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I don't mind having a slower setup if I use a mosfet which allows for pre-cocking. Plus with slower setups it forces you to think about what you're doing rather then pulling the trigger and throwing bbs down range.
Posts by goldentrigun
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I am currently using a deepfire piston for my helical gears. The build quality on the piston is excellent too compared to other pistons I've seen with full metal racks.
I've also heard great things about their tightbores and gears. Although I can't speak for end range accuracy.
I've also heard great things about their tightbores and gears. Although I can't speak for end range accuracy.
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Deepfire doesn't make helical gears from everything that I've seen. Also, don't be fooled by "super high awesome infinity" gears unless you want the greatest durability possible while maintaining a stock motor as they absolutely kill trigger response. To the point where it is easy to half cock a piston if you aren't paying much attention.
If you want to see what I run in my spr look here. This might give you a few ideas although I wouldn't go with systema like I did for the gears. I got them for a steal which is why I have them in my gun.
http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/phpBB/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=3049
If you want to see what I run in my spr look here. This might give you a few ideas although I wouldn't go with systema like I did for the gears. I got them for a steal which is why I have them in my gun.
http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/phpBB/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=3049
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I've heard good things from SHS gears on budget builds. I'm not sure the amount of money you have budgeted so I'm not quite sure what I should suggest to you which would fall under your price range. Although $20 for a set of gears is a great price if all the hype is true.
Also, look at what color your JG motor shell is. Some of them have neodymium magnets in them which will be more then sufficient to run any setup that you throw at it. (as stated earlier. We're still in the dark at what your setup currently has.)
Also, look at what color your JG motor shell is. Some of them have neodymium magnets in them which will be more then sufficient to run any setup that you throw at it. (as stated earlier. We're still in the dark at what your setup currently has.)
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what is the stock inner barrel length? I have a JG g36c barrel assembly minus the fuse housing. I broke the fuse housing previously and couldn't get just the housing. I ended up having to buy both. so this is the old one.
http://img197.imageshack.us/img197/237/img0702fk.jpg
large image. Wait for it to load and it should fit to screen.
when doing the AOE the surface doesn't need to be smooth as long as it misses the teeth and there isn't a chance to hit the gear you're fine. I use a dremel with a grind wheel although I've done it in the past with a vice and metal file.Correcting AOE on that piston will take a little while. The teeth are really strong.
EDIT: on a side note I just had a nice crude chuckle when I opened that picture up.
http://img197.imageshack.us/img197/237/img0702fk.jpg
large image. Wait for it to load and it should fit to screen.
when doing the AOE the surface doesn't need to be smooth as long as it misses the teeth and there isn't a chance to hit the gear you're fine. I use a dremel with a grind wheel although I've done it in the past with a vice and metal file.Correcting AOE on that piston will take a little while. The teeth are really strong.
EDIT: on a side note I just had a nice crude chuckle when I opened that picture up.
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When opening or closing the gearbox use a flat head so you can gradually wedge it open/shut.
The gearbox version was the same that mine was then. (year wise)
I broke the tabs on my spring guide too trying to reassemble it.
Get a well made metal one which will also help you in re assembling it.(more on this in a second.)
BUY another AR latch.If the boxes are indeed the same/similar that AR latch will be the bane of your existence. I suggest get another one if you are going to use AR latches.(*also have something to say about them in a min)
I would go with metal tooth pistons on a helical setup because of availability but that is just me. Also, at $34 you dont spend to much more buying gears then the deepfire piston.If it is indeed the weak link. (the deepfire half piston is $30)
Those SHS gears you posted are of the wrong ratio(the advertised ratio is wrong. They are still torque gears though) however they are direct replicas of the prometheus double and triple torque up gears. Personally I feel triple torque up gears are unnecessary but it is up to you.
If you get a good spring guide you should be able to place the spring then slide the tabs of the spring guide in place (I take the end of a screw driver and hit it a little to make sure it is set all the way.) into the respective grooves and then let go. This will remove the need for a hole in the back of the gearbox. I can show you what I mean with my gearbox in a video if you would like.
