[wheatthin]

I plan on upgrading my gearbox for my G36 (ver. 3).

Right now, this is what it is. It went from the box to the gun. http://www.airsoftpost.com/product_info.php?cPath=24_68_525&products_id=27863

I'm using the Matrix 3000 magnum motor. I want to put in an M125/ 210% spring. What else in the gearbox, if anything, do I need to upgrade/ replace?

Side note: I have an AB mosfet, so I'll have the anti-reversal latch removed.

Thanks

 

[shadowbot]

Read this thread: http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/phpBB/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=1411

Woogies thread has loads of information that you may find useful.

I do not have any experience with this gearbox whatsoever, so my tips may be weak and unfounded. I think you may want to open up the gearbox to see what all is inside it. I read that it has a plastic spring guide, I would upgrade this to a stronger one. You may also want to check the piston. I would recommend at least having one metal tooth in your piston, if not all metal teeth. Other than that your setup seems pretty good.

 

[wheatthin]

I have read Woogie's thread, but it's mostly about specific ver. 2 gearboxes. I am looking for information of specific parts (such as your advice about the spring guide and piston). Thanks

Will I need high-torque gears to run an M125 spring with my motor?

 

[shadowbot]

I am still running my stock gears and stock motor with a M130 spring in my SR-25. I think that your motor should have no trouble with a M125 spring being that it is a torque motor. Do you have any idea what spring is currently in the gun and what rps it is running? Also what voltage battery you are using?

 

[wheatthin]

Right now it has a M110 in there. I have a 9.6v battery, so there's no trouble there. I'll just look into what my gearbox has. If you gears are fine, than I probably won't get a new set unless my current ones completely suck. Thanks for the help.

 

[metallicafatcat]

Keep the anti-reversal latch in. If something were to happen, you'd have a pretty f'ed up gear train. Most of SRC's internals are built pretty solidly, their piston is open to debate however. I'd recommend switching to deans connectors and rewiring to 16AGW if it hasn't already been done. SRC is also pretty good at their shimming so you could make it better, but it will be more accurate than a clone G36. You dont need torque up gears. My AEG friends run high speed gears with high torque motors and get like 400fps @ 30rps, with an 11.1. There's a lot of stuff out their on GBs, more than I know about V3s or what you need.

 

[wheatthin]

Should I keep it even with an AB mosfet? I've already got deans, the wires may come sooner or later. And it's good to know I won't need gears. Thanks

EDIT: I'm looking at pistons and heads since metallicafatcat didn't seem to optimistic about SRC in that area. I know Vindi recommends a bearing piston head in his DMR write-up, but I have read elsewhere that having two bearings causes the spring to spin as opposed to turning on its axis, negating the positive effect of a bearing. I'm leaning toward Vindi for the facts, but I could use some reassurance.

 

[dutton]

Should I keep it even with an AB mosfet? I've already got deans, the wires may come sooner or later. And it's good to know I won't need gears. Thanks

EDIT: I'm looking at pistons and heads since metallicafatcat didn't seem to optimistic about SRC in that area. I know Vindi recommends a bearing piston head in his DMR write-up, but I have read elsewhere that having two bearings causes the spring to spin as opposed to turning on its axis, negating the positive effect of a bearing. I'm leaning toward Vindi for the facts, but I could use some reassurance.

I've really never had a issue using a bearing spring guide with a bearing piston head, or using just one bearing in either configuration. The problem comes when you get a junk spring (ie. Systema - they make extremely good parts, but their springs are garbage) where imperfections cause them to break.

As for the piston, I would look into the G&P pistons or a Madbull pistons, those are what I've had the best luck with, and are what is in all of my guns. As a sidenote to commend Madbull pistons, when they first came out, as an 'first buyer' offer, they sold them for $1 + shipping, which was like another $2-3. Anyways, I used that piston in the weapon of mine that has gotten by far the most use (of course, before my PTW...), but it lasted for a solid 4 years before getting replaced. Actually, the piston was still working just fine, but was beginning to wear out so I replaced it during routine maintenance when I noticed it. So I keep a few spares on hand in case a teammate has a piston failure.

For piston heads, I don't know whether that gearbox comes with a bore up piston or not. If it does, (which it doesn't look like) it can only use a silent bore up piston head. If not, any polycarb pistonhead should do, just replace the o-ring either via Vindi's method of stretching it or with a #14 o-ring from any local hardware store, and you should be golden.

As for the anti-reversal latch, almost every single one of my guns has an AB mosfet in it, but they all also have the anti-reversal latch. Really, you never know what is gonna happen, so I plan for the worst. That mosfet may fail at any time, but that anti-reversal isn't, so why remove it?

 

[wheatthin]

Thanks Dutton, that's all the information I was looking for. I have been looking at a G&P piston, and I'll plan on getting it. For the rest, it's good to know. I've already done a good number of Vindi's tricks on my rifle, and I have a feeling I'll be very satisfied when it comes time to put it all to the test.

Thanks for all the help.

 

[mojo]

Guys you are missing the point...

The reason for the latch removal.... it will mean your gearbox will not lock up again.... ever! Combine over enthusiastic trigger use, a battery that is lacking in power and an AR latch and it could result in a lock up, at best this means releasing the spring, at worst a gearbox strip, with the AR latch removed the worst you get is a double feed!

 

[dutton]

Guys you are missing the point...

The reason for the latch removal.... it will mean your gearbox will not lock up again.... ever! Combine over enthusiastic trigger use, a battery that is lacking in power and an AR latch and it could result in a lock up, at best this means releasing the spring, at worst a gearbox strip, with the AR latch removed the worst you get is a double feed!

Believe me, I'm not missing the point. There are pro's and con's of doing it either way. I prefer to rely on my gearbox that I built as opposed to an electronic mosfet, which easily, and commonly can fail.

With that said, if you know what you're doing, you're not gonna have gears strip. The instant you hear gears grinding/not cycling, quit pulling that trigger, and you're in the clear...

 

[wheatthin]

Thanks for all the advice. I will keep it in. Like Dutton said, I'd rather rely in a mechanical part that is much less likely to fail than an electrical one, which has many variables. All this provided I treat and care for my gun and gearbox well, which I do and always will.

All of my questions have been answered, thanks to all of you guys! I've got the future of my gearbox plotted out now.