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Need help with BB weight choice, new aeg build

1132 Views 43 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  SiliconeSword
I am working on getting best accuracy possible out of my build. So far have tried .30 and .43g. Build is mad bull 6.01 with krytac hop unit, flat arm, long spring on barrel (more force applied to hop-nozzle interface) Rhop with elvish tactical patch, oring nozzle, zci gearbox, m120 spring. With .30 it's 366fps 1.9 joules, .43 it's 306 fps 1.88 joules. That's all I have for bb.

At 60yds with slight wind shooting offhand the .43 are more consistent with most shots hitting a 8x10 inch steel plate.
I think the .43 may be a little slow? Definitely expensive.
What you all recommend .36, .40 ? I will be semi only most engagements in the summer are 50-80 yds (lots of growth- trees here in the southeast USA). What can I expect from this build as far as max effective range? Any suggestions to improve it, this is my first AEG build (usually use my VSR I built). Much appreciated!
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Heavier BB's reach the target faster even so their unitial speed is slower - just a result of flow resistance. So if you go for maximum accuracy, stick with them.
Personally I would use 0.32, because these are the heaviest BB's I can get for a reasonable price and in a dense vegetation twigs get always in the way and reduce accuracy even with 0.45g, so I don't experience a significant difference in a game.
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Your build looks half-decent to me at first glance. Here's some questions you could ask yourself that could lead to some improvement:

What is your spring and your FPS consistency? An "M120" shouldn't shoot that hot, which suggests to me that you may have a bad spring. A high quality spring can help boost FPS consistency and therefore accuracy.

What is your hop rubber and how stable is the pressure being applied to it? Is your hop arm shimmed?

Is your entire barrel group stabilized?

What is your barrel length? If the barrel is too long you could easily be undervoluming those BB weights and causing extra resistance, which I find can ruin accuracy.

Is your cylinder full?
Hi there, fps on the.30s varies about 4 fps. It was greater but than I found the stock spring that pushes on the hop chamber was weak and then replaced it with a gbb recoil spring cut down. M120 was ordered from evike, don't have brand name. I was thinking I had great air seal, tbb, and efficient hop- that was why so high velocity?? Hop rubber is Modify flat hop. Hop arm not shimmed. Should I shim with tape? And do both sides? Inner barrel only stabilized (contacting outer barrell) at the muzzle end of outer barrel. It protrudes I to a mock silencer. Suggestions? I will measure bbl length when get back Saturday. Cylinder is stock version 2 If it matters it is all installed in a elite force m4, dremmeled here and there to fit Thank you!!!
Sorry, that deersticker reply is me Spurgeons Hammer...wrong log in
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Alright:

~4 isn't terrible but it could be better. It's difficult to tell what exactly is the limiting factor. My first suggestion is to use a piece of cork or even a piece of plastic as a buffer between the hop unit and the upper receiver. This will provide more consistent pressure than even a strong spring.

Springs are very important--an M120 with great airseal should put you between 1.4 and 1.6 Joules depending on your setup. PDI and Guarder are the highest quality easily available in the USA, with Guarder being far more prevalent. Many, if not most springs sold to the American market are actually soft, and will lose power and even physically bend, causing extra wear and less-than-ideal consistency. These include Matrix, SHS/Rocket, Core, and many other common brands. I have heard ASG and Prometheus are also good quality, but haven't had anyone experienced confirm with good chrono results. For reference I usually push for ~1 FPS.

Check if your hop arm is wiggly before shimming--tape works great. Stabilization in general is very DIY. As long as it works it works! I typically use wraps of ordinary Scotch tape on inner barrels, and then aluminum tape on the hop arm "wings", and cork between the hop unit and upper receiver, or some other rubbery material.

I like the Modify flathop rubber. What nub are you using?

The cylinder matters quite a bit in this case--for those .43gs and a full cylinder, you only have enough air for about 300mm of barrel length. With that V2 cylinder you may be seriously undervoluming your setup and causing drag on the BB, which would reduce accuracy.
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Ok, here is what I got:

Fps measured with . 43
302.4
304.4
303.2
300.0
302.5

Bbl length (inner) is about 15.5 inches. Sounds like I am about 3 inches long....? What should I drop bb weight to. However the .43 are more consistent than .30s. Maybe the weight factor has more input? Should be a sweet spot between. 30 and .43.....