If you plan to run a m130-150 you will put a MAJOR strain on the AB mosfets if you don't use a AR latch. They work very well in Vindi's application because of the weaker spring however if you start half pulling triggers the mosfet will get very hot and possibly fail if it reaches the melting point for silicone boards/electronics ( to give you a baseline 65C is the max operating temp for a CPU in a computer and 90C is considered the temp where a video card will fail) mosfets can get hot enough to melt. Its all in the way they work. When the mosfet gets a stop signal it sends a reverse current to stop the motor.During this time the current is being re routed by the mosfet causing heat build up. This will hold weaker springs in place however once you start using higher powered springs you will start running into issues where the gun will go from half cocked to not at all by unwinding. I found this to be true with a m130 spring and decided to add the AR latch back in before I bumped up to the m150.
The gearbox version was the same that mine was then. (year wise)
I broke the tabs on my spring guide too trying to reassemble it.
Get a well made metal one which will also help you in re assembling it.(more on this in a second.)
BUY another AR latch.If the boxes are indeed the same/similar that AR latch will be the bane of your existence. I suggest get another one if you are going to use AR latches.(*also have something to say about them in a min)
I would go with metal tooth pistons on a helical setup because of availability but that is just me. Also, at $34 you dont spend to much more buying gears then the deepfire piston.If it is indeed the weak link. (the deepfire half piston is $30)
Those SHS gears you posted are of the wrong ratio(the advertised ratio is wrong. They are still torque gears though) however they are direct replicas of the prometheus double and triple torque up gears. Personally I feel triple torque up gears are unnecessary but it is up to you.
If you get a good spring guide you should be able to place the spring then slide the tabs of the spring guide in place (I take the end of a screw driver and hit it a little to make sure it is set all the way.) into the respective grooves and then let go. This will remove the need for a hole in the back of the gearbox. I can show you what I mean with my gearbox in a video if you would like.
If you plan to run a m130-150 you will put a MAJOR strain on the AB mosfets if you don't use a AR latch. They work very well in Vindi's application because of the weaker spring however if you start half pulling triggers the mosfet will get very hot and possibly fail if it reaches the melting point for silicone boards/electronics ( to give you a baseline 65C is the max operating temp for a CPU in a computer and 90C is considered the temp where a video card will fail) mosfets can get hot enough to melt. Its all in the way they work. When the mosfet gets a stop signal it sends a reverse current to stop the motor.During this time the current is being re routed by the mosfet causing heat build up. This will hold weaker springs in place however once you start using higher powered springs you will start running into issues where the gun will go from half cocked to not at all by unwinding. I found this to be true with a m130 spring and decided to add the AR latch back in before I bumped up to the m150.
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It didn't break. Its just the pegs were to short and didn't sit in the shell nicely at all. (ie if you look at it wrong the thing pops out of the hole.) If you think you can handle that by all means go ahead and save yourself $10. I felt it was worth it to have a AR latch that won't fall out as easily.
If you go with std ratio gears spend the time and get the highest torque motor that you can.
Just read around for people using std gears and pulling hard springs you'll get an idea of what motors will pull the springs.
Also I wouldn't say that helical gears are hard to shim. Its just people don't really want to take the time to shim them right. It literally took me 3-4hrs to shim all three of my helical gears.
If you go with std ratio gears spend the time and get the highest torque motor that you can.
Just read around for people using std gears and pulling hard springs you'll get an idea of what motors will pull the springs.
Also I wouldn't say that helical gears are hard to shim. Its just people don't really want to take the time to shim them right. It literally took me 3-4hrs to shim all three of my helical gears.
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I shoot 475 with .2s and shoot 400 with .3s. .36 for me would be in the range of 350-360fps.
I use .3s on a not so windy day but I have 2k .4s if it gets windy and I need a little bit more weight.
My effective range is probably 50ft+ outside that of a standard AEG.
Also, I don't prefer matrix either especially for externals. I've used a few things internally that seemed to be alright.
the matrix 3000 motor whines like a little girl though. (which is why I no longer have it in my setup.)
I use .3s on a not so windy day but I have 2k .4s if it gets windy and I need a little bit more weight.
My effective range is probably 50ft+ outside that of a standard AEG.
Also, I don't prefer matrix either especially for externals. I've used a few things internally that seemed to be alright.
the matrix 3000 motor whines like a little girl though. (which is why I no longer have it in my setup.)
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You should be fine. Make sure the AOE is perfect when you set it up and it should last a good while before breaking.
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Full tooth gear sets only use half the rack. I don't see where a half toothed piston makes any difference.
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If you aren't planning on using a gear set which requires a half tooth piston then just get a full rack piston. They're easier to find.
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