Quick question, almost got my baby finished.

2295 Views 15 Replies 5 Participants Last post by zulu, Mar 21, 2009

zulu

Discussion Starter · Mar 5, 2009

I've sunk everything possible into the rifle...only stock parts are the RIS rails, bolt handle, and receiver (I even have the PDI one, I'm just too lazy to sand it). I've even replaced the mag catch and all those small internal parts you don't think about

Using .43 madbulls, swapped my inner barrel for promo, and it's shooting with a good amount/consistency of hop with a TM bucking (finally)...that might change, but I'm good for now.

My last question until I get back in the field is: I bought the parts for a laylax cylinder set separately and assembled/installed them, and my cylinder is still picky about how it catches on the piston sear when I pull it all the way back. There's a technique to it that works, but if it's not pulled straight back strongly, it won't lock in and will retain tension. Is this anything to be concerned about? I've really only noticed this recently because of my weakened condition after surgery.

I'm using a zero trigger, by the way. I replaced the screws, etc. and it's anchored firmly, with the piston sear engaged. There is no wear on any of the parts concerned.

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caliber45

· #2 · Mar 14, 2009

I think I know what your talking about. I've experienced this situation a few times with my vsr and l96, when the zero trigger was like brand new. Is one of the sears sticking in the zero trigger? it takes some-time before the zero trigger breaks in. After you get about 1,000 (give or take a few hundred), you won't experience this issue anymore.

Is this what your talking about? Try firing your l96, and if it won't catch after you shoot, take apart the gun and look inside of your zero trigger. There should be one sear (the farthest to the front, of the trigger) that sticks in the upright position. Take a small Allen and push the sear back again. continue shooting and working that sear back and you'll notice you can get allot more shots in, before it sticks.So its best to leave the upper receiver off the stock.

Just give it some-time for the rifle to break in. This applys to just about every brand new sniper, and zero trigger system.

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caliber45

· #4 · Mar 17, 2009

I wouldn't recommend taking the zero trigger apart.

I would recommend;
Take your cylinder apart.
once the spring, piston, and spring guide is out. Take a flash light, and shine it in the cylinder. Make sure theres no Foreign objects wedged in the back end. Whipe everything down and re-apply grease.

Is there one sear that sticks, or is it just simply a sear won't grab the piston?

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caliber45

· #8 · Mar 19, 2009

Livonia said:
Caliber, all the talk about any sort of break in period is bullshit. Metal isnt heating up like a real steel would. It doesn't make any sense at all.

Check how much clearance you have with your piston sear on the piston lip. Are you still using the spring guide rod? Make sure there is no wear on your piston sear too.

I'm not sure where real rifles and heat got into this topic??? lol did I say anything about heat to metal?

I'm not going to say its a matter of opinion, I'm just going to say its a matter of experiences. Whether you in particular don't believe in breaking in parts on a new sniper rifle, I respect that. However, don't claim other people who do, are full of it.

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