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R-hop, J-hop, hop on pop?

16693 Views 19 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  arcticd
With all the different hop up styles coming out, what are all of the different kinds? and what are the differences in all of them? Some names I have heard of are: r-hop, J-Hop, IR-Hop, ER-Hop, and T-Hop. I have no info on them other than that though.(any help is appreciated)
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r-hop, R-hop, IR-hop, ER-hop, IER-hop are all the same basic principle based on HS5's R-hop, which he developed from the G-hop by Ishioka (Gungineer Matrix/Gunsmith Engineer).

The J-hop and/or T-hop I have no idea, but if I had to guess they are flat hop variants.
Do you know where I would be able to find more info? I am going to throw some sort of R-Hop style modification into my M40A3-5, but I don't know the difference.
If you want an R-hop, head over to ASM. There is a lot more information there, and there is quite a bit on this forum as well.

Or, you can click on my sig, I do custom installs.
I was planning on doing it myself, but I found out the differences, These prefixes indicate specialized R-hops. I stands for “ice” and indicates cold weather tolerance, so the IR-hop works in effectively all temperatures. It technically can be frozen, but everything else in your gun would have failed long before the hop. E stands for “extended” and indicates a special longer patch just slightly less than twice as long as an R-hop. These improve performance beyond the regular R-hop. IER is obviously a combination of the two, and is an extended cold tolerant hop. The Z-kit is a three piece set from the ice hop line designed to ease installation.
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R-HOP:


ER-HOP (extended R-Hop):


IR-HOP (cold weather R-hop): Same thing as R-Hop, but made with a different type of rubber so that it is not affected by cold temperatures as easily.

J-HOP: The idea is the same premise of the R-hop, but instead of buying HS5's kits, you MOLD your own R-hop. For more information on J-hop read this thread. http://www.airsoftsociety.com/forums/f10/j-hop-34376/

T-HOP: Don't know about that one, someone want to fill me in?
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looking around a bit, it looks like the T-hop was a mix between an ER-hop and a Flat-hop.
the window was extended and a ridged plate was used to depress a flat hop modded bucking across the now elongated hop window.
That J-jop looks very interesting. I've never heard of it before but it seems simple enough. It's based on the r-hop; you just use silicone caulk/sealant to fill the hopup window while you have a rod filling up the barrel to make sure the caulk takes the right shape. I'll have to try this at some point and see how it works. Silicone caulk rubber is certainly rubbery enough to grip the bb. I'll also have to see if different caulks wield different results.

About the T-hop: this is why I made that whole post on how to google things. I did a google search on the t-hop and came up with this.
That J-jop looks very interesting. I've never heard of it before but it seems simple enough. It's based on the r-hop; you just use silicone caulk/sealant to fill the hopup window while you have a rod filling up the barrel to make sure the caulk takes the right shape. I'll have to try this at some point and see how it works. Silicone caulk rubber is certainly rubbery enough to grip the bb. I'll also have to see if different caulks wield different results.

About the T-hop: this is why I made that whole post on how to google things. I did a google search on the t-hop and came up with this.
I have tried to J-HOP a few times now and haven't had any good results. I tried RTV sealent/permatex, but it was too soft. So far the best i've used seemed to be the silicone. It was 100% silicone calk. I would love to get a thread started here for people trying different materials for the J-hop. So far, the best material seems to be this, But this guy is using an entirely different method than the J-hop and actually casting his own buckings. I've been thinking about doing something similar but i just returned my lathe back to harbor freight a month ago. :doh:

Could the bad results you've gotten have been because the surface the bb contacts isn't smooth enough? HS5 tells us to use at least 400 grit sandpaper on the r-hop so we would need a surface at least that smooth on the j-hops to make legitimate comparisons.

I once saw this instructable on how to make something called "oogoo". It is basically type 1 silicone caulk mixed with cornstarch to make it cure within minutes. The moisture in the cornstarch cures the caulk which absorbs moisture to dry (ironic, huh?). I wonder if the cornstarch would give the caulk that extra hardness to work well. I've made things with the oogoo in the past and it is about the hardness of a hard rubber bouncy ball, and bounces nearly as well.
i am currently trying to do it using 100% pure clear silicon. "architectural grade" if that means anything special. I should know by this time tomorrow how well it works. i used a shishkaabob wrapped in ducktape for the inner diameter
I think you should use either packing tape or teflon tape as the outer layer of your shish kebab so you get the j-hop as smooth as possible. Depending on what duct tape you have it can be pretty smooth but because of the mesh that gives duct tape it's strength, it won't be as smooth as other tapes.
I think you should use either packing tape or teflon tape as the outer layer of your shish kebab so you get the j-hop as smooth as possible. Depending on what duct tape you have it can be pretty smooth but because of the mesh that gives duct tape it's strength, it won't be as smooth as other tapes.
I agree, the surface does need to be very smooth. I used tin tape wrapped around a nail to put into the barrel to seal up the window. The issue i ran into with the silicone was it was glued to the edges of the Hop window and tin tape. I tried coating everything with Petroleum jelly first to keep it from sticking, but that didn't work either. When i removed the nail, i think it tore up part of the bucking slightly. I couldn't get the R-hop off to sand the inside of it either. Even with the tear in it, it wasn't getting bad results, and I do think it would be possible to make this work, but it will take a lot of days and nights of testing and drying to make it work.

The cornstarch seems like a great alternative though! Does it weaken the silicone any? I think I may try this cornstarch idea. I'm going to start a new thread on this because i think it needs one. There is a lot of testing that can be done with this J-hop.
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You should check out the instructables page on the oogoo. The guy explains what the different cornstarch to caulk ratios do, the setting times, what it sticks to, etc. By the way, the oogoo was named after sugru because of their similar characteristics. Just an interesting fact.
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You should check out the instructables page on the oogoo. The guy explains what the different cornstarch to caulk ratios do, the setting times, what it sticks to, etc. By the way, the oogoo was named after sugru because of their similar characteristics. Just an interesting fact.
Ill look it up, By the way, the thread is active in the Rifles & Parts reviews section.
I find J-hop work best with Sika FC 11+ with a Shore A of 37 after 28 days.
usual silicon sealant has Shore A 25. used in 3 joule setup with 0.45g bb for more then 2000 shots
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I find J-hop work best with Sika FC 11+ with a Shore A of 37 after 28 days.
usual silicon sealant has Shore A 25. used in 3 joule setup with 0.45g bb for more then 2000 shots
can you send me a link of product :tup:?
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after install, how long it will be 100% cured? And can be use multi time after open it? Because i'm outside at us/uk, they only sell big tube 600ml ( have to use with glue/silicon gun )?
at least 5 day but for best result like you need to wait according to spec ~28days
but if you are in a hurry 5 days should be ok, like i did :)
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