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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)

English is not my first language.
There is nothing new in what you are going to read. So why did I write it then?
I wanted to show that anyone could do DIY mods without any kind of craftsmanship under your belt.
I am the kind of person who holds the hammer the wrong way around, if you get my point.
Therefore, this is for the people who think they are not capable of DIYs.
Everyone can do these mods; all it takes is time and patience.​

Contents
Why this project?
My guidelines​
Choosing a rifle
Receiving and assembling the rifle
DIY mods

Bolt handle
Cylinder sleeves
Ejection port protector
Clay stock mod
Upgrade stock cylinder head
Revision of cylinder head​
Sorbothane on cylinder head
TDC (Top Dead Center) with scope dial
Revision TDC mod​
Hop-up unit
Misfeeding magazine
Hop-up anti-blowby with dental floss, Teflon tape and anti-blowby ring
Revision of anti-blowby ring​
R-hop
Hop-up arm
Barrel spacers
Barrel, suppressor and LRB mod​
Project price
Future mods

One piece barrel spacer​
Links
Final words and thoughts

Why this project?
I have been playing airsoft for the last 4 years. Started with an AEGm4 but the assault play style was not really my thing. I am more into the stealthy, sneaky kind of gameplay.
Therefore, I decided to get myself an hk416 and modding it into a DMR. That was my main rifle for the last 3½ years, but I always wanted better accuracy than it could give me.
That is when I decided to do this project; furthermore, my goal was also to do it as cheap as possible.​

My guidelines:

• Uses few (if any) aftermarket products
• Uses as many stock components as possible
• Get the best possible accuracy out of the gun, with the use of DIY mods
• Keep the gun
• Relatively low fps (m/s) around 420 (128)​

Choosing a rifle
I have known for quite some time that I wanted a VSR-10, but did not want to pay the price of a TM VSR-10. Therefore, I got myself a Jing Gong Bar-10 Gspec.


The reason for choosing the JG platform and not WELL, ASM and or alike, is due to the compability with 100% of the TM VSR-10 aftermarket products. Not that I plan to use anything to start with, but it would be nice if I someday want too, or if anything breaks.​

Receiving and assembling the rifle


This is how the rifle looks. Apart from the scope dial on top of the barrel (TDC mod further down).
The rifle came with a surprisingly nice scope but I already had one (the one fitted), and I needed the scope dial for the TDC mod so it had to go. The scope still works but you cannot adjust it.
Out of the box fps (m/s): 355 fps (108m/s)
I was not able to test the accuracy before the build began.​

DIY mods
Bolt handle
Why?
To remove the wobble in the bolt handle.

In Noobie's guide, he used a 0.2 mm shim. I did not have that so I used a piece of hard plastic. No idea of how long it is going to last but worth a try.​

Cylinder sleeves
Why?
To remove the wobble from cylinder when loading.

Used the same materials as Noobie on this mod. Easy to make just, have patience.


Rear view


Front view​

Ejection port protector
Why?
To protect the cylinder against dirt and what not.

Took a soda can, cut it to the desired measurements, removed the paint and fitted it inside the receiver.


Clay stock mod
Why?
"To reduce the noise output of the rifle firing by reducing the amount of echoes created within the hollow stock of a VSR/BAR 10." SVT Cobra

Why purple? Because I can.



I used 1 kg of reusable modeling clay. Basically the same as SVT Cobra.​


Upgrade stock cylinder head
Why?
To gain optimal airflow from cylinder to barrel.

I used the same method as SniperPT but did not have the exact same grades of sandpaper. I used 80/120/220, and last 400 with added water.




Revision of cylinder head
Why?
I damaged the nozzle end of my cylinder head. Therefore, I had to replace it. I got a PPS with O-rings on. It is already shaped as a cone and had an absorbent material on it. I still added sorbothane to it, without it, it was fare to loud. (The object that is holding the cylinder head, is a custom tool to take off cylinder heads without doing any damage to either cylinder or cylinder head)


Sorbothane on cylinder head
Why?
To make the rifle more silent.

I got some sorbothane with 50 durometer density. This should be enough, with the low fps my rifle has. The sorbothane is cut with and outer circle on 18mm and inner circle on 8mm, then clued to the cylinder head with contact glue. See picture above.
"Cutting Sorbothane
Sorbothane, depending on thickness, cuts easily with a scissors or X-acto-style knife. It can be die-cut however the cut is not clean.
Chilling the material to temperatures below zero degrees Fahrenheit will improve the quality of the die cut. It can be milled if chilled below zero degrees Fahrenheit.
Water jet cutting at room temperature will give an attractive cut."


