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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What considerations/modifications should be taken before changing to a LiPo battery?

I am rebuilding my G36c and am thinking about installing a MOSFET and a 11.1 LiPo. Right now I'm running a 9.6v 2400mAh battery and its been awesome, but its a little big and id like to get the ROF increase if i dont do the semi conversion...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
well, IF i dont do the semi selector mod (im not planning on going much over 400) i kind of want the ROF increase. What im really looking for is if I need to change out any wiring or a specific motor or something like that... Thanks for the link though!
 

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I don't think you need to change the wiring, but you will have to strengthen the gearbox if you're using a 11.1 Lipo.

I'll leave the details to more experienced ppl to discuss as I am still using a 9.6v NiMH on my G36E.
 

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You'll need to correct your angle of engagement to compensate for high torque or high speed (regardless if its just in semi). You basically shim your piston out to away the gears a better angle to catch the last tooth. You'll need to remove the second tooth and possibly all of the third.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yeah, im planning to put in a MOSFET when i rebuild the whole thing, as well as doing the entire DMR guide that Vindi posted... I'm just not sure what is already in there since its been a very very longtime since I took apart my G36. Right now im running a 9.6 5000mAh... not 2400 lol... its kinda massive
 

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As has already been discussed you will need to make sure your AoE is spot on or you will be replaceing your piston in no time at all.

You also want to consider fitting Deans connectors, especialy if you plan to use an 11.1v, as the current draw from one of these will make a tamiya connector get damn hot damn quick.

And yes you should also run a MOSFET at the very least, an AB MOSFET is even better. If you don't your trigger contacts will burn out in pretty short order and you will never realise the full potential of the spangaly new battery you just fitted ;)

Re wireing, it depends on who produced it, if its TM or CA then the wireing will be sufficient..... just! They use high density core cable which is just man enough to take the current draw. If its a JG, change it for some quality 16 or 18 gauge as the stock JG stuff has the electrical conductivity of damp string :-/ To be on the safe side, just change it ;)
 

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Good stuff


Besides electrical concerns, switching to an 11.1v LiPO requires you to make sure that your gearbox is very mechanically efficient. These folks already touched on that by advising you to make sure to adjust your AoE, which is probably the most important mod besides a good shimming job.

Most guns come stock with very poor mechanical efficiency - bad AoE, terrible shimming, loose bushings, etc... and that's OK when you're running an 8.4v nimh, and usually you can get away with a 9.6v nimh or even a 7.2v LiPO because those batteries don't push your system too hard, and there's not enough stress to do damage. Getting your gun "LiPO ready" is all about tightening and tuning everything up so that it doesn't rattle around and destroy itself when the huge power increase sends everything flying. An 11.1v LiPO will push your GB much harder than a lighter battery, and so you need to make sure it can stand up to the additional stress. Most guns will do fine if you just do the standard mods and fixes listed above, and make sure your wiring can handle it.
 

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bobgengeskahn said:
what is involved in correcting the AoE? is that the same as short stroking? im wiring my MOSFET tonight and will probably end up gettin the lipo in the next week or two.
Somewhat. You'll first want to remove the second to last tooth on the piston, from there, you'll want to shim the piston head so that it the piston lines up exactly with the first tooth on the sector gear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Dutton said:
Somewhat. You'll first want to remove the second to last tooth on the piston, from there, you'll want to shim the piston head so that it the piston lines up exactly with the first tooth on the sector gear.
sooo... is that what Vindi was basically doing with the pad on the front of his piston in the DMR thread? I didnt exactly understand what that was doing so I didnt do that part of the mod when I had my gearbox open since there was the "catastrophic failure" warning if you did it wrong lol.
 
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