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r-hop database

96K views 169 replies 72 participants last post by  Lutheran  
#1 · (Edited)
I've been looking through the forum for a while (a long while) trying to accumulate all the threads about the r-hop I can find. I found quite a few, but there are a lot of repeats and not all of them actually help us. This is a list of the best threads about the r-hop on this forum.


http://airsoftsniperforum.com/showthread.php?t=5415 (j-hop)
http://airsoftsniperforum.com/showthread.php?t=6192 (r-hop glue question)
http://airsoftsniperforum.com/showthread.php?t=5996 (z-kit, physics)
http://airsoftsniperforum.com/showthread.php?t=5812 (best air seal bucking)
http://airsoftsniperforum.com/showthread.php?t=5365 (z-kit)
http://airsoftsniperforum.com/showthread.php?t=5400 (explanation of different r-hop variants)
http://airsoftsniperforum.com/showthread.php?t=5352 (diy nubs)
http://airsoftsniperforum.com/showthread.php?t=5328 (how to replace the nub)
http://airsoftsniperforum.com/showthread.php?t=4678 (cleaning)
http://airsoftsniperforum.com/showthread.php?t=4363 (rounded hop window corners)
http://airsoftsniperforum.com/showthread.php?t=4251 (durability)
http://airsoftsniperforum.com/showthread.php?t=5079 (installation tutorial, review) This is a really important one!
DIY R-hop Nub Tutorial

Random info that was taken out of threads for ease of access:
- The raw r-hop tubing is from McMaster-Carr and is serial# 5041K54. I feel no guilt in telling people this because HS5 sells perfectly cut patches, this is just raw tubing, and you may never get cuts as perfect as he does. That and as far as I know we only think this is the exact tubing he uses.

I did not make any categories because I don't really see a way to categorize these threads. They are all talking about how to use or install the r-hop, so I left it just as a list.

Now after searching through the forum for a while, I didn't exactly look at the threads too closely, so if I missed some threads or if I should remove some, just let me know. If you guys think I should change around the title/subject for a thread, just let me know. Even if it's something as nitpicky as the ordering, if you guys tell me I will not get offended, it's all to make this thread better.
 
#54 ·
Juggler, how are the Builder's barrel's working? I've been thinking about doing something like that myself for a long time, but lack the machinery/knowledge on how to do it. Plus since I wasn't sure if it was beneficiary I didn't want to take the time/resources and go into it. (Being a working college student isn't fun).

Since I figure the R-hop would cover ER-hop's as well...what is the "standard" length people are cutting their window's too? I've been trying to decide if there is a certain point of no return or what? Shifty on here says he has done his to 20mm...I'm debating how far I can push it in a AUG, G3, and F2000. As well as an L96 and VSR.
 
#55 ·
Since I figure the R-hop would cover ER-hop's as well...what is the "standard" length people are cutting their window's too? I've been trying to decide if there is a certain point of no return or what?
Well technically there is no "point of no return", generally speaking, but the longer the patch the more critical the inner dimensions and surface of the patch are.

I assume most who cut their barrels cut them to within the space in the hopup unit itself. When I did my Tanaka, I had it cut about to 10-12mm, just enough to elongate it, but not too much as to where the patch would pass farther than the nub/arm could depress on it.
 
#57 ·
I did it to mine. It works well except I still haven't found a good way to add an m-nub. I'm planning to try and grind the unit a little bit and make the nub fit. If anyone has suggestion....they would be appreciated:)
 
#58 ·
Ordered my Er-hop yesterday looking forward to getting it I'm going to mod the barrel hopup window to accept the large Er-hop. Once I receive I will get some pics of the mod and test data loaded to show the results. I also have a Prometheus smooth hopup bucking on the way. I hope it all works out doing the mods. Just so everyone knows I am modding a utg m324 gen 5, stock I was getting about a 12-14" grouping with a straggler every now a again at 200'.
 
#60 ·
@Boosted- What the heck are you talking about? I don't think I got everything; you aren't very coherent.

The benefit of the r-hop is the longer contact area of the bb with the patch, so elongating the hop window to make more room for the contact patch is a good thing.

I'm assuming you mean HS5 when you say hunter. Can you tell us exactly what you asked him?

Please speak in a way we can understand you, and lose the underlines. It makes you look like a spammer.
 
#61 ·
I have no idea where those lines came from. In regards to your reply, this is what the heck i'm on about. You don't cut/chop a standard, non-AEG barrel for the sake of an ER-hop, kapish? Its a waste of your time, simple. Yes HS5 said this to me. You don't put an ER hop onto a non AEG barrel.
Complete and utter waste of time.

