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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey guys,

I'm looking to build the ultimate airsoft sniper, and I think the way to do it is with a fusion engine :yup:

Here's what I'm thinking:
1) Order a custom built polar star from airsoft junkiez. I would try to get a 6.01 tight bore barrel (650 mm in length) installed. I would also want the red nozzle.
2) order a low flow gold poppet valve. I've heard that this will not only conserve air usage, but greatly increase performance (bb stability and shot range). I'm also hoping that this will allow me to lower the psi and stay in the 400-430 fps range with .2 gram bb's (not that I would use .2's but my field chronos with them)

So what do you think? I need some suggestions on how to build an awesome polar star sniper!
 

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What platform do you plan on putting it in? What kind of range are you hoping to get? Hopup/bucking? Placement/volume of your air source?

(and intro posts are a lovely way to intoduce yourself to the community)
 

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For starters, the tightbore is shit.
Get an orga barrel.
and shorter barrels gold with polarstars, not longer.

Suggestion; do some more research before jumping into that purchase.
 

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I'd have to disagree with Chaz on one tiny point. DO rush into the purchase!! Of the P* engine, that is.

I know what Chaz was referring to was "the whole shootin' match". He's right, ORGA's are really nice in P*'s.

My setup:

HK 416 base gun. I have a lot of confidence in VFC's externals and the one-piece or unirail upper (whatever they call it) ensures that, no matter how much of an ape you are, you won't be able to twist the body and, in turn, twist the inner barrel along with it. Just my theory.

Prowin Hop Chamber
A must. Unless you are going to do a TDC hop on it, which I may try next. Never done one on an AEG body, only bolt rifles so far.

G&G Hop Bucking
'twas the only bucking they had at the local hobby shop. And it was $8. Whatever. Lopped off the alignment ridge and hop mound for the R-Hop setup anyway. And did the dental floss mod.

Steel 6.01-3 barrel - 363mm (Totally forget what it is...was given to me in a trade)
I have an ORGA but I tried filing it down for ER-Hop and totally WRECKED it!! I now have a milling machine and can do ER-Hop cuts in about 2 minutes. Best $$$ I ever spent.

The P* engine is shooting at 500 fps with .20's
With .32's it is at 429 fps +/- 2 fps - Insanely consistent

Re-read the above chrono numbers...you'll see that, with the proper FCU settings, your velocity is not affected as much when you switch to higher bb's. Even as a PolarStar owner, I've urged local fields to change their chrono practices and conditions. P* have what is called "power creep" or "FPS creep", and as more people figure this out and exploit it, problems will arise.

Performance-wise, it's lethal (85%) at 200 ft, effective at 250, and I've tried shots at 300 feet before. I can't stress enough that this was after putting about 12 minutes of work into cutting an R-hop patch, doing the dental floss mod, and filing the hop arm to make it flat and using a cut-up eraser for a nub, and a cut up piece of gift card for the interface between the hop arm and the nub.

With a 363mm barrel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
What platform do you plan on putting it in? What kind of range are you hoping to get? Hopup/bucking? Placement/volume of your air source?

(and intro posts are a lovely way to intoduce yourself to the community)
The platform I'm looking at is a custom build at the url:

Airsoftjunkiez' Custom 20" PolarStar DMR - G&P Platform - AirsoftJunkiez.com

Ideally, I would like to be able to hit a man-sized target from 250 feet. My KWA km4 sr-10 has been able to hit someone from a max distance of ~190 feet (It is stock with no upgrades). I like the mobility of that gun but want to get something with more range, if possible. Some people brag of hitting targets at 300 feet, but I don't know if I believe that unless you can prove me wrong... :bs:

I'm really not sure about the hopup/bucking. I've heard that an "R-Hop" hopup is the best at achieving long range, but I would not trust myself to install that, it seems very complicated.

As far as the air tank/ air rig set-up I guess I would go all the way and get a ninja 90 Cubic inch 4500 psi tank, and any adequate air line you suggest. I definitely need some advice for the placement of my rig, on how I can condense its space and keep it out of the way when I'm running around. That (and the outrageous $$$) seems like the only drawback.

Sorry if I didn't follow normal protocol, this is the first forum I've actually signed up to :shrug: I'm located near the Mushroom capital of the world, Kennet Square, PA XD. The closest official field near me is OXCC paintball and airsoft in Chesapeake City, MD ( I'm somewhat near Ambush Airsoft in Lancaster to anyone who knows the area). I'm used to just using Rambo tactics with my KWA, but now I'm wanting to take on a DMR/ Sniper role. The OXCC field is not very far from the Polarstar company factory in DE, and it is their preferred testing field. A LOT of players there have Polar*'s, and I'm getting pretty jealous of their ability to hit me from 250+ feet away, even through underbrush and bushes...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'd have to disagree with Chaz on one tiny point. DO rush into the purchase!! Of the P* engine, that is.

I know what Chaz was referring to was "the whole shootin' match". He's right, ORGA's are really nice in P*'s.

My setup:

HK 416 base gun. I have a lot of confidence in VFC's externals and the one-piece or unirail upper (whatever they call it) ensures that, no matter how much of an ape you are, you won't be able to twist the body and, in turn, twist the inner barrel along with it. Just my theory.

Prowin Hop Chamber
A must. Unless you are going to do a TDC hop on it, which I may try next. Never done one on an AEG body, only bolt rifles so far.