TDC (Top Dead Center) with scope dial
Why?
"A fixed hop is more consistent than an adjustable hop, because the adjustable hop can move a bit when you fire it. This will give you the consistency of a fixed hop, while being able to adjust it. Some people also have a curving issue, most common on VSR rifles though not always, that you just can't seem to fix with shims. This will keep the hop-up arm straight and keep the bb going dead straight, that is unless you either have the nub uneven or the bucking mound is uneven." Masterjuggler98

Did as Masterjuggler98 described with the measuring and removal of the hop-up slider. Removed the scope dial from the scope with pliers.


I ended up not using the rubber shim.


I used clear contact glue. Time will show how long it is going to last. I did plan to get some JB weld, but wanted to try this first.​

Revision TDC mod
Why?
The contact glue did not last very long. After two attempts, I went and ordered some JB weld.


First time working with this and it was easy. Just remember to be in a ventilated room.​

Hop-up unit
Why?
The hop-up unit needs to be slightly modded to be able to use AEG barrels. The AEG barrels are cheaper than VSR barrels and you can get different lengths + I like to keep it cheap.

Located the two grooves that needed to be removed to enable the VSR hop-up unit to use AEG barrels.




Took a Dremel and grinded the grooves down.



Now an AEG barrel fits right into the hop-up unit.​


Misfeeding magazine
Why?
Nothing more irritating than dry firing.

This is a modification of Dead Ace Shot's mod. Instead of applying small pieces of metal to every magazine. I glue it to the chamber. (It is the little orange piece)


Hop-up anti-blowby with dental floss, Teflon tape and anti-blowby ring
Why?
In the stock setup, a lot of the air compression is lost. With this mod we minimize the loss of compression and obtain higher fps.

"Anti blow by rings are two small circular devices that fit onto the hop up bucking and help reduce air lost from compression through the bucking. They consist of two rings, one at the front end of the bucking and one at the other end on the bucking to cylinder head connection. The anti blow by rings help compression by reducing air lost, and help increase fps. They are also a great help in reducing fps variation between shots." 2shots, AirsoftRetreat


The dental floss and Teflon tape takes a lot of patience and a steady hand. However, it works perfectly. I have done this mod to all my rifles also AEGs.



The anti-blowby ring is not that hard to make. I ordered the tube via eBay and cut the desired length.


Revision of anti-blowby ring
I am not using the anti-blowby ring because of my new cylinder head being too big and my new hop-up rubber being too snuck. To show the difference between stock- (bottom)and an SHS rubber (top).



If I did not damage my original cylinder head, the fit would have been perfect with the ring. ATM I am using it in my other original TM VSR-10 and it works perfectly.​

R-hop
Why?
It is said that this type of hop-up can increase the accuracy and consistency of the rifle.

Disclaimer: I have not personally worked or seen a gun with the original R-hop patch. I am just going the direction some people suggest, to save money and still get a great result.

I have made my own R-hop patch and I highly recommend getting some silicon tube instead of buying the patches. They are overpriced, compared to what silicon tube costs. Yes, you will fail on several attempts on making your own R-hop patch, but you can fail a 100 times and still save money compared to paying for the original patch.
What tube to use:
If you are from the States, then look up Little Bird's thread (linked at the end), if you are from EU check post #130 in his thread.


Some quick tips for making a patch:
Use a very sharp blade. I use razor blades (Order them off eBay). To get the (near) perfect fit, I use a bolt with some electrical tape around it, to stick into the barrel.


I am still trying to get mine perfect. A lot of disassembly and assembly.​

Hop-up arm
Why?
You need to hit what you are aiming for. If it takes to many shoots to hit the target, then you are in danger of being found.

The reason to the new arm is that I rather broke mine. I noticed the one 'nub' was bigger than the other was, so I cut something of it. Well I cut too much and now I have to pay.

Got a DangerWerx type A arm. Note to self and others, DO NOT buy the type A if you are considering doing an R-hop. Get the type B. The A type will make a V shape out of the R-hop. I had to mod my type A to a type B.


