[stormcrow]

Hey folks,

like I said in my introduction, I recently came across airsoft sniping and bought the above mentioned (MB06), which I take, is a clone of the Echo1 ASR (or other way around).

Anyway, I upgraded it with a kit, consisting of a steel cylinder, steel spring guide, hybrid piston and a M170 spring. After some fiddling (which resulted in a lot of learning about the inner of my new gun :yup: ), I managed to get it back together, only to encounter some problems:

To "chamber a round" is taking kind of an effort, which might not be surprising, given the stronger spring. But I fear, the gun or some parts of it won't take that very long. Has anyone used a 170 spring for a period of time without damaging the gun? Or should I stick with the M150 spring?

The other problem is much bigger though. I guess, I experience something u call slam fire, if I'm not mistaken. The gun fires on it's own, when I push the bolt to the closed position. I already ordered a CNC trigger kit from airsoftPRO.cz, will that take care of the problem or is there anything else I can do?
As far as I understand it, I have a 45 degree setup, but I don't exactly understand, what that means. How can I tell, when I disassemble my gun? The kit doesn't say anything about 45 or 90 degree - is that customizable anyway? Meaning, is there a way, to turn my 45 degree to a 90 degree setup? Was the MB06 a bad deal at all?

Any help would be appreciated. I already searched the forum, but there are too many threads, that come up (only containing some keywords, but without really explaining the things I need to know) - impossible to read them all. Of course, I read the ASR compendium, but my questions still persist.

One thing yet, does anyone use an other bipod, than the one, that comes with the gun? Because the socket is very special and I don't know, if there is a way to mount a short rail under the handguard - so maybe a barrel mounted bipod? I don't like it, if I press against the stock, that the gun flips over the bipod, as there is no fixation to it.

So thanks for any answers and have a good one,

cheers.

 

[Slayerk12]

I can't answer many of your questions because I'm still relatively new to sniping myself
But I can help with your question about the sear degree.
Okay so here's what a 90 degree sear looks like

See how the piece on the far right with the notch in it, sticks straight up?
That's called the piston sear and if it points straight up at than it's a 90 degree sear. If the piston sear is angled like this

Than it's a 45 degree sear.
You also need a piston that matches the sear angle. If the point on the piston were the sear catches is a straight little ledge than that's a 90 degree piston.
If it's a slanted ledge than that's a 45 degree piston. It's all about the angle at which the piston sear and piston engage. One last thing, you usually can't just stick a 45 degree piston sear in your trigger box. You probably would need to upgrade your other sears as well.
Well, I hoped that helped! I had some confusion about it at first as well so don't stress about it if it all seems rather daunting :tup:

 

[Desert Sniper]

To "chamber a round" is taking kind of an effort, which might not be surprising, given the stronger spring. But I fear, the gun or some parts of it won't take that very long. Has anyone used a 170 spring for a period of time without damaging the gun? Or should I stick with the M150 spring?

This is a result of the harder spring and the 45 degree sear. Due to how the 45 degree sear works it tends to push all of the pressure from the spring back up into the top of the cylinder making it difficult to push forward. The harder the spring the more pressure it pushes up.

As for the slam fire, you said you are getting a new trigger for it and that should help but is it a 45 degree trigger or a 90 degree? 90 degree triggers make cycling the bolt much more smooth and can hold more weight more effectively than a 45 degree trigger. You could also try putting a lighter spring in to see if that makes a difference because it could be that your 45 degree sear doesn't want to hold it, although I don't think that this is the problem it could make a difference.

Good luck, I don't know what to say about the bipod because I don't own one of these guns but I'm sure you can get someone else on here to chime in.

 

[stormcrow]

Firstly, thank you both very much for answering. Especially for clear things up about the 45 and 90 degree setup. I think, I get it now. And I'm pretty sure, the CNC trigger kit I ordered, will be a 45 degree setup too (but I will see). Although there is a tiny chance of beeing a 90 degree setup due to the fact, that it comes without further functionality of the safety switch (but maybe it's just for financal reasons). In the future I will surely pay attention to the kind of setup, a gun has (surely they won't come cheap).

I will try the M150 spring just to be sure, but bottom line I'd rather not downgrade the gun again (only, if there is no other way). Let's see, what the new trigger kit brings.
If there is someone, who can tell me something about converting the 45 degree setup to a 90 degree, just shoot!

Cheers

 

[MiqaFox]

The new trigger is a 90-degree setup, so you'll be fine.
I also think that the stock trigger is of a 90-degree setup. If that is the case there will be no issues during the installation(assuming that the upgrade kit also is a 90-degree setup).
If the current piston is made for a 45-degree setup you'll have issues.

 

[stormcrow]

The new trigger is a 90-degree setup, so you'll be fine.
I also think that the stock trigger is of a 90-degree setup. If that is the case there will be no issues during the installation(assuming that the upgrade kit also is a 90-degree setup).
If the current piston is made for a 45-degree setup you'll have issues.

You're probably right about the new trigger setup (looked at the picture again and if that's not just some show object, than it is a 90 degree). As to my rifle setup, that one is definitivly a [edit: 45 - wrong!] 90! degree. But according to the vendor, it's just plug & play. Maybe that is the reason, why there is no safety function in the CNC kit anymore. We'll see to that.

Cheers

 

[Desert Sniper]

Just so you know (if you don't already) you are going to need a 90 degree piston to go along with the 90 degree trigger. If you want you can mod the the 45 degree one you have to work with the 90 degree trigger.

