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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright guys, I am getting a hold of a WE 1911 soon, and its my new project for over the winter.

I plan on doing some upgrading and some modding to make this into a pretty nice pistol. From what I am told, its got some problems, but it will be a nice little challenge, and I got all fall/winter to do it.

First off, here is a link to the pistol: http://www.airsoftpost.com/product_info.php?cPath=21_45_252&products_id=27790

Here is my upgrade list at the moment: Note that I am not entirely sure what is and what is not compatible. I will be sending evike a message asking what works, but any help/advice/personnel experience from you guys would be great.

List:

http://www.airsoftpost.com/product_info.php?products_id=32277
Not to sure what all this means at the moment


http://www.airsoftpost.com/product_info.php?products_id=32759

http://www.airsoftpost.com/product_info.php?products_id=32660

http://www.airsoftpost.com/product_info.php?products_id=28513

http://www.airsoftpost.com/product_info.php?products_id=31787

http://www.airsoftpost.com/product_info.php?products_id=27267

http://www.airsoftpost.com/product_info.php?products_id=30101

Thats it at the moment. Been looking around for some other stuff. Mainly, I want to get this thing gas efficient and shooting smoothly.

Mag upgrades/mods

Apparently, some of the mags that I will be receiving have some leaking issues. Thats a given though with a we tech mag. I have seen some videos on how to make them more gas efficient, but have heard that sometimes the o rings need to be replaced.

Such as this: http://www.airsoftpost.com/product_info.php?products_id=27297

But what about this: http://www.airsoftpost.com/product_info.php?products_id=27367
Not exactly sure if I would need this or not. Would have to open up the mag to see whats up.

As you can tell, I am not a pro with gas guns. I have been researching for some time, but could use alittle guidance on the upgrade path, as well as helping me out with what some of these parts are.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Alright, thanks Dutton. The list I have is more of a rough draft for now. Just throwing some things together, that way I have a basic idea for what I plan on doing.

I look forward to your advice later in the week. ;)

Thanks
 

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Hell mod the hop up so you can use VSR style barrels, and toss in a 303mm inner barrel ;) With a long enough suppressor you should be able to cover the inner barrel. Then you can run a true long range pistol
 

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Ok, so here's what I've got to offer for right now.

The first link is a new loading chamber, which never hurts. Not sure about the WE brand, but I've never honestly had a specific need to replace them on any other pistol - it's just one of the those upgrades to upgrade...But it also comes with an enhanced recoil (probably a 150% spring) and hammer spring (again probably 150%). Those will give you a bit more and quicker recoil, as well as a quicker hammer reset when shooting, which can help. If you go that route, you won't need to get the items in your last link, as for only $10 more, I would probably go this route.

The next item is just a "bucking", which is the same as your second to last. I've had good luck with some CP parts in my WA, but never personally used either bucking you've got listed, so your guess is as good as mine in this area, take it your pick...

Next, I've never used a 6.01 in my pistols, tightest I've used is a 6.04 in my WA Para Ord. It's nice, but with the tighter bore, you're gonna be looking at a rise in velocity, which may or may not put you higher than you intend, so keep that in mind.

The threaded barrel is nice for a suppressor, especially if you run an extended barrel, but other than that it's just a novelty. So, depending on what route you want to go with that should be the only thing that dictates whether or not you go with the threaded barrel.

Lastly, I don't know specifically if the WE has a long or short spring guide. My WAs are half and half, but the longer spring guide (should be usable even if it comes stock with a short spring guide) will help stabilize the spring and give you a more 'crisp' recoil when shooting. It'll make it slightly more tedious to fully disassemble the gun, but nothing unbearable, maybe an extra 15-20 seconds.

Again, if you have any more questions, I'm more than happy to throw you what I know when I get a chance.

(Also, I was thinking there was another thread that I said I would give you info about when I got some time, but now that I've got the weekend, I can't remember what it was! If you could point me in that direction, I'll help you out there too.)

*Edit*
Nevermind, it was Woogie's M24 trigger thread. I'll pull one of mine apart tomorrow and help him out then.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Dutton, thanks so much for the help. That clears up alot of things.

