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Objectively, what is the best base AEG for a DMR/Highly accurised AEG

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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have had an SL9 kicking around for a couple of years and the final prognosis from my tech was that it simply wasn't worth bothering with all the necessary purchases and time investment required to arrive at a suitable standard. That being the case I have consigned the whole thing to the dustbin, with the exception of the hop chamber and MOSFET which I may, or may not reuse at a later point.

So.....following a number of discussions with friends, and some inspiration from this board I have decided to proceed with an AEG project, be that in the form of a highly accurised "Field" AEG (1.1j for the UK) or a DMR (1.49j to 1.88j depending on which site/field I play on). To this end, and in spite of my usual inclination to rush forward blindly following my heart first, I thought it might be wise to do a little more research than is my want and ask a couple of questions I hadn't previously considered.

I have owned a number of DMRs in the past (M14, SR-25, MSG-90, CA-33) and I am familiar with the upgrade routes required, as well as the part that more modern technology would have to play in the project but one factor I hadn't considered to any great extent is that some platforms may be inherently more, or less accurate overall, owing to the rigidity of construction and stabilisation, ready compatibility with more upgrade parts and probably a couple of other attributes I hadn't examined.

In your opinion, is there an AEG platform that performs better overall than others?

A few factors to consider: I will be dropping a MOSFET into the gearbox, and either a Begadi or MAXX hop chamber/Edgi barrel combination for the heart of the project. I'll almost certainly use a Warhead motor but I'm not overly concerned about gears/piston/cylinder/piston head as they can be changed out as required. If I go for the DMR route, I will want a quick-change gearbox and ideally all metal construction throughout........other than that, my only real thought was an SVD-style as the larger volume cylinder and hop chamber are both hard to beat.

But, I'm open to feedback and suggestions.
 

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I'd say go with an M4 or SR-25, and make a point of ensuring the outer barrel is well attached, and that the inner barrel and hop chamber are stable.
For the inner barrel, wrap it with Teflon tape and compact it for removing slight wobble, and for anything significant use painters tape with Teflon over that.
For the hop chamber, you'll want to replace the tensioning spring with a stack of O-rings over the barrel if possible, as this will press the hop against the gearbox very securely.
That only does forward and backward movement, so you will want to use more Teflon tape or painters tape wrapped around the round part of your chamber to remove up or down movement, which will usually come from magazines.
And then you'll want to glue some sort of plastic or metal shim material to the two alignment wings on the chamber, and the fin where the hop arm is stationed inside. This will remove rotational movement, resulting in your BBs hopefully not spreading off right and left as much. As for the chamber itself, I have a friend who has both the old MAXX ME and the new one for HPA guns, and he says that the new one is worse due to the nubs.
I own the MAXX ME and sort of like it, but I will admit it is overpriced.
I do suggest that you still buy the ME, and do it now before they go away, as the main advantages are the very stable clip which I don't see any other places.
You'll also want to shim the arm on that, and fill the cavity in the nub with epoxy and mould it around the arm to further rigidize things.
I've done this, and it's an improvement over the rubber buffer thing they normally come with.

Other than that, I'd look at making the tappet plate as rigid as possible, and align the nozzle to the bucking entrance as well as possible, and adjust the nozzle length to the correct length for your setup.
Another thing that could be done is to get a spacer to go inside your chamber, that would have an ID of the OD of a G36 nozzle, and would ideally be made of smooth plastic.
You would then get a G36 nozzle and shorten it to the right length, being sure to taper the tip so it pushes BBs further into the hop.
This will aid in accuracy a good bit.

Really, all that needs to be done to any gun is just tighten tolerances and make things rigid and smooth, which is a bit tedious when dealing with shitty toy guns.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have done all the hop shimming in the past, not tried o rings to replace the barrel tension spring however. Previously I did also use an o ring to tension the normal hop wheel on an m4 style chamber and that worked brilliantly- hitting CDs consistently at 40m with shimming and a good barrel.

Perhaps it is time I owned an M4 as parts are certainly commonplace 😁

Excellent food for thought, cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Man, the world economy is making it hard to get anything decent in the UK, and what there is has had its price YOINKED right up...

I'm gravitating towards an M14 SOCOM with a Lambda one barrel, Maple Leaf MR-Hop, and Omega nub. There are probably improvements to be made here BUT.....I really do not want the hassle of R-hops, ER hops, or any other rather more intricate system when I can get the majority of the performance from a drop-in. As it stands, the only barrel I can pick up locally (I prefer to support friends where possible) is a 469mm, so I'll throw a Type0 Cylinder onto the shopping list.

Why the change of heart?

I don't need a teenage dream, I just need an M14. That, and I don't like the look of any M4s in my price range :)

(Or maybe a Da Vinci)
 

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My vote is M4. It’s just the easiest to work on, fit upgrades to, and find quality parts for. V7 parts are far rarer.