The Teflon tape is acting as a shim against the chamber walls.​


Barrel spacers
Why?
To stabilize the barrel and making the BBs hit within a smaller area consistently.

I have made a couple of these now, using different materials and different placements.
The materials I have used:
• Mixing paper and electrical tape. Switching between them.​
o The mixing paper and electrical tape was just a disaster waiting to happen. Do not do this, it is a crappy solution that will ruin your day. Warping like hell and never staying where it is suppose to.​
• Only electrical tape​
o Just as much warping as the mixing. Electrical tape stretches and that is a bad thing in this usage. It is very difficult not to stretch the tape when applying.​
• Masking tape​
o This is what I am using now. Easy to work with and stays where I want it to.​

The placements of the spacers depends on what you are going to do. If you are going to do the LRB (Long Range Barrel) mod, which I am doing, then you have to decide between either 2/3 and 1/3. Meaning either 1/3 or 2/3 of the barrel is curved.


This is how I have placed mine. The red is electrical tape. The tape, towards the end of the barrel, is acting as a fitter between the Gspec's adapter. Therefore, I have two spacers. One I made my self and the other the adapter.


More on the LRB down below.​

Barrel, suppressor and LRB mod
Why?
To cover the longer barrel and to get a constant backspin on the BB.

At first, I got an Action Army 6.03, 540mm AEG barrel and a 290mm suppressor. The first problem was that I thought it was too long, the complete rifle. And I heard chatter, on the ASF, that the weight of your BB's also had an impact on what barrel to use and I wanted to use .40g+ in my rifle. After some thought, I switched my 540mm barrel with my DMR's 455mm, was really happy that I did the AEG mod on my hop-up unit, and got back to using the stock suppressor.

My spacer setup is 2/3. Meaning the last 1/3 of the barrel is curving.

I have made an Adjustable LRB Spacer. The LRB mod known ATM, require you to drill into either your outer barrel or suppressor and is a fixed mod. My spacer require nothing other than to be put inside your barrel or suppressor. In addition, it can be freely adjusted, in any way you like.
I have one fitted in my DMR (40mm) and one in my bar-10 (35mm).
This is something I have plans to sell.​

Project price
The total cost of the project:
• Gun : 135 USD (98 EUR)
• 35mm film casings : 15 USD (11 EUR)
• Clay : 22 USD (16 EUR)
• Sorbothane : 10 USD (7 EUR)
• JB Weld : 12 USD (9 EUR)
• Dangerwerx arm : 50 USD (37 EUR)
• R-hop material : 11 USD (8 EUR)
• Hop-up rubber : 4 USD (3 EUR)
• *Cylinder head : 11 USD (8 EUR)
• Barrel : 34 USD (25 EUR)
• Brass tube : 3 USD (2 EUR)

Total : 307 USD (224 EUR)​

The sandpaper and contact glue was freebies.
*If you do not damage your cylinder head, this expense will not be added to you.​

Future mods
One piece barrel spacer
I plan to do a one-piece barrel spacer out of printing paper, just as SVT Cobra.​

Links
This is mainly what threads I have been reading. Thanks to all the wonderful people that put so much work and effort into tutorials. They really help one out! Big shout out to all listed below and to the people that inspired them! :bow:

Noobie's JG Bar-10 Project (Noobie)
Airsoft Retreat - Airsoft & milsim news, reviews, forums, gallery, technical articles and community interaction
Noobie's G-Spec 2nd Project (Noobie)
Airsoft Retreat - Airsoft & milsim news, reviews, forums, gallery, technical articles and community interaction
Noobie's TDC [v2] Project
Airsoft Retreat - Airsoft & milsim news, reviews, forums, gallery, technical articles and community interaction
Make Your Own Upgraded Cylinder Head (SniperPT)
Make Your Own Upgraded Cylinder Head - Airsoft Forum
SVT Cobra's Clay Stock Mod + 1 Piece Barrel Spacer + Brass Shims (SVT Cobra)
Airsoft Retreat - Airsoft & milsim news, reviews, forums, gallery, technical articles and community interaction
Top Dead Center Mod (TDC) Guide (Masterjuggler98 and Woogie)
http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/32-general-sniper-talk/4634-top-dead-center-mod-tdc-guide.html
TM VSR 10 Disassembly/Assembly Guide (Fuzzywolly)
http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/41-vsr-rifles/4718-tm-vsr-10-disassembly-assembly-guide.html
100% compression with dental floss mod (Jimmiroquai)
100% compression with dental floss mod
Advanced VSR Sniper Building Guide (1tonne)
http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/41-vsr-rifles/6075-advanced-vsr-sniper-building-guide.html
R-hop database (Masterjuggler98)
http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/32-general-sniper-talk/6422-r-hop-database.html
R-Hop Source Material (Little Bird)
http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/32-general-sniper-talk/9551-r-hop-source-material.html
The Guide to making your own Homemade Barrel Suppressor/LRB (TheHunter)
http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/3...-your-own-homemade-barrel-suppressor-lrb.html
Bar-10 G-Spec and Pro: Journal (post # 73)(Dead Ace Shot)
http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/41-vsr-rifles/6761-bar-10-g-spec-pro-journal.html

