill one you use in your tutorial. I haven't installed the new cylinder head and damping kit yet, but i'm definitely gonna drop down to the 150 spring when i build the new cylinder. Also, what's your guys opinions on porting the inner barrel?

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Cheese Man

· #7 · Jan 13, 2012

I like my ported barrel, but only do it if you have a drill press or a mill to make sure the holes are perfectly straight, and something to deburr nicely.

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bladeofdeath3

Discussion Starter · #8 · Jan 13, 2012

I have access to a drill press, which is what I was thinking of using. What did you do to de-burr the barrel and what kind of performance did you see?

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Cheese Man

· #9 · Jan 13, 2012

I put it into my lathe and used some sandpaper, then polishing compound on a wire brush, then a cloth.

I didn't see hugely amazing performance gains, I did notice that I could use a shorter barrel with a longer cylinder because it would decrease the turbulence at the end of the barrel. I also noticed that if you put some foam around the ports, it can act as an integral suppressor, depending on how many ports you put in.

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bladeofdeath3

Discussion Starter · #10 · Jan 13, 2012

So it's more of a noise thing. I'm trying to make my rifle as quiet as possible. The silencer which came with the gun has foam in it, which would be similar to what you described. Did you do 4 holes around the barrel?

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Cheese Man

· #11 · Jan 13, 2012

4 holes in each position, NSEW.

16 holes total.

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