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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Trying to research existing threads here didn't really work since everyone has a different opinion. I'd just like a general opinion on if there is something that needs to change in the parts I have selected before I go out and by them. My VSR has a modified trigger guard (QD Cylinder Mod) and a Laylax PSS-10 trigger and it's dedicated High Pressure Piston in an Action Army cylinder but the entire barrel/hop assembly is stock, as is the bolt handle and spring.

What I plan to install is as follows:

Action Army hop chamber and cnc bolt handle
Maple Leaf 6.02 barrel and Autobot 80 bucking
AirsoftPro M140 Spring
 

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That sounds solid, but I have gotten very good results with the 2021 70* Autobot compared to an old style 60* Autobot, so I'd get a 70*-85* 2021 version Autobot or Decepticon.

Otherwise, click the SS-nub thing in my signature, it's a super cheap super awesome nub you can make, that competes with the Masada arm and arguably beats the Panthera to a pulp.

And then standard DIY stuff like painters tape barrel spacers, piston weighting, and foam filling the stock.
No Teflon on the bucking though, they already seal well and the Teflon messes up accuracy due to stretching the bucking occasionally during install.
As for piston weighting, add lead wire/golf tape/lead core fishing line, or copper wire on the piston until you lose power with your desired BBs on their used hop setting. Then back it off a couple G and secure it with hot glue or some sort of tape.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That sounds solid, but I have gotten very good results with the 2021 70* Autobot compared to an old style 60* Autobot, so I'd get a 70*-85* 2021 version Autobot or Decepticon.

Otherwise, click the SS-nub thing in my signature, it's a super cheap super awesome nub you can make, that competes with the Masada arm and arguably beats the Panthera to a pulp.

And then standard DIY stuff like painters tape barrel spacers, piston weighting, and foam filling the stock.
No Teflon on the bucking though, they already seal well and the Teflon messes up accuracy due to stretching the bucking occasionally during install.
As for piston weighting, add lead wire/golf tape/lead core fishing line, or copper wire on the piston until you lose power with your desired BBs on their used hop setting. Then back it off a couple G and secure it with hot glue or some sort of tape.
Good information right here, however I recently noticed an issue with airseal, perhaps you got a clue on what's going on since I don't

The piston air seal seems to be much worse with the upgrade parts installed. Multiple sources have told me that the Laylax piston should be compatible with Action Army cylinders, However the airseal is significantly worse. Have I been misinformed? I'd rather not have to buy an AA zero trigger too since my economy won't really allow for this.

The cylinder has a twist pattern on the outside but this probably doesn't matter.

I assume it could also be the stock hop bucking and chamber not sealing well with the new cylinder head, that's also possible.
 

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Well I recommend that you remove the outer barrel, cock the rifle, and fire with your finger firmly pressed against the nozzle.
If the piston slams forward, we can go from there, if it doesn't and there is air holding it back, it is likely your bucking or weird installation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well I recommend that you remove the outer barrel, cock the rifle, and fire with your finger firmly pressed against the nozzle.
If the piston slams forward, we can go from there, if it doesn't and there is air holding it back, it is likely your bucking or weird installation.
This test shows that the piston airseal is awful, it seems to be barely there. The piston seems to fit more snug in the original cylinder after further testing. I was thinking of getting an Action Army piston if that's a viable option, If the AA trigger really is a clone of the Laylax trigger, which I have heard, i guess the pistons are interchangeable? Both are zero pistons. Getting a laylax cylinder is not an option as they are nowhere to be seen here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
I suggest that you go to a hardware or auto parts store and bring your cylinder, and get one of each size O-ring that fits the cylinder from somewhat loose to relatively tight, and also get some sort of light silicone oil.
I removed the O-ring and replaced it with the stock one which is a bit beefier. I then put a piece of tape from the inside that blocks the nozzle since I don't trust my fat fingers, and this happened. As someone with much more experience than me, do you approve this seal for a performance build? Excuse my dry hands, this happens every winter.
(Unfortunately it turns out that the hop bucking is at fault too. Hoping installing an Autobot will fix this issue.)
Update: The hop bucking is not at fault too. That... was me that forgot to reinstall the airbrake

seal test video
 
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