[Killer]

So, I've got a MB08, which is a pain in the butt-stock to get barrelspacers for, or even to make some for. (Reason: Fluted tapered barrel)

So i was thinking... If I just make a plug in front of my hopup unit, and stick my barrel through it, and I just stuff the whole gap between the outer and inner with Paper Mache (for those who dont know what this is, its basically paper pulp made from ...paper...and wallpaper glue).

Stuff should get hard, but best of all, would leave a smooth surface so I can take my barrel out, should I need to.

I tend to keep away from the WAX barrel spacer, since I fear it melting on me in hot climates.

Pro's:
-easy to do
-cheap
-one piece
-smooth finish if I wiggle the barrel back and forth
-heat resistant

Con's:
-messy?
-not water proof (but who cares inside the barrel?)

Anyone had experience with this? might be trying this week, since i'm prepping for a special sniper weekend. pics will follow of course

 

[MiloXC3]

I don't see why you shouldn't be able to do it, so give it a go.

If you do, perhaps take photos as you go and then upload then along with a how-to?

 

[solarisjock]

one thing you might want to do is coat your barrel in some grease so it will not stick to the paper mache

 

[Killer]

Hmm good tips. Gonna try and fix some materials today and see if i can pull it off before the weekend!

 

[lulukchoo23]

Perhaps you could shove a wedge/dowel over the inner barrel at the muzzle whilst making your paper mache barrel spacer so, once it hardens, you have an LRB and a paper spacer!

(aka variation of this mod: http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/showthread.php?t=5055)

Killing 2 stones with 1 bird.

Yes. You read that correctly.

 

[Masterjuggler98]

In that case you might want to put the lube inside the outer barrel instead of outside the inner barrel if you want to pull the entire assembly out. It is probably better to keep the spacer on the barrel so it maintains a tight grip on the barrel and you can push it in like a wedge into the outer barrel, and have it clamp down on everything. If you let the inner barrel slide out of the spacer it would make the spacer loose and allow for more vibrations.

 

[Killer]

Though i like the LRB idea alot, i thought that a LRB system needed to be tuned to a certain bend? I would assume that any bend would have a positive effect though.

That, and i would have to need a certain way to measure that the LRB makes my barrel bend straight down, and not at an angle. Also, my PDI Raven barrel is probably not going to bend that easily i think...

 

[Masterjuggler98]

If it is a bull barrel then you shouldn't bend it. Bull barrels hold their bend a bit because of the added metal. I have an EDGI bull barrel and I had to polish the normal barrel to LRB it. I haven't LRB'd it yet, I'm waiting to ER-hop it.

It is not that hard to keep the barrel straight when bending it down. Read the wax spacer LRB mod guide and see how Rab1515 did it.

 

[Killer]

I just finished tearing paper (that was a pain in the ass to do btw...)
and while its soaking, i'm looking into LRB. Unfortunatly, my silencer adaptor wont allow for any bending, since it fits rather snug around my inner barrel.

gonna tweak my Hopup unit a bit, and tomorrow i'll make some pics of the barrelmod!

 

[Masterjuggler98]

The LRB requires you to either use no muzzle cap or adapter, or to dremel it down a bit to allow the barrel to move down. And can't wait to see how the barrel spacer works out for you.

 

[edk89]

I have an mb08 also, and for my barrel spacers I used some rubber things I found at the airsoft site I play at. I think it might be from a grenade launcher or something like that, I'll see if I can get some pictures up to show you what I used, and maybe someone can help identify what they really are.

 

[Killer]

Ok so yesterday i got busy on the barrel spacer.

DISASTER!

The mix has to be very watery to let it pour into the space between the inner and outer barrel. needless to say, this gave the mess of the century. pulp everywhere, and sticky as hell.

i finally got it all in there, and left it to dry on a heater.

Next morning: Orange goo coming out of the spacer area. I think this is rust, and that would really mess stuff up. I'm going to check it out when i get home.

Advice: Stick with the wax barrel. i know i'm gonna.

pics comming soon.

 

[silentball]

Wouldn't be easier to ask a aftermarket company that already does spacers to make commercial versions for you?

They are not available because no one asked for them. Look at the all the companies making spacers for VSR10 an APS2.

Heck, ask you local member here, "Ranger"

 

[Killer]

Luckily the rust was from the silencer adapter and not the barrel

Decided to do a paper barrel spacer for now. I'm going to try to mod my silencer adapter to allow for barrel flexing. (if it only is a few mm, I've got some room to play with)

Next step: LRB, and modding an R-hop into a PDI hopup unit.

@silentball: Thats quite a good idea. I'm going to write X-fire when i get home.

 

[Masterjuggler98]

Just a point on the wax barrel spacer. You'd have to get it pretty hot outside for it to actually melt in your rifle. Normal paraffin wax from a candle that stands on it's own (not in a jar) melts between 130 and 150 degrees Fahrenheit. You shouldn't even be outside in the first place at these temperatures. If you do use a wax spacer, you don't have to worry about it melting in your rifle.

 

[Killer]

Would letting your rifle sit in the sun for about an hour or two reach that? (i'm terrible with temperatures...)

 

[lupin2000]

Mabey on a 100+ day, if you let it sit in direct sunlight for hours, it might start to melt, but it takes a constant high temperature to fully melt the wax. I make candles and it takes me about 30 minutes using a double boiler to get my wax to start melting (paraffin wax). I've never done a wax barrel spacer to try it, but I can stick a candle out on my patio tomorrow and leave it out there all day to see what it does. Forecast for tomorrow is upper 70's, so I won't get a summer heat test, but I will be able to tell you what happens with the wax being in direct sunlight for a full day.

Edit: Here is the wax I use. http://www.candlewic.com/store/Product.aspx?q=c49,p517 The melting point is at ~120, which means the wax wont start to melt until it reaches that point and it has to stay at that temperature or higher for it to continue to melt.

Edit2: I will also stick the candle back in the metal mold, try to simulate the metal of the outer barrel absorbing the heat from being in the sun.

 

[Killer]

Right, I currently have alot of Gulf Wax (Paraffin wax).
I guess that as long as I keep it out of the sun for prolonged times, i'll be fine.

Besides, touching something at about 45 degrees celcius would feel really hot, and seeing as my barrel was only warm to the touch at max, I think it would be fine.

Anyhow, I'm curious to see your findings. I still have to wait for the R-hop anyway.

 

[lupin2000]

Changed the test slightly. I had it under my snakes heat lamp all night (8 hours). The lamp gives off a constant heat of 95 degrees and the candle was 3 feet under the lamp. Pulled the candle out of the mold, the candle was warm, but the wax did not melt at all.

 

[Masterjuggler98]

The only way you could get your wax to melt is if you had it in a reflective container with the top open on a very hot, sunny day, like those makeshift foil toasters. I've had black mechanical pencils come close to melting because I accidentally left them on the curved part of my shiny grill on a 100+ degree fahrenheit day.