I most likely will get a new list together based off of what you said and what suits me best. For example, I am actually looking for a non threaded barrel mainly because I do not plan on using a suppressor or extended tight bore barrel.

I am going to check with evike.com's tech team on whether or not certain parts with a particular length will fit. My guess is that my pistol takes parts that are meant for the 5.1 series WE and TM's. I am thinking this mainly because the dimensions of my WE are the same as a 5.1. So I will check up on that soon.

Again, thanks for the help. I will come back here with an updated list, and if I have any, more questions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Update!

Decided to do a dissemble of the pistol to see how things looked. Not good.

1. the little black piece that is screwed in with a small screw that keeps the inner barrel/hop up chamber connected to the outer barrel broke. It just snapped in half when I tried to tighten it back up.

2. The spring guide is way to small. When I opened it up, I saw that the recoil spring was all flimsy and jabbing at the side of the upper slide. Really bad. I am looking into getting a longer one.

3. I am missing the bushing housing (that goes over top of the barrel bushing. Simply just need to buy a new one. Nothing serious. Its not like I need this shooting by tomorrow or anything.

4. Mags have some serious leaking issue. I do not know where to start with this. New parts or just DIY mods? I will be doing some research on this soon.

Overall, I will need a few new parts. Especially the small black piece I mentioned above. That and my other upgrades and I should be good to go.

I contacted evike about what parts are compatible. Now I just need to ask them if they have the replacement parts I am looking for.

Edit: If anything was confusing, I will get some pics up. My gbb vocab is limited
I will have a new upgrade list together sometime today hopefully.

Edit Edit: Here is the new list:


http://www.airsoftpost.com/product_info.php?products_id=31787
http://www.airsoftpost.com/product_info.php?products_id=32277
http://www.airsoftpost.com/product_info.php?products_id=32759
http://www.airsoftpost.com/product_info.php?products_id=26348
http://www.airsoftpost.com/product_info.php?products_id=27297 (I might get a few of these)
http://www.airsoftpost.com/product_info.php?products_id=29957
http://www.airsoftpost.com/product_info.php?products_id=32660 (still looking at other barrel options (6.03mm or 6.04mm)
I no longer need a new outer barrel. The one I have will do.

Things I am still looking for:
1. upgrades for mags themselves (maybe just replacement parts)
They leak bad, and gas consumption and efficiency is terrible. I have a few DIY mods in mind. But could use guidance on what parts would benefit me the most.
 

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Depending on where the mag is leaking, assuming the bottom since you have the o-ring listed. What I've done on my leaking WA mags is replace the o-ring at the base of the mag with a brand new one, and go over to your local hardware or automotive store and pick up a tube of either clear or black silicon RTV. Apply the RTV around the o-ring (don't glob it on there but don't do it sparingly either.) Reassemble the the mag, and let it cure for 24 hours. Once the RTV cures, it'll harden to the extent that it should fill all leaking spots at the base of the mag. The downside is it takes a but longer to get the mag back apart, but nothing terrible and it should fix your leaks down there.

The other thing I would do is get some new flow valves and install them at the top of the mag. Look as some "efficiency" valves, I know they make them for both WA and TM (the WA valves likely won't fit, but the TM valves should), so you should be able to find them without too much hassle. What they do is direct the flow of gas out of the mag better, which cuts down on consumption.

Something like this for the valves is what I would use:
http://www.wgcshop.com/wgc2008/main/product_detail1.php?search_From=searchItem&item=NB-PT-TMGMV&search=special&rs=flow%20valve&catid=&cat=
http://www.airsoftpost.com/product_info.php?products_id=25901

You also might need to replace the fill valve as well, depending on where everything is leaking.
http://www.airsoftpost.com/product_info.php?products_id=27269
 

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Threaded barrels are problematic if they are not fixed since they are meant to move upward. Adding weight to this encourages wear. Try to find out if the Airsoft Surgeon or ProG4 fixed Hi-capa/1911 barrel is compatible. I would buy exclusively over seas with this many parts/much money. Try WGC and Redwolf. My 6.01 is a 6" and gives me a pretty good pump but I think it would be around 350FPS with .2g and propane. Of course, in joules, the converted velocity increases with heavier ammo.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Mateba, thanks for the advice. I actually have two outer barrels, one threaded and one that is not. I plan on using the one without threads so that should suffice. As for the 6.01mm barrel, still deciding. Thanks for the numbers and stats. That will help me in my decision. I do not want to push more than 350 and would like to keep it slightly lower than that. Good gas consumption and efficiency and accuracy are my main goals.

