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Objectively, what is the best base AEG for a DMR/Highly accurised AEG

  • M4/M16/Armalite style

    Votes: 9 69.2%
  • G3

    Votes: 2 15.4%
  • SVD/SVD-S

    Votes: 2 15.4%
  • M14

    Votes: 3 23.1%
  • G36

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Other

    Votes: 0 0.0%
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My vote is M4. It’s just the easiest to work on, fit upgrades to, and find quality parts for. V7 parts are far rarer.

SR-25s with a true V2.5 GB net you a bit more cylinder volume, but you have to deal with the lengthy piston, unusual gears that are both annoying to replace and give optical mosfets trouble at times, and a couple of other parts like the tapped plate that can be annoying. The gears themselves aren’t the issue, it’s just the annoyance of finding a decent aftermarket set that meshes well, etc, etc.

I actually just ruined a couple of parts in an A&K SR-25 build—no clue how it happened, but the bevel stripped one tooth off the spur, the pinion stripped some teeth off the bevel, and the bevel axle actually bent itself, ruining a metal bushing in the process. Yep, steel bushing gone. Everything else is fine though.

One note; on most AEG barrels/M4 hop units, Maple Leafs don’t actually fit properly with a C-clip. The front end of the rubber is fat. You can file down the front of a barrel, to make it fit, but it is a hassle. Supposedly Maple Leaf barrels fit their rubbers fine, but I have not personally confirmed this.

On a true DMR build you’ll also be opening it up a lot, hence my support for M4. You also have lots of room to work with and stabilize the hop unit. And, just to throw this out there, M4 nozzles are
pretty short, so you don’t lose much pressure between the cylinder and the nozzle, which is important for voluming and joule creep.

If accuracy is your goal, don’t go far over 400mm unless you want to use .25s. On heavier BBs + a standard AEG cylinder you’ll run out of cylinder volume, and may end up creating vacuum pressure within your barrel and messing with your consistency/FPS.

Longer cylinders should be okay with something like your 469mm, but I suggest you read up on voluming and how it affects your FPS, and how you choose a cylinder and barrel length, etc.

As a side note, accuracy does not necessarily increase once you get over a 300mm or so barrel. 300mm is enough length for the BB to stabilize, so after that you actually have an increased chance of the barrel not being perfectly straight (if you’re not using a nice barrel. Lambda should be good). In fact, if you were running very heavy BBS with a standard full cylinder, you might use a 300mm in your DMR for optimum efficiency.

And, of course, this is all my experience, my opinions, and my suggestions. Airsoft is 25% having the right items and 65% fitting the parts by hand and modifying them to work right! 10% is for luck of the draw and QC shenanigans.

If you love the idea of an M14 or G3, go for it! Modify it, break it, work on it, and report back here to share with us how it went!
 
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