G&G Hop Bucking
'twas the only bucking they had at the local hobby shop. And it was $8. Whatever. Lopped off the alignment ridge and hop mound for the R-Hop setup anyway. And did the dental floss mod.

Steel 6.01-3 barrel - 363mm (Totally forget what it is...was given to me in a trade)
I have an ORGA but I tried filing it down for ER-Hop and totally WRECKED it!! I now have a milling machine and can do ER-Hop cuts in about 2 minutes. Best $$$ I ever spent.

The P* engine is shooting at 500 fps with .20's
With .32's it is at 429 fps +/- 2 fps - Insanely consistent

Re-read the above chrono numbers...you'll see that, with the proper FCU settings, your velocity is not affected as much when you switch to higher bb's. Even as a PolarStar owner, I've urged local fields to change their chrono practices and conditions. P* have what is called "power creep" or "FPS creep", and as more people figure this out and exploit it, problems will arise.

Performance-wise, it's lethal (85%) at 200 ft, effective at 250, and I've tried shots at 300 feet before. I can't stress enough that this was after putting about 12 minutes of work into cutting an R-hop patch, doing the dental floss mod, and filing the hop arm to make it flat and using a cut-up eraser for a nub, and a cut up piece of gift card for the interface between the hop arm and the nub.

With a 363mm barrel.
Thanks for the reply.

I've read about the "energy creep" in Polarstars, that the fps will decrease as the bb increases in weight, but the joules will go up. I guess this is why it is so effective as a sniper...

Regarding the Orga barrel, would you recommend an Orga wide bore or tight bore? Correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought that having a longer barrel would be much more effective in a Polar* than in an aeg, because the polar star is electro-pnuematic and fires with air (which is why Polarstar warns of the Fps difference between different barrel lengths). Anyway, I feel inclined to get a tight bore, because I can get a 6.01 650 mm tight bore and use it in junction with the low flow poppet valve, to conserve air and hopefully improve range. I don't understand how an Orga could perform better than a tight bore. Also, what color nozzle and psi are you using to shoot 500 fps?
 

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I have found that the PDI W-Holds are nice substitutes for R-hops. I put one into my VFC M4 with a Prowin hopup unit and completely turned off I can over hop .28's and reach out to about 200 feet perfectly. Gun is shooting at 400fps.
Back to P*'s. Joule creep is something to be aware of. Remember, measure Jules rather then FPS when chroning your gun, otherwise you could seriously hurt someone.
Thanks for the reply.

I've read about the "energy creep" in Polarstars, that the fps will decrease as the bb increases in weight, but the joules will go up. I guess this is why it is so effective as a sniper...

Regarding the Orga barrel, would you recommend an Orga wide bore or tight bore? Correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought that having a longer barrel would be much more effective in a Polar* than in an aeg, because the polar star is electro-pnuematic and fires with air (which is why Polarstar warns of the Fps difference between different barrel lengths). Anyway, I feel inclined to get a tight bore, because I can get a 6.01 650 mm tight bore and use it in junction with the low flow poppet valve, to conserve air and hopefully improve range. I don't understand how an Orga could perform better than a tight bore. Also, what color nozzle and psi are you using to shoot 500 fps?
Shorter barrels have less interference with the BB causing less chance for disturbing the round. Second, wide bore barrels also keep the BB in the cushion of air rather then on the barrel, again, reducing disturbance on the round.

my 2 cents
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
And to let you guys know, I'm not very experienced in the internal modification of airsoft guns. The most involved I've been was swapping out a stock barrel in my old KWA-SR10 to replace it with a tight bore, and I did not seem to yield good results. I know this sounds stupid, but I'm looking to change this by experimenting with the polar star build. However, I definitely want to figure this stuff out before I commit to buying one.

For example, Shifty- you already posted a recommendation of the ER hop. This sounds awesome, but I would need a tutorial/ how to. Does anyone have a link on the specifics of this installation?

Thanks for the advice so far everyone
 

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Funny you should ask, I actually made a video. It's not all still slides, there are many video clips in there, but it starts with a few still slides.

 

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Some people brag of hitting targets at 300 feet, but I don't know if I believe that unless you can prove me wrong...
300ft is achievable but only with a degree of tuning and patience few people are willing to invest in to an airsoft gun. Even more so if trying to stay within output limits of most fields. Many of those legendary hits likely involved a LOT of lobbing and even more luck. A P* is an excellent way to get most of the way there though.

My P* has a 500mm orga widebore, prowin chamber, prommy purple bucking, flathop, red nozzle and red poppet. 150ft and closer I can hit exposed elbows and feet all day long. 200ft is torso range. 275ft is fine for hitting trees but not exactly precision firing. That's with 0.30g's at under 1.48J.

Starting to see some themes on the posted P* builds?

Moving along to the rest of the build . . .
A big tank is not necessary if you anticipate running in a DMR role. I have the redline airstock on mine which uses 13/3000 tanks and I have yet to go through the pair of tanks I have in a day. Unless you plan on running it like a SAW, you just don't need that kind of air volume. A good old 48/3000 for $50 is a solid way to go.

The regulator you put on that tank is also important. The ARX20 is a cheap way to go, but hardly precision with decent flow. The Redline Firebase is popular with P* users for a reason.

Get the style rifle you want, a basic tank and good regulator to start with and see how it performs. The one performance part you might want up front is the Prowin hopup chamber. The rest can come further down the line and give you time to learn about the system.
 
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