You want the FULL benefits of an ER-IR-hop? Then get an AEG barrel.

Thats what the heck i'm on about.
 
#62 ·
I apologize about the lines thing. I didn't realize you didn't do that purposely.

Like I said, what exactly did you ask him? You are telling us the answer to a question we don't know about.

You aren't giving us the logic behind your statements. As far as I'm concerned, there is no difference between a vsr barrel and an aeg barrel, other than the grooves for the bucking. They are both rubes of either brass, aluminum, or steel, and will behave the same way no matter what the groove pattern is on the outside.
 
#64 ·
I apologize about the lines thing. I didn't realize you didn't do that purposely.

Like I said, what exactly did you ask him? You are telling us the answer to a question we don't know about.

You aren't giving us the logic behind your statements. As far as I'm concerned, there is no difference between a BASR barrel and an aeg barrel, other than the grooves for the bucking. They are both tubes of either brass, aluminum, or steel, and will behave the same way no matter what the groove pattern is on the outside.
@Boosted Six- I'm genuinely curious what you asked HS5. You haven't explained why an AEG barrel is better than any other barrel, and you haven't explained what it was that brought you to tell us that AEG barrels are better.
 
#63 ·
Just got the rhop done incompletely in my L96. With the way the PDI unit is set up, we would have to grind the unit itself to get full contact with the mnubs on the patch, so right now we have about 1/2 the contact we should in my rifle. Managed to squeeze another 30 feet out of the gun though.

Even that little bit makes me happy, but getting it done correctly will have to wait... I have Blind Fury in Ohio this weekend, and I want to let her get broken in before I decide to go even further with it.
 
#68 ·
I was wondering if any of you guys could post video results of your rhoped or ER-hopped BASRs. A shooting test at say 75 yards measured on camera. There seems to be a lack of evidence for the ER-hops if you try to find any. Everyone always says they are fantastic but i dont understand why people dont post shooting tests to prove it? Can anyone step up to the plate?
 
#70 ·
I think it would be a great idea if everybody that has the r-hop or some variation installed in their gun to do a shooting test at like 200 feet on a 2ftx2ft target(or something similar) and post their results with the specifications of their rifle and if they used a bipod, gun rest, free hand, ect. Then put it all in the first post( if ok with mj since its his thread) with the testers name beside it.

So we can compare or results.
 
#71 ·
Will be doing that soon with my friends VSR.

I have the glue now, so nothing stopping me. But i'll be integrating the M-nub inside of the bucking so it's touching the R-hop directly, so it won't be a standard drop in and sand, etc, for i get rid of the hop arm completely. Hopefully by next weekend i'll have a range test done.
 
#72 ·
The video postes by Boosted was my rifle when i sand it to Reezo for M-nub and R-Hop installation.
Then when it come back to me i made some more mods and i personally try to install the R-hop patch, at the end i was able to hit body dimension at 210 feet 9/10 with bioval 0.30 at 330FPS (0.20BBs) :)
 
#73 ·
Hi 4ce, what other mods did you do?

I'm a little concerned about the R-hop actually, have just been trying to install one for the last hour and i'm getting nowhere.

I don't see how a perfect channel can be sanded with a nail and sand paper, seems a little dodgy to me.. Think i might go back to the Nineball and forget about it...weird.
 
#74 ·
#75 ·
@Boosted- It takes a little while to get the hang of it. It took me a few patches before I finally got it right, but I was a bit of an extreme case. That's why you get three patches, not just one.

You don't need to have the channel be a perfect 6mm radius curve, you just need it to be straight and level. I took a small plastic tube with an ID the same as the OD of the r-hop, and glued some sandpaper in it to hold me r-hop while I sanded it.

I'm still really curious what you asked HS5 to make you tell us anything but an AEG barrel won't do us any good. You haven't told us why yet.
 
#76 · (Edited)
Nope have had no luck with it, and will be, or rather have to now throw the old bucking on, over 3 hours actually.

It's impossible for me to get a perfect straight and even channel, way too many variable for error. I mean when i first looked at it, i thought you've got to be kidding me? Why should i have to remove so much damn rubber...arrgh.

Anyway, cost me $50 doing this, kit is ruined, and sure as hell wont be trying again. Over it.
Back to nineball lol.

Those videos show nothing, thanks anyway, if there wasn't so much rubber to remove, then it wouldn't be so bad. One guy said he saw no difference when he r-hopped his VSR, so that will make me feel better about the whole thing.
 
