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R hop or flat hop mod..

21085 Views 30 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  Nitsua Asrat, 
~Ranger~
Has anyone here done the flat hop before? Please tell me something more about it.

I want to install an R hop in my M28 but there is no freaking way I wanna take apart my rifle about 20 times. I just dont wanna,lol.. So the next best option is either R hop my Sr25 cause the hopup is much easier to get to.. then when its perfect, take the barrel back out and put it in my M28? Would it be the same setting or would the different hopup and bucking make things different?

Also, since I just dont wanna fool with an R hop so much, would the flat hop just be the way to go?

I guess its safe to admit I am getting lazy in my old age,haha.. The R hop just seems like too much work! I dont wanna fiddle with it that much. I'm already getting 250ft or so with the stock bucking and excelent accuracy since I shimmed the hopup arm and did the Tdc.. Or should I not even bother since its already a pretty awesome rifle?
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I am going flat hop. According to theory, it give the bb more hop surface before it enters the barrel, resulting in more spin and you know, more range.

Modify has one and others will release theirs because it is simple and works.

Also, I have found that I get more consistency and range with a bore no smaller than a 6.03mm dia, tight bores like 6.01 dia. seems to choke the hop up. I will consider only a 6.01 on short barrels. 383mm or longer, I like using 6.03mm dia.

Forget R Hop. You need a quick release hop up unit before I will consider it.
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How many screws do you need to remove to get at the hop up?
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SJ408 said:
How is the flat hop compared to the R hop?:O Is there like a guide to a flat hop, as I'm also interested in other options besides the R hop, as it does seem very tedious to get right:p
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Different designs.

The flat hop is like your existing but it pushes more of the bucking downwards giving the bb more surface contact area for a prolong spin before leaving the barrel. Imagine putting a good spin on a .43 bb with a M170 or higher spring. Imagine the distance and accuracy! DMR won't come close against a springer with that. AEG's won't get close to you either.
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I have a VFC ASW338LM. No way I will ever consider a R Hop.

I have 20 screws to remove.
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There is no way I am going to disassemble the VFC multiple times for this upgrade. And there is no easy way to do it on a VFC. On my other M24 style of rifles it can be done faster.
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Killer said:
There are also R-hopped barrels out there. even installed by HS5 himself so yeah that would be a good way to go?
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Links please
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Cheese Man said:
R-hop is way better than the flat hop, and is not difficult at all. Like solaris said, just use the hop unit itself to adjust the patch - you don't need to put the whole thing together.
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Is there a video for this?
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The VFC ASW338LM uses AEG cut barrels in its VSR10 hop up unit. If I want to give it a try, I can easily do the set up and testing on a AEG, then move it over to the VFC sniper once I am happy with it.

No doubt bucking makers can easily mold the J-hop style patch as part of the bucking.

Modify released a separate flat nub instead of a molded bucking with an internal flat for a reason.
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Killer said:
http://clandestineairsoft.com/index...search_in_description=1&keyword=r-hop&x=0&y=0

Oh and ive worked on the aw338, it is indeed a real pain to take appart. it is a good lookin rifle though!
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thanks for the link

and the AW338 and VFC ASW338LM are two different animals.

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I am willing give the R-hop a test on my AEG, but prices for a pair is bit steep consider how much work I need to put in to get them working. It would be great since they are molded, to have a notch already in them to save the sanding work.

http://clandestineairsoft.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_41_42&products_id=255
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I saw a few videos on YouTube that shows what is involve with the sanding. These things are molded and really should have the notches already them.

If you are sanding it down by hand, the notches are not going to be level or consistent across the top and when the hop is applied it won't be even.

Question is, why don't HS and other mold a complete bucking with the patch integrated into it?
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