Airsoft Sniper Forum banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,045 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here I go again, rattling the cage of those that think all you need is Laylax/ Edgi parts to make your sniperz sooper leet!!!

I in no way would recommend you follow these instructions/ideas if you are in anyway unable to confidently/competently work on your gun, or you have not done at least some minor modding to airsoft weapons before. These mods are definitely not for the beginner ;)

First strip your gun in to component parts, If I get posts asking how to do this off the back of this post don't expect a pleasant reply


You will need -

Car Body Filler
A bolt approximatly 30mm long with an allen key head that fits the thread on the piston airbrake hole
Heat shrink tubeing in various sizes
Brass tube of 5mm and 4.5 mm external diameter
10mm copper heating pipe
Super glue (Cyanoacrylicate)
A selection of .5mm increment HSS drill bits
A high speed electric drill
Fine hack saw
Fine wet and dry sand paper and emery cloth
One of these

And some of this

For those that don't know what it is, its nail polish, clear is best, but the colour your mum, wife, girl/boyfriend has in her hand bag will be fine ;)
Some Silicon Bath sealant, about 3 tubes
Some 4" nails

First up, make the rifle feel the part and make it more controlable by adding weight, especialy to the butt stock, easiest way is to use the silicon sealant and the nails. Load all the spare space not taken up by the guns workings with the silicon, and where length will allow stick in the nails, like this -



Now before all you wise arses out there say 'Thats not a VSR stock', your wrong, it is if your name is Vindicare Assassin
For a standard stock you'll just have to use your imagination as to how best to fill it ;)

Next up the cylinder head

First clamp the cylinder head firmly. Now using a 5mm drill bit bore out the nozzle all the way through. Take the cylinder head and put it nozzle first into the chuck of the drill. With the drill on full speed use the emery cloth to sand a deep flowing cone shape into the face of the head. For reasons of experimentation I had to build mine out of body filler, but if you are using a stock head you should be able to do this by modding the original (poor effort at a) port, most after market heads are already ported so doesn't need doing. You should get something that looks like this, only in a nice shiney brass colour ;)



Note the rubber buffer pads made out of 'O'rings, cheaper than anything Laylax makes and just as effective ;)
Next we move to the nozzle end. What we are going to try and make here is a simple venturi, which helps to accelerate the air through the nozzle, helps to reduce noise from the cylinder being transfered and by a little bit of cleverness move the bb into a more effective position in the hop chamber in relation to the nub. Pay attention now, cuz from now on it gets tecnical ;) For this you now need the brass tubing, using superglue, glue the 5mm external diametre tube into the end of the nozzle to a depth of about 6mm and let dry leaving it long ( the following pics are of the mod done to my EBR nozzle, as like an arse I didn't take photos when doing it to the VSR ::)) like so -



Its worth mentioning that before you glue the tube in place it is good practice to de burr the tube and if possible file a shallow countersink into the end to aid air flow.
Once dry cut it off flush with the end of the nozzle and clean up the cut end. Now prepare the 4.5mm tube and glue this into the 5mm tube and leave long until the glue drys. This time cut the tube about 1 mm longer than the original nozzle. Now with a metal file, file the tube, keeping it as square to the original nozzle face as possible until you have about .5mm sticking out of the nozzle end, its now time to file or grind using a dremmel a countersink into the exit end of the nozzle being carefull not to damage the new extended section length. You should now have a nozzle that looks like this on the end -



Finaly, take a length of appropriate size heat shrink and do this with it, note a small amount of superglue on the nozzle first will help keep it on for pretty much ever if done right ;)



Once dry and cool give it 2 coats of nail polish down to the first shoulder and let dry for at least 24 hours :)

If you look down the nozzle from the piston end it should look like this



You'll notice how the hole at the end is now much smaller than the nozzle tube, there by creating our venturi


Next up The piston

If you have a Laylax piston with a screw in airbrake take it out, if you have to grub screw in, again take it out. Also take the 'O' ring off. Now you remember our nice port we cut into our cylinder head, we now need to make a matching airbrake to fit it to fit to the piston. Take the bolt you bought/scrounged out the garage and using car filler roughly mould a shape on the bolt that looks like it corresponds the port in your cylinder head ( its best to go bigger as you can always sand it smaller) leaving about 8/10mm of the end thread clean. Leave to harden. Now put the threaded end in the drill chuck and turn it on, using the emery cloth, sand the filler to fit the port as close as possible, this will take a long time and might require a file to file the bolt head down enough to fit in the nozzle tube. If you go to mad, or like what happened to me the filler broke up just below the bolt head fear not for you can make up the thickness with heat shrink. When you have done the fitting you will need to cut/file the back of the filler so it is flat to bolt against the piston head face. When all is complete and the bolt screwed into the piston you should have what looks like this -



Next stretch the 'O'ring by pushing over the cylinder end, then gently apply heat using a lighter or heat gun and let cool. Re apply grease an pop it back on the piston.

