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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
My true-to-life installation log and testing of the R-Hop on my Tanaka M40A1. I recorded this completely unscripted, from the beginning, for my first R-Hop installation ever.

Quoting R-Hop creator, HunterSeeker: "The idea behind the R-hop is to produce an extended contact with the BB for more gentle and precise acceleration resulting in longer flatter trajectories which are far more accurate and more tolerant of inconsistencies within the BB."

For the specifications of my Tanaka M40A1 rifle, visit:
http://reezo.no-ip.info/en/my-tanaka-m40a1.html

PART 1: First install and testing
 

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Pretty solid looking video! I ilke the mod you did to your table as well..... i might have to copy that when it comes time for me to R-hop things
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks guys! I am happy you liked it! More videos might become available in the near future, in the meantime, thanks for watching and subscribing!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I wish my computer would let me see the video. You said my first name...
Yeah eheh I stole it for a good cause ;) look around, get a hold of somebody else's computer and tell him/her it is a matter of life and death (than look at the owner's face as soon as you are like 30 seconds into the video.. ;)).
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
QUICK UPDATE: today's test sessions showed me that it takes a very small amount of twisting the hop up adjustment knob to get from zero hop to overhop.

Instead of modifying the Hop by using more sandpaper on the inside, I am going to reduce the length of my hop up arm: the reason for this is that now I have to stay almost completely unscrewed to have a minimal hop..because the arm is too long compared to the treads on which the knobs turns..

Many of you know that the Tanaka and KJW hop up knobs have small dots on the bottom, and get pushed by a small pin that helps "save the setting" in pressure for the hop arm.

Right now I have to stay so much "unscrewed" that the arm has almost no pressure from the pin and not enough turns into the threads to stay in place.

By reducing the hop up nub (I will find a similar candidate, only shorter in height) I will be able to have my hop arm more screwed into the threads thus staying more secure and pushed in position by the small retaining adjustment pin.

I hope this made sense to those who read this report ;)
 

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Great guide, man, really. I just have a one thing to you. At 12:25, there is a car passing by the place you were shooting at. Safety first, right? ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Great guide, man, really. I just have a one thing to you. At 12:25, there is a car passing by the place you were shooting at. Safety first, right? ;)
Ahah yes what looks like an innocent bystander is a friend of mine moving stuff around and he was perfectly aware that the range was cold ;)



That one is a private area of mixed open field and woods (mostly spruce, chestnut and turkey oak trees).

Thanks for the great comments, I cannot stop writing that I really appreciate them (who wouldn't!)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Quick update on the matter..I kept finishing the R-hop with some silicone oil on the sandpaper and it's now got an extremely good finish (thanks Maekii for the trick ).

I know for sure that the the R-hop inside is filed enough not to get any hop when the arm is not pushing on it.

I've built my own snibble out of a thin plastic part but I was getting overhop just by installing it. I think there is little to no room inside the bucking to fit one (this is a good thing, actually). I might try and install the snibbe OVER the bucking instead of over the R-hop..but I want to experiment with the new nub, first.

I removed the King Arms metal nub and replaced it with a similar one I've built from soft rubber. I've put one that is too short and I wasn't getting any hop even at the max setting. I am now going to install a new, longer one and keep testing until I start getting some hop.

My idea is that, by having a soft nub over the bucking there is going to be enough even pressure already to push the R-hop consistently down inside the barrel.

I'll keep you up ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Another quick update:

The idea of a soft nub worked perfectly. I am going to make a video summarizing the after-installation report and thoughts because this -REALLY- deserves an updated video.

The gun shoots like an arrow, I've been testing it today with slight rain and weak wind gusts and I was able to hit consistently - 100% of the time - a man-sized target of around 2x2ft at over 65 meters (~210ft), at 100PSI in my dual-regulated rig, with 12g CO2 canisters and Madbull .4g BBs..firing from a standing, unsupported position.

I am incredibly happy with the performance of the R-hop, I am at that point where I am so excited because I know I will install it in my G&P WOC SR-15 GBB and - if I had time and good will - even in my KSC P226 pistol eheh (which I think isn't going to be that compatible).

Anyway, written words don't pay justice, I will make sure a new video is up where I summarize my entire first installation experience. Hopefully this will prove useful to others.

Oh and of course, a separate video with some test shots!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Sigh.. how come everyone can get the R-hop working.. and I still can't get it to shoot accurately? T_T
If you had the money to cover the expenses I would be happy to get your rifle and install the R-hop myself, completely for free, then send it back to you. I live in Italy so that might become an issue for shipping times/costs, but I am available nonetheless :)

Bottom line, learn learn learn and practice practice practice, it is not hard :)
 

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Thanks Reezo, but Italy is slightly too far :)

Haha, that's what I learned from one of the users here that also lives in HK. He's helped me alot but I'm starting to think its my parts in my Star SL8 that's causing some trouble.

The worst part is that I can't test at home because my apartment is facing another apartment that has white walls T_T.

I think my DIY nub also is causing some issues... T_T
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
One thing I can tell you is that - in my experience - the nub is as important as the hop up rubber. No matter how good my R-hop install was, it was until I created a soft nub from an eraser that I got the perfect consistency and setting stability.
 

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Glad all went smooth man... I'll experience with R hop up in the next month (hopefully). I want to extend the range on some of my rifles without increasing the fps.


Wolf
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Glad all went smooth man... I'll experience with R hop up in the next month (hopefully). I want to extend the range on some of my rifles without increasing the fps.

Wolf
Thanks mate, I am going to release a new video where I will summarize my after installation considerations, to gather all I've learnt in one sequel-video..and then: test shots! :)
 

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Yup. Also using an eraser nub. But I think the eraser is wearing out (stays in compressed state after a while). I am using a RADAR brand eraser.

I also hear the foam from Nerf darts are good too?
 

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I've been using nerf dart foam but at this point it is staying compressed. I didn't know erasers could stay compressed too? Maybe the rubber from one of those small bouncy balls would work. It might take a very sharp blade though because that kind of rubber flakes easily.
 

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This famous R-hop... Is it only best for BASR or would you recommend it for a DMR too?

Otherwise, NICE VIDEO! Just a small note, why the heck are you naked? :(
 
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