#80 ·
Nope have had no luck with it, and will be, or rather have to now throw the old bucking on, over 3 hours actually.

It's impossible for me to get a perfect straight and even channel, way too many variable for error. I mean when i first looked at it, i thought you've got to be kidding me? Why should i have to remove so much damn rubber...arrgh.

Anyway, cost me $50 doing this, kit is ruined, and sure as hell wont be trying again. Over it.
Back to nineball lol.

Those videos show nothing, thanks anyway, if there wasn't so much rubber to remove, then it wouldn't be so bad. One guy said he saw no difference when he r-hopped his VSR, so that will make me feel better about the whole thing.
Hs5 sells now the zkit ,with it you dont have to sand the inner chanel. just the outer side,to have it flash with your barrel ,and your good to go 20 o 30 minutes work. there is video from hs5 and airbone it is called alternate instalation method, i will try to get the link

Enviado desde mi GT-I9000 usando Tapatalk 2
 

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#77 ·
just received my angel custom hop chamber with the elongated bucking, so I can now fit an ER hop to my vsr.

got the patch almost sanded down to the correct size so I started testing and I came across something very odd.......

I put some 0.43 bbs in for a test fire, they were hopping perfectly with no hop applied, so I thought I would try some 0.4 and 0.3g bbs.

the thing I found is the lighter the bb the more hop needs to be applied which kind of puzzled me, I thought that you needed to apply more hop for heavier rounds???
 
#78 ·
I have always understood that with R-hops that you cut it to fit and then sand it down to hop your chosen weight of BB,. Anything lighter than that will require more material removing, anything heavier will require hop applying.

So.... I don't know why you're having to apply hop for lighter weights.
 
#83 ·
well i just went for it! got myself a IR-hop Z Kit and it should arrive witihin the next few days!

A few questions tho:
- Is the installation that easy? I own a Bar-10. Should i do it as shown in the video from Airborne101
-once it is tuned, you can only stay with 1 bb weight. is this true? I use .3s, .36s and .4g bbs, depending on the situation (weather, light, game....etc). I hope this isnt so. i would love to use my .3s in it, then turn my TDC screw a tad, use the .36s and then .4s. PLEASE LET ME KNOW IF THIS IS POSSIBLE!!!
- what nub should i use? or is the stock Bar10/vsr 10 hop up arm enough? I filled the space between the 2 prongs with epoxy, and sanded it flat. I didnt get the M-nub, as i find it too expensive for something like that.
-i heard a pink eraser works well as a nub? if so, are there any fotos/tutorials on how to shape it, glue/place it, if between the rhop and bucking, or between bucking and hop up arm?
-to glue or not to glue? does one have to do this? (i mean glue the sides of the r hop onto the window

I hope you guys can help me. i have a match on saturday, and i t should be here on thursday...i hope it get it to work by then!!

Thanks
 
#84 ·
- Is the installation that easy? I own a Bar-10. Should i do it as shown in the video from Airborne101
It takes a knack to get it right. I always tell people not to get the z-kit because it gives you three different widths of r-hops. This means that if the smallest one fits in your barrel, you have 2 spares you can cut down, but if the largest one fits, you wasted money on two you will never use. Most people mess up their first time installing (I went through a few before I got it to work right). The z-kit only cuts the legs of the patch for you, but it doesn't sand the channel for you.

-once it is tuned, you can only stay with 1 bb weight. is this true? I use .3s, .36s and .4g bbs, depending on the situation (weather, light, game....etc). I hope this isnt so. i would love to use my .3s in it, then turn my TDC screw a tad, use the .36s and then .4s. PLEASE LET ME KNOW IF THIS IS POSSIBLE!!!
Dude, inside voice. No one likes caps. It will just make people think you are some noob and it isn't worth answering.

I like to sand the r-hop so it is flush with the inside of the barrel. This means that a bb will not get any hop unless you apply pressure. If you can get it like that, you will just need to add more pressure to hop heavier bbs.

- what nub should i use? or is the stock Bar10/vsr 10 hop up arm enough? I filled the space between the 2 prongs with epoxy, and sanded it flat. I didnt get the M-nub, as i find it too expensive for something like that.
That's answered in the first post...

-i heard a pink eraser works well as a nub? if so, are there any fotos/tutorials on how to shape it, glue/place it, if between the rhop and bucking, or between bucking and hop up arm?
Also answered in the first post...

-to glue or not to glue? does one have to do this? (i mean glue the sides of the r hop onto the window
You just have a thing about not reading the first post, don't you? Go read through the rest of the thread, and especially the first post.