Planned Parts List

goldentrigun said:

what is the stock inner barrel length? I have a JG g36c barrel assembly minus the fuse housing. I broke the fuse housing previously and couldn't get just the housing. I ended up having to buy both. so this is the old one.
http://img197.imageshack.us/img197/237/img0702fk.jpg
large image. Wait for it to load and it should fit to screen.

when doing the AOE the surface doesn't need to be smooth as long as it misses the teeth and there isn't a chance to hit the gear you're fine. I use a dremel with a grind wheel although I've done it in the past with a vice and metal file.Correcting AOE on that piston will take a little while. The teeth are really strong.

EDIT: on a side note I just had a nice crude chuckle when I opened that picture up.

Click to expand...

500mm is stock length for JG g36e, I've got a 509 in there so it extends just a tad. I'm fairly certain that I stripped the outer barrel either during the process of removing the orange tip, or screwing on my Matrix suppressor.

Ahhh I gotcha, makes sense. Would you recommend steel teeth rather than polycarb teeth for high torque set ups? I'm just concerned that by using extremely strong teeth on the piston, that my gears will become the weakest link and strip first, and they're a lot more expensive than piston replacements.

ALSO! I finally cracked open the gearbox today, and in the process of doing so I discovered a few things:

1. Plastic spring guides are crap. The tabs that hold it in place snapped right off as I opened the shell up.
2. My v3 GB shell does not have a small hole in the back to hold the spring guide down while you open it.
3. I have a full black motor, and am unable to tell if it's torque or standard.
4. Polycarb piston with one steel tooth and the overall strength of it seems fragile and brittle.
5. Gears seem to be the new 2010 models and are non-helical, however the bevel gear does not appear to be one piece, and seems to me that it should be swapped.
6. Cylinder is almost full, however has one small square port on one side of it.

Besides that, the shell looks nice... and I can already tell putting it back together will be a pain in the ass, even without needing the AR latch. Without the small hole in the back of the shell, the spring is incredibly difficult to sit in the shell, and this will only get worse once I do an AOE and place a stronger spring in...

EDIT: Are these the SHS gears you guys are talking about? I notice they are indeed helical, and should I go with the "100:200" or "100:300" ratio set?

http://www.airsoftmegastore.com/SHS_Low_Noise_High_Torque_Steel_Gear_Set_p/acc-shs-g100200.htm

When opening or closing the gearbox use a flat head so you can gradually wedge it open/shut.
The gearbox version was the same that mine was then. (year wise)
I broke the tabs on my spring guide too trying to reassemble it.
Get a well made metal one which will also help you in re assembling it.(more on this in a second.)
BUY another AR latch.If the boxes are indeed the same/similar that AR latch will be the bane of your existence. I suggest get another one if you are going to use AR latches.(*also have something to say about them in a min)

I would go with metal tooth pistons on a helical setup because of availability but that is just me. Also, at $34 you dont spend to much more buying gears then the deepfire piston.If it is indeed the weak link. (the deepfire half piston is $30)

Those SHS gears you posted are of the wrong ratio(the advertised ratio is wrong. They are still torque gears though) however they are direct replicas of the prometheus double and triple torque up gears. Personally I feel triple torque up gears are unnecessary but it is up to you.

If you get a good spring guide you should be able to place the spring then slide the tabs of the spring guide in place (I take the end of a screw driver and hit it a little to make sure it is set all the way.) into the respective grooves and then let go. This will remove the need for a hole in the back of the gearbox. I can show you what I mean with my gearbox in a video if you would like.

If you plan to run a m130-150 you will put a MAJOR strain on the AB mosfets if you don't use a AR latch. They work very well in Vindi's application because of the weaker spring however if you start half pulling triggers the mosfet will get very hot and possibly fail if it reaches the melting point for silicone boards/electronics ( to give you a baseline 65C is the max operating temp for a CPU in a computer and 90C is considered the temp where a video card will fail) mosfets can get hot enough to melt. Its all in the way they work. When the mosfet gets a stop signal it sends a reverse current to stop the motor.During this time the current is being re routed by the mosfet causing heat build up. This will hold weaker springs in place however once you start using higher powered springs you will start running into issues where the gun will go from half cocked to not at all by unwinding. I found this to be true with a m130 spring and decided to add the AR latch back in before I bumped up to the m150.

goldentrigun said:

It didn't break. Its just the pegs were to short and didn't sit in the shell nicely at all. (ie if you look at it wrong the thing pops out of the hole.) If you think you can handle that by all means go ahead and save yourself $10. I felt it was worth it to have a AR latch that won't fall out as easily.

If you go with std ratio gears spend the time and get the highest torque motor that you can.
Just read around for people using std gears and pulling hard springs you'll get an idea of what motors will pull the springs.

Also I wouldn't say that helical gears are hard to shim. Its just people don't really want to take the time to shim them right. It literally took me 3-4hrs to shim all three of my helical gears.

Click to expand...

Ahh, okay. Well my first batch of parts came in today. The cylinder, piston head and cylinder head. They have great seal already and are all Guarder.

The outer barrel and new silencer came in today and they actually thread together nicely, so I think I'm done with buying Matrix crap... never trusted their stuff anyways.

I'm looking at getting the G&P m160 motor which I've read a lot of good things about, and people seem to really love that motor. It's neodymium and should easily pull a m150 spring on standard ratio gears.

I'm also seeing a lot of love for the JG blue motor with some people claiming they can pull an m150 on standard gears without the motor even warming on full auto. That being said though, I think I'm going to go with the G&P m160 because:
-The motor seems to be out of stock in the short & long version everywhere
-I don't trust that any of these motors are actually the mythical blue capped m142 neodymium JG motors. I've found a number of forum posts saying that people have ended up with something else even when they thought it was the "mythical" JG blue.
-I can get it off of Armorytech for $45, which beats Evike even after shipping.

Also, I feel I should ask this before I order my AirsoftGI cart. With a rifle shooting over 500 FPS, what are the advantages and disadvantages between .3's , .36's and .4's, assuming they're all the same quality? I am really looking to be able to massively out-range the standard & upgraded riflemen at my field, and am not sure what weight is best. I see a lot of people like .4's for 500+ FPS, but they don't usually state their effective range with them.