So today I decided that I wanted to find a way of making my airsoft game videos look a little better other than the traditional way of strapping the camera to my head. Which I find irritating, heavy and all around uncomfortable.
There are many videos on YouTube that show you how to create these rigs. Below is the one I used for inspiration.
So after watching that I headed out to Builders Warehouse to get the stuff I needed.
What you will need for this project:
20mm PVC pipe (comes in 3m lengths) - R11 ($1)
3 x 90 degree corner joins R10 each ($1)
2 x T shape joins R10 each ($1)
Hacksaw
Spray paint (I used Rustoleum Satin Nutmeg, It is a similar brown to SADF brown and just works well with my Tan chest Rig.) - R85 ($8) (but I had some already so I wont add it to the cost)
Total: R61 ($6)
Ok so first off you will want to measure how much piping you will need to the two sides and the bottom of the rig that will fit onto your webbing.
I didnt even measure it to be honest, I just eye balled it then cut the length I needed.
The first of the 90 degree joins will go on the top of the right hand pipe. This is there to hold the rig in place and to stop it from sliding out the bottom. The tubing is a really tight fit in between the molle straps already but this just adds that extra safety. In other videos people have also used cable ties to secure the piping to the vest.
Next you will want to make the bottom part of the rig. You will use the remaining two 90 degree joins to join the sides together. Measure the small length of pipe that will run between the joins. Once again, I just eye balled it.
![Image]()
Next up is the left hand side pipe. I made this length a little longer as the first T join will attach to it.
The reason why I used T joins is because it allows the camera arm to be fully adjustable up and down.
Once the first T join has been added to the top of the left side you can measure (eyeball) a small length of pipe that will connect it to the next T join that holds the camera arm. Once the T joins where done I cut off one side as the other wasnt needed. The off cut will be used later.
![Image]()
Next up is measuring the length of the camera arm itself.
Now I went through a few stages with this arm to get it the right length. Some people have used really long arms with an aggressive angle to achieve the true 3rd person perspective but I think that this approach looses a bit to much detail being so far back. The arm I decided to go for is quite short. Its probably around 20cm long. Reason for this is that I wanted more of an over the shoulder view for my rig. Being fully adjustable also means that I can remove the short arm and insert a longer arm if I so desired.Through my testing I found that the longer arms would snag on branches and door frames etc. With this short arm and short width of the T connectors I managed to keep it within shoulder width and head height. Meaning that I shouldnt have to change the way I move for fear of the camera hitting any obstacles. You do still have to be mindful though as not to damage the camera and its lens.
Next up is the connection to the camera itself.
The camera I am using is the Drift HD 1080. It has a threaded tripod mount on the bottom. What I decided to do was use a piece of off cut from my modified T joint. This piece of T joint will fit onto the end of the camera arm. I then found a screw the right length and thread for the camera. Once I had that sorted I added a few washers to the screw to get it the right length to have the camera sit flush against the mount. The camera is now mounted firmly to the off cut bit of T join which then simply pops onto the top of the camera arm.
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
The downside of this mount is that the cameras angle isnt adjustable at the top but only at the bottom T joint. This is fine for me as I prefer a more straight up angle. Other people have used Ball mounts and modified GoPro mounts to be able to adjust the camera itself.
Next up is painting.
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
So thats all there is to it really! This was a really fun and simple build to do.
Here is a short video showing the angle.
There are many videos on YouTube that show you how to create these rigs. Below is the one I used for inspiration.
So after watching that I headed out to Builders Warehouse to get the stuff I needed.
What you will need for this project:
20mm PVC pipe (comes in 3m lengths) - R11 ($1)
3 x 90 degree corner joins R10 each ($1)
2 x T shape joins R10 each ($1)
Hacksaw
Spray paint (I used Rustoleum Satin Nutmeg, It is a similar brown to SADF brown and just works well with my Tan chest Rig.) - R85 ($8) (but I had some already so I wont add it to the cost)
Total: R61 ($6)
Ok so first off you will want to measure how much piping you will need to the two sides and the bottom of the rig that will fit onto your webbing.
I didnt even measure it to be honest, I just eye balled it then cut the length I needed.
The first of the 90 degree joins will go on the top of the right hand pipe. This is there to hold the rig in place and to stop it from sliding out the bottom. The tubing is a really tight fit in between the molle straps already but this just adds that extra safety. In other videos people have also used cable ties to secure the piping to the vest.
Next you will want to make the bottom part of the rig. You will use the remaining two 90 degree joins to join the sides together. Measure the small length of pipe that will run between the joins. Once again, I just eye balled it.
Next up is the left hand side pipe. I made this length a little longer as the first T join will attach to it.
The reason why I used T joins is because it allows the camera arm to be fully adjustable up and down.
Once the first T join has been added to the top of the left side you can measure (eyeball) a small length of pipe that will connect it to the next T join that holds the camera arm. Once the T joins where done I cut off one side as the other wasnt needed. The off cut will be used later.
Next up is measuring the length of the camera arm itself.
Now I went through a few stages with this arm to get it the right length. Some people have used really long arms with an aggressive angle to achieve the true 3rd person perspective but I think that this approach looses a bit to much detail being so far back. The arm I decided to go for is quite short. Its probably around 20cm long. Reason for this is that I wanted more of an over the shoulder view for my rig. Being fully adjustable also means that I can remove the short arm and insert a longer arm if I so desired.Through my testing I found that the longer arms would snag on branches and door frames etc. With this short arm and short width of the T connectors I managed to keep it within shoulder width and head height. Meaning that I shouldnt have to change the way I move for fear of the camera hitting any obstacles. You do still have to be mindful though as not to damage the camera and its lens.
Next up is the connection to the camera itself.
The camera I am using is the Drift HD 1080. It has a threaded tripod mount on the bottom. What I decided to do was use a piece of off cut from my modified T joint. This piece of T joint will fit onto the end of the camera arm. I then found a screw the right length and thread for the camera. Once I had that sorted I added a few washers to the screw to get it the right length to have the camera sit flush against the mount. The camera is now mounted firmly to the off cut bit of T join which then simply pops onto the top of the camera arm.
The downside of this mount is that the cameras angle isnt adjustable at the top but only at the bottom T joint. This is fine for me as I prefer a more straight up angle. Other people have used Ball mounts and modified GoPro mounts to be able to adjust the camera itself.
Next up is painting.
So thats all there is to it really! This was a really fun and simple build to do.
Here is a short video showing the angle.
