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New Sniper and Rifle

4123 Views 22 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  JTFox
Hey guys!

Im new to the sniper spot on a team and im trying to learn as much as I can. I read through all the tips players have posted on these forums and they helped a lot! If anyone has any tips (tactics, ghillie crafting, ect.) for a new sniper please let me know by a post or pm!

Im currently using our teams Mauser SR Pro Tactical rifle, the bucking on it was torn in half before I had a chance to use it, so its a little hard for me to take full advantage of the pros that come with being a sniper. So im forced to keep my G36C on me when a situation turns really bad.

Now to the reason Im making this post in this section.
Im looking into buying my own sniper rifle and I have done a ton of research, but due to the fact im new to these types of guns I have probally over looked something. My budget is roughly $200. I plan on spending $100 on the rifle and $100 on the upgrades.

Heres what Ive came up with:
Gun:
JG BAR-10 w/Bi-Pod
$110 evike.com Sniper-JG-BAR10-Std
I really like the look of this rifle, the reviews and upgrades for this gun seem outstanding!

Upgrades:
VSR 10 Angel Custom Piston & Trigger Sear Set
$40 evike.com AC-VSR-01
VSR 10 Angel Custom Spring Guide*
$25 evike.com AC-VSR-02
VSR 10 Angel Custom Adv Piston*
$45 evike.com AC-VSR-10
VSR 10 Angel Custom SP170 spring (480-550)*
$15 evike.com AC-VSR-SP170

*I may swap out the spring guide, piston, and spring for this Angel Custom tune up kit to cut down the price. (so my wife dosent kill me)
VSR 10 Angeul Custom SP150 Tune Up Kit
$50 evike.com AC-VSR10-KIT01

Other variations of inital upgrades include a sear set, spring, tightbore barrel, and bucking.
Im thinking of using 0.36 BBs for long range, and it will keep my fps down. (Our teams field is 500 fps limit for sniper rifles)

Any suggestions please let me know!
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First, you don't need the dangerwerx arm unless your current arm brakes, in which case get one of Cheese's arms and put on your own nub. Second, for the r-hop you don't need to cut the barrel, that is for the ER-hop, which stands for extended r-hop. I have the r-hop with a nineball bucking for the air seal and it works great, although I have been wanting to get the er-hop for some time now. You only need to do the teflon mod on the cylinder head, and that is if your o-ring on it isn't doing it's job. Don't do the teflon on the bucking because the dental floss or better yet, anti-blowback rings are better (basically clamps down the bucking so no air can get out).

Cheese, I think you were looking for this:
http://airsoftsniperforum.com/showthread.php?t=4314
That's the upgrading procedure.

When you get a bar10 you should do the TDC mod to counter the right hooking issue. Even if you don't have that right curve issue it is still a good idea to do it in terms of consistency. I have a link to the guide I made in my description.
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Don't forget about a new bucking. Unless you want to get the r-hop right off the bat I would get the nineball bucking. Tht thing ges me a 100% air seal without any mods and before I got the r-hop it also gave a great consistency over a large range of fps.
If you plan on keeping the 45 degree sear system I would go for a lower spring. The 45 degree system normally can't handle springs that powerful. In fact I think it was designed to enforce the 1 joule limit in some places, although I could be wrong. I'm not saying it wouldn't work, I'm just saying you have a high possibility of slam fire and you will get increased wear on the sears.

One more thing, keep in mine that the Prommy barrels are the same as the Laylax barrel ad the Nineball barrel. I've been told they come from the same factory, just under different names. Don't hold me to that one though, get a second opinion on that.
With the stock trigger you can only use 45 degree sears. To use 90 degree sears, you need to get a better grigger entirely, like the z-trig. The prommy barrel is known for it's 6.03 barrel. The .01 gets better groupings at closer ranges, such as 100 fo, but the .03 gets better groupings at longer range, like 250+. I got the 6.03 EDGI but I with I had gotten the 6.03 Prommy because I would rather the longer range. As for the stock spring and spring guide, they will not break immediately but they will wear much faster with that strong off a spring. I can't give you any estimate because all parts are made differently, different people use their rifles differently, and weather conditions are always different. I posted the link to Cheese's upgrading procedure before, so read through that to find out what to upgrade first.
There are only 2 brands of z-trigs as far as I know, the Laylax one and the Avtion army one. The LL is between 200~250$ while the AA is 135$. Yet the AA z-trig is generally accepted to be of the same quality as the LL, although the AA piston that comes with it is much much much better than the LL piston. I am using the AA z-trig and piston and I am getting a 1--% air seal with it. The only thing you should be warned about with the AA z-trig is you will need to sand/file down the sides of the spring guide stopper to make it fit, although that only takes a minute. I get what you mean by getting all the good upgrades at once, that's what I tried to do, although it cost me a little over 500 so be prapared to make some compromises.
All matrix products tend to be absolute crap, or at least most. It is possible that you could get lucky and get something good but I wouldn't risk it. Stick with the tried and true method; the JG bar10.
For the barrel get a prommy, nineball, or laylax 6.03. Those barrels all come out of the same factpry and are exactly the same. They also have a decent price. For the r-hop, you don't make it, you buy it from hunterseeker armories (find it at the bottom of the page on Cheese's website). I was the same way about it how I wouldn't get the r-hop until I knew absolutely everything about it. One thing you will need to do if you get it is get a new nub for your hopup arm. The reason being you need to distribute all of the pressure from the arm evenly along the r-hop patch. I have been using nerf dart foam as wide as the arm and as long as the patch centered directly over the patch. You could also get the specialized m-nub from hunterseeker armories, but it does the same thing as nerf dart foam.
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