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I believe the letter "i" is capitalized when it stands alone....Or at least that is what I learned in first grade.

Please start capitalizing your "i"s. It would make me very happy. :-*
 

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Thank you for fixing your post, you have made Fuzz happy ;) . Now, to answer your question, I personally would not get an illuminated reticle. This is mainly because when you are shooting at night, or in a very dark situation, the illumination will ruin you night vision. Also, the reticle, when illuminated, makes your eyes focus on the brightness of the reticle, not your target. The scope that you showed might work, but I would suggest something a little bit better kind of like this: http://www.airsoftgi.com/product_info.php?cPath=36_117&products_id=3945 . I know this is a lot more expensive, but most of the people here can attest the the abilities of the scope. And, yes, it does have illumination (if you want it). I am not saying that illumination is bad, especially when in a forest with a thick canopy, but for night ops I would suggest actual night vision or just an old fashion flashlight. As for the laser, a sniper really shouldn't have a need for it as it can easily give away your position, but if you do really want one, keep it on your sidearm.
 

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Well the nighvision goes if you turn the reticle to bright. I can turn on my albar 6 scope the brigthnes just that I could se it glowing. Also the there is a reason wyh illuminated reticles use red light. Not just that it looks cool, but red light is more nightvision friendly.

I would suggest that you go with the scope with a huge objective. The scope might be bulky, but bigger the objective lighter the picture will be, in theory. It also debends who manuafactores the scope and the lenses. Tasco and UTG have no chance against like Schmidt&Bender or Zeiss.
 

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What I was reading online that big objective lens helps at night up to a certain point by means of the exit pupil size (I believe the article said 5-7mm was the max a pupil could absorb). After that, it just waists light as your pupil is simply not big enough to absorb that much light.
The exit pupil on the scope posted was 8mm, bigger than the max your pupil could absorb. Is this theory correct?
Here is the article I was reading;
http://www.shootingtimes.com/optics/opticpupil_061907/
 

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Pretty much covered in above post except that I know some optics are filled with a gas which creates somewhat of a green hue, especially at night and create an optical effect of hi-lighting the edges of the viewed environment. Not real night vision. I owned a set of bino's a few years ago when I was in the army and they worked real well. The type of gas they were filled with escapes me now and I have been unable to search it out.
 

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Yeah, man. I know. I throw the "It also depends who manufactures the scope and the lenses. Tasco and UTG have no chance against like Schmidt&Bender or Zeiss." Comment cause the quality of the lenses do matter. Example a Leupold 1-4 x 20 would out run the tasco 4-16x 50 AOE in brightness. Would not recommend people to buy a realsteel scope for a airsoft rifle.
 

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Try reading this.
http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/index.php?s=cf3e601857fe08c63b37dba1b1fcaa0c&showtopic=183985
You will have to have an account there but with all the info it is worth it.

My scope has an illuminated reticle but to me it is not practical. The reason being is when it is turned on the red light shines and illuminates your face. Which is very easy to spot on a black night. This might just happen with my scope (Zos 10-40x60). I know a guy who has a night vision scope and will ask about it and edit my post.

Pkidd

Edit:
Here is his scope: http://www.amazon.com/Aries-Mk-390-Paladin-Magnification-Vision/dp/B000NGP1SM

I love mine, however, the thing anyone buying NV must realize is that you have to get it properly focused for the range you're going to be using it at in order for it to be most effective. With that said...in night games...it's like cheating. I f'ing love it. Also, getting used to using your IR illuminator takes some practice. If it's far away you might want a higher power focused IR illuminator, however, when there is a lot of brush and foilage, an IR light will just green out your scope from reflections on the leaves/limbs/etc.
 

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I have a 3-12x50 scope with illuminated reticle (11 different brightness levels), so my face won't be illuminated when I turn it on 1 (least bright).
The illumination is nice at night when you can't see your reticle, it also works when you can't see your reticle when aiming at shadows during daylight.

I also have a 4x20 scope with nothing special, it's just 4x20


There is a major difference when I look through them, even in daylight.

The x50 scope is much brighter then the x20 scope,
this is because it catches more light reflected by what you are looking at, even at night, because of the bigger diameter of the lens.

If you look through the x20 scope, it's like someone put sunglasses in front of it, it's not as bright as a bigger diameter scope because it catches less reflected light. This makes it very hard to see at night, you try and see something at night with sunglasses on!

So if you play at night a lot, try and get a big diameter scope and if you want it illuminated, try and get one with multiple levels of brightness for the illumination.

I got my 3-12x50 scope from http://www.sutter-gmbh.de/xtcommerce/index.php?language=en
It was only 50 euros including shipping costs, which is rather cheap I think for such a fine scope. But I'm not sure if they ship to the US.
 
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