SR-25s with a true V2.5 GB net you a bit more cylinder volume, but you have to deal with the lengthy piston, unusual gears that are both annoying to replace and give optical mosfets trouble at times, and a couple of other parts like the tapped plate that can be annoying. The gears themselves aren’t the issue, it’s just the annoyance of finding a decent aftermarket set that meshes well, etc, etc.

I actually just ruined a couple of parts in an A&K SR-25 build—no clue how it happened, but the bevel stripped one tooth off the spur, the pinion stripped some teeth off the bevel, and the bevel axle actually bent itself, ruining a metal bushing in the process. Yep, steel bushing gone. Everything else is fine though.

One note; on most AEG barrels/M4 hop units, Maple Leafs don’t actually fit properly with a C-clip. The front end of the rubber is fat. You can file down the front of a barrel, to make it fit, but it is a hassle. Supposedly Maple Leaf barrels fit their rubbers fine, but I have not personally confirmed this.

On a true DMR build you’ll also be opening it up a lot, hence my support for M4. You also have lots of room to work with and stabilize the hop unit. And, just to throw this out there, M4 nozzles are
pretty short, so you don’t lose much pressure between the cylinder and the nozzle, which is important for voluming and joule creep.

If accuracy is your goal, don’t go far over 400mm unless you want to use .25s. On heavier BBs + a standard AEG cylinder you’ll run out of cylinder volume, and may end up creating vacuum pressure within your barrel and messing with your consistency/FPS.

Longer cylinders should be okay with something like your 469mm, but I suggest you read up on voluming and how it affects your FPS, and how you choose a cylinder and barrel length, etc.

As a side note, accuracy does not necessarily increase once you get over a 300mm or so barrel. 300mm is enough length for the BB to stabilize, so after that you actually have an increased chance of the barrel not being perfectly straight (if you’re not using a nice barrel. Lambda should be good). In fact, if you were running very heavy BBS with a standard full cylinder, you might use a 300mm in your DMR for optimum efficiency.

And, of course, this is all my experience, my opinions, and my suggestions. Airsoft is 25% having the right items and 65% fitting the parts by hand and modifying them to work right! 10% is for luck of the draw and QC shenanigans.

If you love the idea of an M14 or G3, go for it! Modify it, break it, work on it, and report back here to share with us how it went!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
I understand joule creep and volume ratios, don't worry - but thanks for taking the time to point it out (y)

Da Vinci or Lambda, not decided yet and probably a MAXX me but again, not decided. M4s are super common but I really dislike most designs in my price range and I don't really want to worry about stocks and externals as well as internals. If I find a nice, sleek and simple design I may go for it.
 

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The Double Eagle Aeronox thing is what I told my friend to buy, and it's a very good gun. I'd have gotten the plastic handguard model myself, but oh well.

I also have a CYMA Platinum(HPAed in 2019) and that gun is barely worth it at best unless you get it for like 200 bucks new.
The mosfet is alright but not great, the chamber sucks(in my model, may be different) and the handguard attachment is god awful. The finish is also not that nice. The Double Eagle has at least a rotary chamber, which will last but you may want to replace it, a cool looking grip, handguard, and stock, and has a nice smooth profile barrel compared to the Government profile one you generally see. I bet that with $120 in stuff you could get it to be seriously solid, and with a new motor it would probably be even faster.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
That is a consideration Ron, I have to admit. Of the three nearest sites to me, one allows 1.48j (400fps with a .2g) the next is 1.67, and the last is 1.87. The latter two are where I would consider fielding a "proper" DMR, but If I buy one for two sites, I may as well get a quick change gearbox of some sort and use it at all three, albeit with different effective margins.
 

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For my stuff, I've found that 1.8J with semi only is superior to anything weaker, and contends with the 2.7J guns at my field.
I can shoot fast as hell since I run HPA though, which can only really be mimicked by an unreliable AEG on 14.8V batteries.
I'd run actual DMR or sniper class (same power, ridiculous) at my field, but I need a "certification" that would require a 3-4 hour round trip and $30 to stand around and listen to the ref for an hour, then get home having wasted a lot of gas, $30, and half the day.

For the UK, if it's semi only but no ROF cap for semi, I'd max the power out and just shoot normally when you felt like it, and fingerbang when you felt like it. If you look at the current MTW gameplay, that's about what I do and what I recommend aiming for.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
We have ROF caps - or at least, locally. It's one shot, let the BB arrive at the target, hit or miss, then you are allowed a second. Ideally, a MOSFET with a 3-second delay and increasingly this is becoming commonplace to prevent the ridiculous spamming of shots from further back than a "Field/Assault" AEG can reach. There are still some fields (probably 50/50) that allow you to spam with a DMR but for the sake of gameplay that is becoming a thing of the past.

Up to 60m or so, an AEG (proper) is king.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
So...

E&C.Specna Arms use these as an OEM, and I have heard from some sources that they are solid.....but I haven't got any personal experience, and I don't know anyone locally that I can ask. That being the case, I thought I'd ask you guys what you've heard, or perhaps what your experiences are.
 
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