Airsoft Sniper Forum banner

Planned Parts List

5727 Views 48 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  sqwee
Hey guys, I'll be looking into ordering the parts for my g36e DMR soon, and have a question on battery voltage. Should I go with a 9.6v batter to use a high torque motor, or will the 8.4v batteries I have already work good enough? Also, what would the benefits of swapping up to a 9.6v be for a DMR? (RoF doesn't mean anything since I'll be locked into Semi-auto)

And, here are the parts that are worth mentioning and I would like feedback on:

Guarder Poly carbonate Piston - http://www.evike.com/product_info.php?products_id=26499

JBU Aluminum Piston & Cylinder Head Set - http://www.evike.com/product_info.php?products_id=28190
Guarder Infinite Torque-Up Gear Set - http://www.evike.com/product_info.php?products_id=27212
G&G High Torque Airsoft AEG Motor - http://www.evike.com/product_info.php?products_id=29937
- I've changed these out for a Madbull 7 metal tooth piston, Guarder Piston and Cylinder Head, G&P m160 motor & SHS gears, although I don't know what ratio yet.

Guarder Super Lucid Chromium Plating Cylinder - http://www.evike.com/product_info.php?products_id=25869 - Purchased and it seems like it will work great. Nice polish and great air seal with the other Guarder items.

Also, what spring should I be looking at to achieve about 500-525 FPS (After the spring settles) with a 500mm barrel and a properly padded piston head and AOE? Some people say that the sorbo padding will reduce FPS because you lose cylinder volume, while others say it will increase FPS by compressing the spring. I'm currently looking at either a Prometheus M135, Systema M150 or Systema M160 and would like to avoid ordering multiple springs.

E1: Post topic changed since that's been answered & parts list altered
1 - 1 of 49 Posts
sqwee said:
eh... alright well my AoE is pretty good right now and I'll fine tune it once all my parts are in. Should I get a full metal rack if this one breaks? (And what brand)
Thing is, if you use full tooth racks in your piston and something goes the way of the tit in your gearbox that, under normal cuircomstances, would of caused the piston to strip, it could force something else, normaly more expensive, to fail in a spectacular fashion.

Better to use a half metal rack if you have to, as that is the end getting all the stress from a compressed spring, then if anything does fail it'll just rip off the plastic teeth.... better to replace a
1 - 1 of 49 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top