Final words and thoughts
I am tired of typing. To make the build is one thing, but to document it is a whole other story. I am writing it all in Word and then need to code it onto the forum. These things is so time consuming. I now, more than ever, respect the people who have done long tutorials or documentation, containing pictures and links. Enough of my BS and whining.

Airsoft sniping is a constant learning curve. It never seems to stop. Which I love. This build will not be my last. I am not saying this one is finished. I still need to fine-tune it. I am just saying more builds is on the drawing board.

Did I succeeded in proving it is possible to build a rifle, cheap and still get good accuracy?
Actually, I do not know yet. I do not have any heavy BBs. I cannot test the rifle properly; the longest I have available is 35 meters (114 feet). I have no idea if the stock spring power can do the distance, I am hoping.
If we assume all this goes as planned. Then I believe I have proven a point, yes.

The rifle is wrapped in Tan fabric tape.

Thank you for your time. I hope that I inspired others to try DIY mods.​
 

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This is a beautiful write up! I really have to give you credit man, you really went above and beyond :) The rifle looks great and I can't wait to get to some DIY myself. Thanks for the great read and good luck in the future.
 

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I agree with Willis, great write-up! I am in the process of undertaking a similar project. I have mostly gone by Noobie's Bar-10 and Bar-10 G-spec post and I must say that the TDC with the scope dial is something I've never seen before and I think that's incredibly clever (I know it wasnt your idea but still impressed by it).

I have a question for you, how much did the cylinder spacers help with the smoothness of the bolt pull? I am looking for 35mm film cases so I can do the same thing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Adding the cylinder sleeves helped a lot imo. Now the cylinder just glids in slot. Before you could wiggle the cylinder some mm's from side to side. Not what you want in a tight situation.

Sendt from the field with tapatalk
 

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try to updrage barrel length ( up to 495mm or 455m) for correct air volume, it will help to increase accuracy and more silent. don't need expensive , just buy brass barrel AEG and mod it to fit in hop-up unit. Cheers
 

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try to updrage barrel length ( up to 495mm or 455m) for correct air volume, it will help to increase accuracy and more silent. don't need expensive , just buy brass barrel AEG and mod it to fit in hop-up unit. Cheers
Why not port the cylinder and match the volume that way?
 

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The first picture in the grass looks beautiful :')

It looks better with the EOTech in my opinion
 

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Great work! Really appreciate the whole write up. I was bit confused with some of the mods as there are tons out there. Specifically, why do people do this or that. I'm newbie to airsoft and had 'tried' reading tons of the DIY mods out there. I guess this just happens to be the one that finally caught my attention since I had just realised that these mods are not specific to Bar-10s. Going to try these mods on AW 338 soon. Still need to buy more tools for some of the works. If only my rifle can arrive faster.
 

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This is such a good thread and i like the rifle with the eotech ;)


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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thank you very much! :-D
At the moment the scope is on, the test firing is easier this way. But I'm looking forward to trying the eotech.

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I thought id put my eotech on my tm pro to see what it would look like.

Personally i think it looks better on the g spec as its got a shorter barrel.



What do you guys think





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Il try and get one with my dslr :)


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what's range and accuary you got now ? Is it better on first post on topic? Just wanna ask seen you do a lot of things more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I am planning on doing a big update on this thread soon. A lot has happened since I last wrote this.
Atm I am not happy with the performance, accuracy or range. I'm doing an r-hop for this to. (did it on my Aeg and worked wonders)
The build is soon "finished", hoping I can update you all soon.

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