Dutton,

I took apart the magazine to see what was the deal, and the o ring at the base plate looked fine. Ill try out what you said, and see if that would help decrease the amount of leaks. As for the flow and fill valves, I will look into those as well. Thanks for the links.

Also, I took apart the magazine, and had a little trouble. The bottom part came apart easily. Note, I pushed out all three metal things that keep the mag together. I could not figure out how to take out the parts on the top. I got the magazine lip, spring, etc. out but the fill valve or flow valve (not sure which one) is still in there. I cant get it out. I just want to know so that I can take it out if I am going to replace it. I looked at some guides over at MIA (miles wrote one up on the WA pistols) and it does not tell me how to do this particular part.

Here is the pistol itself if anyone is interested.





And here is why I will need a new spring guide (longer).

 

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If its a singlestack 1911 the spring guide wont cause any issues at stock power levels and springs, Im not too sure what will happen with a heavier recoil and hammer spring.
My MEU has a threaded barrel, but i havent used a suppressor with it.
One thing you do not want to do is to short stroke it by using a spring too heavy for the gun to cycle completely. the hammer, when it is locked back by the slide, can catch the slide back by pushing up under the rounded nub at the end of the slide(look at the very rear of the slide at the back of the blowback housing)
Normally the spring will provide enough force to force the hammer down the 1/16th inch and let the slide return to battery, but if the slide is short stroking, such as is the case with a heavy spring or mag low on gas, it will catch the slide about an inch back. the solution would be to increase gas flow either through a heavier spring or valves on the mags.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well, it looks like the short spring guide already is causing some problem. Look at the pictures. That is what it looks like in its natural state. It is flimsy and gets stuck on the side of the slide. Regardless, I will not be using this at all until I put in the new parts, so it does not really matter.

Edit: Quick question:

http://www.airsoftpost.com/product_info.php?cPath=26_127&products_id=32759

Is the thing in the link above just the hop up rubber (bucking) or is it the hop up chamber. I do not think its the hop up chamber, but if it is let me know. If its just the rubber, would the original hop up chamber work?

The title on evike is confusing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Update!

I took apart the mags and took the large o ring off and lubed it up. Then I lubed the other parts a the bottom as well. I wanted to get the small o ring out, but did not know how. Any help would be appreciated. I fiddled with it for alittle, but nothing came out so I am lost :'(

I did the teflon tape mod around the large o ring as well. Put everything back together. Then I got to thinking. I have watched and read about guides stating that there are other places where the gas leaks out as well. The little rubber piece at the top (don't know the name) is one of those places. A guy showed a video where he used duct tape to seal off the edges where the gas would escape. I decided just to use the teflon tape and wrap it around. This would prevent the gas from escaping. Here is a picture:



Now here it is attached to the other bits and pieces:



The sides are now sealed off, and should prevent gas from being wasted.

Now with everything together.



Mainly, I just want to be able to get a solid mag out of each fill. I might be able to get more, but its not super important. I have heard bad things about WE tech mags, and if I can get it to holding gas properly for even just one whole mag (15 rounds) I will be happy.

Any other tips would be appreciated. Such as how to get the small o ring out at the bottom? I would like to get the fill valve out as well, but I do not know how to get that part out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Interesting. I have not actually used the mags. I am just basing this off what was said to be wrong with them from the original owner. After researching, it seemed like it had some major problems, but maybe its not as bad as it seems. Any chance have you dissembled one fully? I have looked for guides everywhere, and none strip a mag down completely.
 
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