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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've sunk everything possible into the rifle...only stock parts are the RIS rails, bolt handle, and receiver (I even have the PDI one, I'm just too lazy to sand it). I've even replaced the mag catch and all those small internal parts you don't think about
Using .43 madbulls, swapped my inner barrel for promo, and it's shooting with a good amount/consistency of hop with a TM bucking (finally)...that might change, but I'm good for now.

My last question until I get back in the field is: I bought the parts for a laylax cylinder set separately and assembled/installed them, and my cylinder is still picky about how it catches on the piston sear when I pull it all the way back. There's a technique to it that works, but if it's not pulled straight back strongly, it won't lock in and will retain tension. Is this anything to be concerned about? I've really only noticed this recently because of my weakened condition after surgery.

I'm using a zero trigger, by the way. I replaced the screws, etc. and it's anchored firmly, with the piston sear engaged. There is no wear on any of the parts concerned.
 

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I think I know what your talking about. I've experienced this situation a few times with my vsr and l96, when the zero trigger was like brand new. Is one of the sears sticking in the zero trigger? it takes some-time before the zero trigger breaks in. After you get about 1,000 (give or take a few hundred), you won't experience this issue anymore.

Is this what your talking about? Try firing your l96, and if it won't catch after you shoot, take apart the gun and look inside of your zero trigger. There should be one sear (the farthest to the front, of the trigger) that sticks in the upright position. Take a small Allen and push the sear back again. continue shooting and working that sear back and you'll notice you can get allot more shots in, before it sticks.So its best to leave the upper receiver off the stock.

Just give it some-time for the rifle to break in. This applys to just about every brand new sniper, and zero trigger system.
 

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I wouldn't recommend taking the zero trigger apart.

I would recommend;
Take your cylinder apart.
once the spring, piston, and spring guide is out. Take a flash light, and shine it in the cylinder. Make sure theres no Foreign objects wedged in the back end. Whipe everything down and re-apply grease.

Is there one sear that sticks, or is it just simply a sear won't grab the piston?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Already did all of the above to the cylinder.

It doesn't stick at the back and then slam forward if the trigger is pulled or when it's pushed, if you're confusing it with that problem. The problem is if I pull the cylinder back with a small amount of force (slowly, angled force, etc.) it never "clicks" at the full extension. I assume that's the piston sear?

The sear you were talking about that sticks in the upright position, are you talking a trigger sear?
 

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Caliber, all the talk about any sort of break in period is bullshit. Metal isnt heating up like a real steel would. It doesn't make any sense at all.

Check how much clearance you have with your piston sear on the piston lip. Are you still using the spring guide rod? Make sure there is no wear on your piston sear too.
 

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Livonia said:
Caliber, all the talk about any sort of break in period is bullshit. Metal isnt heating up like a real steel would. It doesn't make any sense at all.

Check how much clearance you have with your piston sear on the piston lip. Are you still using the spring guide rod? Make sure there is no wear on your piston sear too.
I'm not sure where real rifles and heat got into this topic??? lol did I say anything about heat to metal?

I'm not going to say its a matter of opinion, I'm just going to say its a matter of experiences. Whether you in particular don't believe in breaking in parts on a new sniper rifle, I respect that. However, don't claim other people who do, are full of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'm sure Livonia and you are both experienced, which is why I said it's a matter of opinion. Heat got into the discussion because that's what allows a real barrel to break in, which parallels airsoft.

Let's not make this into an argument.
Anyway, thanks for all the help
 

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I had the same problem with my piston not engaging a while ago. Try loosening the trigger screws a tiny bit so that they're tight but not super tight. If you utilize the quick-detach function and don't take your trigger off too often then go ahead and put some threadlock in those threads when you find the sweet spot where the screws are tight but will still allow the piston sear to engage.

Hope that helps, it sounds a lot like the problem I had.

I had the same problem with my piston not engaging a while ago. Try loosening the trigger screws a tiny bit so that they're tight but not super tight. If you utilize the quick-detach function and don't take your trigger off too often then go ahead and put some threadlock in those threads when you find the sweet spot where the screws are tight but will still allow the piston sear to engage.

Hope that helps, it sounds a lot like the problem I had.

caliber45 said:
I'm not sure where real rifles and heat got into this topic???
In a real rifle, parts (mostly barrels) will have a break-in period where the metal settles. As we all know, metal becomes soft when heated. When you fire a brand new gun that is the first time the barrel has experienced intense heat since it was made so it undergoes some degree of transformation from break-in.

Real rifles and the effects of heat came into the discussion when you mentioned airsoft parts requiring break-in. The science behind this is insufficient to the claim because there is no heat involved that would change an airsoft part's performance. Thus, any change in behavior is merely another force acting on said part may it be dirt, damage, moisture or improper (re)assembly. An airsoft trigger would not require break-in as it works flawlessly the day you get it and declines in performance(however so slightly) from the day you install it onward.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Sounds good embed. I'm using allen/hex screws too, so they're tighter than a fully threaded phillips. I actually just lost the looser of one of the black screws holding one of the tiny gold plates the screws go into, but they're not exactly necessary...anyway, it's opened up so I can try that out any time.
 

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Embed said:
In a real rifle, parts (mostly barrels) will have a break-in period where the metal settles. As we all know, metal becomes soft when heated. When you fire a brand new gun that is the first time the barrel has experienced intense heat since it was made so it undergoes some degree of transformation from break-in.
This is a common misconception with sniper rifles, which we professionals refer to as "voodoo precision". In "voodoo precision" people are using their high-end weapon systems and following steps without knowing exactly why it's working. As far as they know, it's all magic...

People will tell you about so many rounds of break-in before a weapon system is really hitting it's sweet spot. Ever hear of a "break-in period" for a Kalashnikov or Glock? For guns like $2000+ 1911's it usually because the tolerances are very tight and you need a couple thousand rounds of weapon cycling for the weapon to settle its part in consistent harmony. But there aren't that many moving parts for your classic bolt action.

When it comes to sniper rifles, the break-in period is caused by the same phenomenon that occurs with your cold bore shot. In the case of a "cold bore", when you fire the first round it will impact different from where subsequent shots group. Clean the weapon exactly the same way, every time, and you can properly anticipate where the initial round will print.

It's because of both cleaning residue left in the barrel and copper fouling from the bullet traveling the lands and grooves. This is why you'll more and more see the cold bore shot referred to as CCB, for "Clean/Cold Bore".

The difference is: If I shoot 10 groups within 20 minutes, then leave the weapon in that spot until the same time the next day (without cleaning and all things like temperature and humidity being equal), then shoot again the next day, it will print the groups in the same spot without an initial CCB shot.

If my high-end, high-dollar sniper rifle requires a break-in period, I'm going to be pissed. That's what I'm supposed to be paying for. If you made a barrel that requires a coat of copper to fill in imperfections, then you shouldn't be charging so much for your gun.

However, depending on the prior use of your weapon and how it's been cleaned, it may require accurate documentation and a consistent cleaning procedure to know your CCB. After so much fouling and improper cleaning, cleaning out all the copper may actually cause accuracy to suffer.
 

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Thanks for clearin' that up, Phridum.

Zulu, did you replace the screws only or did you enlarge the threads as well? I had no trouble finding the perfect size screws after I tapped my receiver.
 
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