Now comes the cylinder

What we are trying to do here is balance the working volume of the cylinder with that of the internal volume of the barrel. You will need to know the inner diameter of your barrel and over all length, you will also need to know the volume of your cylinder from the front face of your piston when it is in the cocked position and the back of the cylinder head when its screwed into the cylinder. Its absalutly critical you get these measurements as accurate as possible as get it wrong and it will cost you a new cylinder. Here is a calculator to get the volumes http://www.online-calculators.co.uk/volumetric/cylindervolume.php. The optimum volume of the cylinder should be between 1.6 and 1.9 times the volume of your barrel, so if you work out the volume of your barrel first you can then play about with the volume calculator to find the volume your cylinder should be and by default the distance your vent holes should be from the back of the cylinder head. I worked out my calculations on a 1.7 ratio, using a 6.04 x 450mm barrel and stock cylinder. Once you have found out how far off the back of the cylinder head the vents need to be mark a line around the cylinder, then using a 1,5mm drill carefully drill 5/6 holes in the cylinder, IIrc mine was 63mm from the back of my cylinder head. You will now have to clean the burrs off the inside of the cylinder, using very fine sand paper, emery cloth or even fine wire wool, so long as it doesn't scratch the crap out of the cylinder walls its good. Take your time and make sure its done right as if you leave any burrs in place it will shread your 'O'ring in no time, and thats bad for air seal. Roughly what it should look like when you finish



The Theory

The idea behind this is that if you match the volumes there will be enough air to push the bb all the way down the barrel at the required speed and pressure but there will not be enough to create excess noise from the muzzle, plus it gives the piston the chance to accelerate before it hits the point it starts to need to compress the air to move the bb, there by creating more of an efficient energy transfer which can, in theory up your FPS a tab into the bargain ;)

Now make some of these out of 10mm copper heating pipe.



These are your friend when it comes to fine tuning your FPS. Make a selection in 1mm increments, but what you will find is that , depending on the spring you use, the spacers will make the spring coil bound ( the compressed spring will lock up on all its coils before the piston has a chance to cock onto its sear) This is trial and error fitting for different springs, but once you have found the longest you can use for your spring and still get the gun to cock and have recorded the fps given by that combination, you can then make smaller spacers at 1mm intervals.

Next the Hop

First, if you have a Nineball or standard hop rubber go do the Firefly mod I described in the Tech section.
I have been relyably informed whipping the rubber to the barrel is the way forward, but I had already rebuilt my hop when I had this discusion, so I have done my usual silicon sealant and teflon tape, but when I next take it apart I'll do a how to on barrel whipping ;), but I digress, when reassembling the hop pressure arm into the hop fit a thin shim on the hinge pin to stop the arm from being able to move about/lean from side to side. Before completely reassembling you need to fill the gap between the forks with body filler and file to shape, (note, this is still a work in progress to optimise the shape so expect this to be updated, if all goes to plan I will incorperate a spacer to over come the problem decribed below), like so -



This places more even pressure on the top of the bb. Now I have found that if I use any weight higher than .29 the Nineball hop doesn't seem to provide enough hop pressure, so use a tiny piece of rubber, and fit it under the pressure arm before final reassembly, like so ( bb is in shot to give an idea of size) -



Next Barrel spacers, any airsoft sniper worth his salt should already have these fitted, if not, why not? Barrel stability is key to keeping your bb on target. You could have all the spangliest gear in the world strapped to your cylinder, but if you do't have a stable and solid barrel it means squat! There are various methods of achieving them, if you have a VSR10 its easier to buy them as the tapered barrel makes them a pain to make, G-Specs are easy to make as the bull barrel is the same size all the way down. Here is mine, as you can see its for a G-Spec they stop just short of the barrel end and the rest of the barrel goes into a special sleeve I have made that is inside the silencer -



Agian I can not stress enough, if you have any doughts over carrying out these modifications then don't do them until you feel compitent enough ;) I feel that they have been well worth the time and heart ache, and have gained approx. 30 FPS from these mods alone, with no other mods or spring changes, and have gained an airbrake, which would normaly rob around 30 FPS, and a very quiet rifle, baring in mind I currently play at a 350FPS limit, the only noise is the twang of the spring rattling inside the piston (soon to be corrected by binding in teflon tape) and a pfft from the muzzle, past 5 metres its silent
It also feels better balanced in the hand, both with and without bi-pod attached and now actually feels less nose heavy and easier to bring on target. All in all well worth the effort
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,045 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
As I did the mods as a job lot, I cant comment as to weather it does or not. I'm fairly sure the volume balancing adds a few and in theory the venturi should aswell but buy how much is anybodies guess.

Update on first post - Have now done barrel whipping and hop arm mods, no pics as they came out shockingly bad as I was doing it at night and bulbs are not the best illumination for photos :( Basicaly, take the teflon tape off, get some high strength nylon sewing thread and wind it around the front of the hop rubber 5/7 times and glue the loose ends together, make sure you dont go into the nub opening and all will be good. I gained an extra 5 fps over my silicon sealant and teflon tape I normaly use
.
The hop arm I did as I said I would do and stuck a piece of .5mm thick plastic card to the forks, it now only requires about 2/3rds hop to get a .29 bb to fly straight as opposed to the on the limit it used to be
.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Hmm.. after Saturday I've got to try some of these - had similar ideas for a while but finally got my M40 working again after I nearly killed my EdGI barrel with topsoil I'm not touching it until after this weekends game


I think you'll like what I've done to my PDI hop Vindicare.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Can you please update your post and fix the images, thanks, Photobucket has screwed everyone over.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,597 Posts
We have to be fair on Yogi. The pics do need fixing. Photobucket sucks now.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top