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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
vindicareassassin and i derailed a bit in the ER-hop thread so we figured a new thread about custom nozzle-designs are in order!

Have anyone made any extensive testing or are you all running stock profile?

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-Copy of the post i mentioned in the ER-hop thread.

Here's a kinda sketchy explanation of how i lathe my nozzles - dont seem to do much when you're in the 350fps range but once you get closer to 500fps and above this REALLY helps with both consistancy and bb-placement between the rubber-lip and inner barrel.

first 2 pictures are of a standard nozzle and how it looks inside

Numbers correspond to the numbers on the image below.

1. flat surface against flat surface, creates non constant-wear and tear on the hopup rubber since it's flexing before snapping over to the 40 degree angled part of the nozzle.

2. Once the nozzle is pushed in as far as the actuall rubber will alow you're not really using all of the buckings available contact-surface-

3. Here is how i shape my nozzles, when the bb passes the buckings seal-ring the nozzle smoothly glides into the "chamber" and actually pushes the bb further into the barrel making it seated within the barrel rather than centered on the nozzle.

4. here is how it all looks when compressed, note the ammount of contact surface compared to the top view. AND last but not least, there's an actual STOP to the nozzle, creating a constant seal and constant BB-placement in the chamber every time =)

if we can find consistancy in the way every part moves every cykle i figure this must be one of the more important ones!!



This does (needless to say) require that the tappetplate is modded for extra travel into the rubber.
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Im all for beveling the end of the air nozzle to give the bb a seat to enhance loading and predictability as the bb travels down the barrel.As for seal,far easier to shim the air nozzle to the hopup.Its been my experience shimming in conjunction with milling the tappet face is a substantial step forward in airseal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Im all for beveling the end of the air nozzle
by that do you mean the inner radious of the nozzle at the front?

.As for seal,far easier to shim the air nozzle to the hopup.Its been my experience
can you explain how you do that? im not really following where the shims comes into play.

thanks =)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
hmm i unno, feels like spraypaint must be one of the worst materials to build upon a nozzle from? i'd rather superglue the heck out of it and then lathe it down to the shape i needed if i was to build upon the plastic of a nozzle - how long ago was it that you did this and how has it held up?

vindicareassassin is doing something similar with gluing o-rings to the tip of the nozzle and the coating it with nail-varnish to make secure the seals - as any nose-job of a nozzle this requires the tappetplate to go back further.

i've been thinking about buying longer nozzles, a whole bunch of them and then just start experimenting, how the bb is seated in the barrel before launch must make a huge difference!
 

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.

how the bb is seated in the barrel before launch must make a huge difference!
Not as much as you might think actualy, but more with a conventional nub rather than anything extended.

You could get a variable nozzle length for the VSR years ago and the results of testing were (all with a normal nub style as ER/long hops hadn't been dreamt of back then).....

if you load the round short of the nub the bb was more accurate side to side but it over hopped and lost distance rapidly.

Put the round hard up against the nub ther was a slight tendancy for the occasional flier but you had a flat flight path and the range extended a bit more (obvious realy :doh:)

Not sure if any of that is relavent to what we are trying to achieve here, but thought I'd mention it just incase it is :shot:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
this is good info, a bolt platform makes for good testing when it comes to bb-placement however the aeg barrels and hopup buckings look different with that extra lip towards the barrel creating a "ditch" for the bb to end up in, this bunched up with the 45degre angle most barrels have at the hop-end of it creates a slightly more coarse starting-point for the bb compared to a bolt.

still however, very useful info! thanks mate

i guess we need to find all these little bits and pieces to get an overall improvement since there is no magical mod to convert the aeg's to bolt-performance hehe
 

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Well to be fair mate, the way I veiw it is that if we strive to make our AEGs as much like a BA as possible in everyway, apart from the self loading bit :tup:, and utilise the tech stuff used to make them perform at their optimum, we should be some where close to getting the same performance..... in theory anyway :shrug: and its the tiny little things that often make the biggest difference to achieving that goal, it just takes a fair bit of this..... :mad: ...... a reasonable amount of..... :doh: and the occasional bit of..... :shrug: and :lmao: to achieve this and get this from other players on the field..... :bow:














(God I love these new smileys!!!! :hehe:)
 

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hmm i unno, feels like spraypaint must be one of the worst materials to build upon a nozzle from? i'd rather superglue the heck out of it and then lathe it down to the shape i needed if i was to build upon the plastic of a nozzle - how long ago was it that you did this and how has it held up?

vindicareassassin is doing something similar with gluing o-rings to the tip of the nozzle and the coating it with nail-varnish to make secure the seals - as any nose-job of a nozzle this requires the tappetplate to go back further.

i've been thinking about buying longer nozzles, a whole bunch of them and then just start experimenting, how the bb is seated in the barrel before launch must make a huge difference!
Its not actually paint,but a clear coat sprayed over paint to make it more durable.I have applied this about 2 months ago,and after 2k rounds or so it srtill seems to be holding up.
Orings on an airnozzle is a fine idea,but building up the entire outside diameter of the airnozzle is much easier,and ensures consistant airseal along the entire nozzle.

I was also considering trying clear coat hardner to achieve the same result.This is a polymer added to clear coat to make it more resistant to scratches,chipping,etc in painting cars.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
when you do that are you only referring to the front part of the nozzle or the entire nozzle? i mean any air leaking is escaping down the up-let for the bbs anyways so i dont see the point in spraying the entire nozzle other than maybe better centering in the hopup-house - not trying to sound negative, just trying to figure out the workings of the mod in question =)
 

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when you do that are you only referring to the front part of the nozzle or the entire nozzle? i mean any air leaking is escaping down the up-let for the bbs anyways so i dont see the point in spraying the entire nozzle other than maybe better centering in the hopup-house - not trying to sound negative, just trying to figure out the workings of the mod in question =)
I sprayed only the portion of the nozzle that enters the loading chamber portion of the hopup.It is this portion of the nozzle,and the loading chamber I took my calipre measurements from.I apparently neglected to make this apparent in the link I provided.I honestly should have as that info is an important point

If nothing else this mod worked for me.It is a very easy mod to do,and is easily removed with emery cloth without fear of damaging anything.You have nothing to loose by trying it.Prohaps you could even go so far as improving it.
 

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I have been thinking, we should make a thread where everyone would measure their nozzles and send it up.
So if X nozzle is 2mm longer than Y nozzle, and I would have a Y gun and I would need a nozzle, but Y nozzle is out of stock. Then I could get a X nozzle and use that. (may need sanding)
Or is it that simple?
 

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I think on ASR an attempt was made to create a parts compatibility index of sorts.A very daunting task.It would be very cool to have such an index,and it would make parts selection much easier.
 
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