Spring is made by "Rocket". Any good?

No nub, krytac flat arm pushes directly on hop rubber

Thanks much!!
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Also, at 60yds what do you consider acceptable 5 shot group size? What should this build be capable of?
I'd say that 60m body hits, say 3/5 shots is probably a pretty solid goal in good conditions for a gun like that.
I'd maybe take a look at .40g or .36g BBs instead, and depending how much you plan on shooting I may suggest that you get ASG brand BBs in the small 1000rd bottle as those have proven to be the best BBs stateside, at least the ones in .48g I purchased.

As for your barrel, if it is not aluminum I would very highly recommend that you lap it after taking a look at the lapping guide in my signature, as that will very often improve accuracy by 30% or so in two cases I have tested.
I think that it can probably be done for sub $35 and in under an hour and a half if it's your first time doing it.

The other improvements I would recommend would be replacing the spring on your barrel with a stack of O-rings instead, and inserting a sleeve made of soda can, playing card, or paper into your muzzle between your inner and outer barrel in order to align everything. If you can, I would also recommend doing so a couple inches from your hop chamber, and once you are sure that it fits you can super glue the shim material to your inner barrel.
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Ok, here is what I got:

Fps measured with . 43
302.4
304.4
303.2
300.0
302.5

Bbl length (inner) is about 15.5 inches. Sounds like I am about 3 inches long....? What should I drop bb weight to. However the .43 are more consistent than .30s. Maybe the weight factor has more input? Should be a sweet spot between. 30 and .43.....

Spring is made by "Rocket". Any good?

No nub, krytac flat arm pushes directly on hop rubber

Thanks much!!
Rocket are SHS but with a bit better QC. I would personally say drop the Rocket and go for, say, a Guarder, but that FPS consistency isn't horrible, and if the up-and-down consistency doesn't bother you than it's a minor improvement. It is likely that the Rocket spring will lose power over time a lot faster than it should, but as long as it's not the silver version you should be okay. I've had the silver versions bend inside the gearbox and cause early wear on different parts due to shoving the piston around.

That's about a 400mm inner barrel, so definitely undervolumed... If I were you I'd at least purchase and try out a full type 0 cylinder, which should be pretty cheap and easy to install. If your power goes way up, you know it was lack of air. Ideal barrel length (on a full cylinder) is around 300 for .43g and 380 for .30g. If I were you I'd go 363mm to split the difference, or just stick with your current barrel, try out a full cylinder and see what you get.

Your Krytac arm is probably fine, but if you wanted to try making a flat or concave nub out of some scrap plastic it's a dirt cheap way to try and improve accuracy. Basically just an interface between the arm and the rubber to try and provide more consistent, flatter pressure.

Personally, using .43g, I would aim for better consistency (say, at least headshot consistency at 60m), but work towards your own goals. I build rifles based on what works well on my field, but not everywhere is the same.

I'll second SiliconeSword's suggestions. He spends way too much time figuring these things out...
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60yards (~54m) with 1.88J having a 3 out of 5 accuracy is well within realistic and good accuracy ranges IMO.

4fps which is about 1.22m/s, while probably could be better is also a realistic/passable range. That's about how good a decent sniper could do and isn't going to be extremely problematic.
OK, I have to comment on the issue of price for heavy weight BB's, and the hesitation of people to step up to heavier weight bb's.