 

[stormcrow]

Shipment of the trigger kit is to arrive today or tomorrow, I will have to find some time to try it all. But I'm definitively ready to modify the piston to work with the trigger, in case it doesn't. I'll have to see it all in front of me, to understand all that perfectly, but with your recent help I think I have a good foundation. I'll keep you posted.

Edit:

So the kit arrived and was installed into the gun. I'm glad to say, that slam firing isn't happening anymore (pheeww). It appears, I actually have a 90 degree setup, which comes as a little surprise. Or am I wrong here?

The sear with the notch can be pulled to the left approx. 45 degrees and to the right, if the trigger is pulled. That's why I thought it to be a 45 degree setup.

One thing to the MB06 Compendium, I bought an adapter for a silencer, meant for the L96, because in the thread it says, it would be compatible. Well, actually it's not. The inner thread of the barrel and the outer of the adapter aren't the same. I plan to cut the thread new, as it appears to be much more "flatter" than the one on the adapter.

So now I gotta run some tests, which could take a while, as I have to find a quite little spot in the woods to shoot that thing.

Cheers

 

[stormcrow]

Hey folks!

I just wanted to add a link with a also very good explanation (including pictures and explaining consequences as well as alternatives) for the 45 or 90 degree setup.
In case, someone is just as clueless, as I was. So here it is:

http://imageprocessor.websimages.com/width/525/crop/0,0,525x1468/www.airsoftsniperparts.com/shim%20trigger.gif of that website: Airsoft Sniper Parts UK ASPUK - VSR Triggers

I'm waiting for the tools, to re-cut the thread of my outer barrels tip to M24 x 1.5 CW to fit the L96 silencer adapter.
I also ordered a PDI hup-up chamber but still I'm not sure, what inner barrel to go with: 6.01 or 6.03 and which length (although I narrowed it down to 455 ... 509). I tend to take a MadBull or Prometheus (LayLax), but the MadBull only comes in Aluminum (and I want steel) and the Prom only in 6.03 (if I'm not mistaken). Plus, I don't seem to get my hands on any of those here in Germany, only PDI (which comes for 179 EUR, which is 242 bucks in USD).
I've read a lot about this, but there are pros and cons for each and every option. That leaves me all confused and I would appreciate some good arguments for one or another solution.

Cheers

 

[Slayerk12]

I would say go with the 6.03.
It will require less cleaning and less jams will happen than the 6.01.
It will probably give you better accuracy at distance than the 6.01, the 6.01 will give you better accuracy at close range.
The 6.01 will increase you're fps a little but that little increase isn't really worth the disadvantages.

Now I'll have to admit that I don't have much personal experience with this, this is mostly info I gathered online
Anyways, I hope it helps in your choice!

 

[stormcrow]

finally...

Hey folks,

it's been a while. Meanwhile I wasn't all lazy. In fact, I managed to get the gun back together with all parts but the hopup chamber and barrel. And I finally got the chance, to fire some dozen rounds.

Here is a short list, of what I did with the gun until now:

• put in an upgrade kit consisting of a steel cylinder, hybrid piston and steel spring guide (all by AirsoftPro)
• put in a M170 Spring (AirsoftPro)
• put in a trigger unit (AirsoftPro)
• re-cut the outer barrels tip to M24 x 1.5 CW to fit the L96 silencer adapter (funny part is, it still accepts the original part)
• did a paintjob for a little camo (ghillie wrap is coming too in the future)

I'm still using the scope, that came along with the gun, which is a Strike System 4x32. Nothing fancy, but okay for starters. Maybe later I buy something better. Next plans (after hopup-chamber and barrel) are to replace the pistol grip with a sniper style Panther grip. To do so, I have to build a new part, to which the grip is mounted. I plan to do that from a block of aluminum, which I bought. After that I'm planning to build an adapter, to accept standard AR-15/M16/M4 stocks for something more sniper-stylish. That's pretty much it. In the meantime, I hope to get the chance to "live-test" the gun in the field.
Thanks for the help so far.

Cheers

 

[stormcrow]

Hey folks,

in a spontaneous decision I bought a PHX hop up unit and mounted it with a TBB (6,03) of JBU in my gun. Didn't get to test fire it yet, but that is not the point here.

I have two questions:

1. I sealed the cylinder heads thread mit teflon. Are there other spots I can seal with that in order to make the performance more consistant? I read something about the nozzle tip, but I can't imagine, how that should work, because it's moving when cocking the spring and wiped off at the hup up.

2. Has anyone experience with the trigger unit of AirsoftPro? Mine seems to be awfull hard to pull. If dismounted, the trigger only has a short way of mybe a millimeter (or less) to move. In action there is no pressure point or trigger way whatsoever - it's just push very hard and bamm. Has a bad impact on the shooting results. So my question really is: Is that normal or is there anything I can do about it?

Thanks a lot for answers.

Cheers

 

[p2skater1]

For number one, you can wrap Teflon tape half way in you bucking/barrel. It helps w/ air seal. Also you can get the King Arms Marui Air Seal Bucking.

 

[stormcrow]

I finished my work on the grip and stock, so now the gun is full M16/M4 compatible in relation to that parts. I installed a sniper grip and a foldable, collapsible full metal stock and wrapped some isolation and tape around it for some comfort. The guns length can now vary between 870 mm (excluding the scope, because I will mount qd fasteners to take it off easily) and 1290 mm. With bipod mounted it has a pretty good balance now. It's heavier than before due to the stock but it feels way better this way.

Last part is to reinstall the PDX hop up chamber and the IR-hop up, but for now I can go with the stock internals temporarily.