Yes, the heavier do cost more, per shot; but cost is also a metric of consumption. Let's say that we engage a target that is 200 feet or so out (numbers are from the hip but demonstrative of observations that I have made in the past:

  • It takes ten shots of .32g BB's to hit that target
  • It takes six shots of .36g BB's to hit that same target
  • With .40g BB's, the target is hit with the fourth shot
  • Using .43g BB's, the target gets hit on the third shot

If the cost of .40g BB's, per shot is twice what the cost of a .32g BB is per shot, it's going to cost a player 8/10th's (or 80%) of the cash outlay, to use .40g BB's that it versus what it would cost for the use of .32g's. In the end, its extremely likely that a person is paying more to use .32g BB's than it would for .40g's (similar math can be done for comparison of other weights)


Data Source Amped Airsoft 5/15/23.32g BLSshot consumption (@200 feet)Consumption cost
Bag Cost (BLS brand .32g) $ 18.99
BB Count3,125.00
Price per BB $0.0060810 $ 0.06
.40g BLS
Bag Cost (BLS brand .40g) $33.99
BB Count2,500.00
Price per BB $0.013604 $ 0.05
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I find that with BBs there are really only four camps to be in, as the class between 2 and 3 is usually more expensive than 3 in the long run, unless you really need to use those in between weights.
The jump in price between .30g and .32g is pretty serious, and for that amount of money you're really not gaining much over .30g. More can be said for .36g, but that's still almost not that great.

#1 : blasting the cheapest .28g and below weights
#2 : blasting cheap .30(I fall into this a lot)
#3 : carefully using .40g(when I'm being careful with a DMR)
#4 : .48g and above, if you can manage to do so with your DMR, and what you should be using for a sniper
I find that with BBs there are really only four camps to be in, as the class between 2 and 3 is usually more expensive than 3 in the long run, unless you really need to use those in between weights.
The jump in price between .30g and .32g is pretty serious, and for that amount of money you're really not gaining much over .30g. More can be said for .36g, but that's still almost not that great.

#1 : blasting the cheapest .28g and below weights
#2 : blasting cheap .30(I fall into this a lot)
#3 : carefully using .40g(when I'm being careful with a DMR)
#4 : .48g and above, if you can manage to do so with your DMR, and what you should be using for a sniper
Where do I belong with my Bushido .25gs? :(
I would say probably in the .30g cheap range if they're as good as people say, but idk what the CPR is on those
In my experience, they're really good. Supposedly the formula and manufacturing standards are superior to almost all the other brands in the market (I've heard they got their formula from Azimuth, which no longer exists, but which was supposed to have had some seriously high quality BBs).

In informal shooting tests they performed about as well or a bit better than Krytac, which performed a bit better than G&G. I don't have any BLS or EMG on hand. I'm out of town right now, but I wanted to borrow my company's warehouse to do some actual testing... too little time, too much to do!
I may get some at some point, but I think I'll probably be more likely to get a pile of cheap .40g from Taiwangun and polish them myself. That'll be a while tho, I've got tons of EMG and BLS I got on sale, and I'm not shooting as much now that the weather is just right for fishing and all that.

In a video WYZ2285 did years ago where he compared polished to unpolished BBs there was a pretty clear improvement even with his kinda shitty camera and filming, so I think I may need to attempt that with more of his style. One thing to be wary of with self polished BBs and just the generally more rough BBs is mag problems, as that's been an issue with some tracers I bought and some other BBs I tumbled with sand.
Ok, I checked my cylinder it is not vented. So should be good there. I will do the mods to support barrell and shim hop arm sides.

The barrell looks like anodized aluminum,,,sigh

Ill see how the spring holds up and will get a gaurder if it starts to fail.

I'm going after accuracy, will be semi only, so that makes sense to go heavy, plan on ordering ASG.40 and will test accuracy and fps + deviation again. Or will I still be badly undervolume....?

After these home mods, before bbs arrive I'll post what the accuracy looks like at 60yds.

Much appreciated all your help!
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Well I think that the best route for you would depending on budget would be to get a Lambda, Action Army, or ZCI barrel and lap that. You will see a boost in accuracy I am sure, and is likely the next step towards getting more from your gun.

Can't speak as to volume, I'm more akin to the HPA tribe lol.
What length should I get? Can I use the same rhop patch if I get a 6.01, or should just get a new one and glue in.... that said 6.01 ID ? As long as I polish the accuracy shouldn't change to much with diameter, but velocity would drop with a larger ID....
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