After around a year I like to review my DMR project:
Objective of the project: Semi auto gun with accuracy close to my vsr.
After watching many reviews and making lists to compare stats I picked the G&G SR25 as the base. Main reasons:
replica of a 7.62 realsteel dmr, to meet the dmr requirements of the local fields
V2 gearbox for the possibility to upgrade to hpa
pic rail
14mm ccw thread at the muzzle
not a heavy gun
solid built quality and material
not unreasonably expensive
compatible to many common tuning parts
After playing one game as an aeg, I went for cleaning and lubricating the whole thing and shimming the gearbox. That day I realized that I am no AEG fan. Many small parts than can get lost. Many parts to clean and lubricate. Many parts that wear off. I dont like the noise of it.
I started to compare stats again and decided to pick the Polarstar Kythera. Main reasons for it:
power output of 2.5J is possible, what is the local dmr limit on the local fields
no battery
mechanic/realistic trigger
cheaper than the F2
I paired it with the Polarstar UGS regulator, because I was afraid of the airline snagging on something and ripping off midgame. I now realized this threat is nonexistent, but It is still nice to play hpa without a backpack and an airline.
I put everything together and the remaining issues were all very small, but also important to fix. I needed to fix the kythera in the gearbox, make the airline seal, make the engine seal, install high power springs in the engine and the regulator, make the nozzle align with the bucking and find a bucking that works with my engine.
This took me many months, but 8 months ago I made it work.
Next issue was to find a bucking that works with the Kythera. I tested around 10 buckings, but none had consistent hop. Only the TNR TR Hop did well. The second best Bucking is the Begadi SHP 7.
For the Hop up unit I got the Maxx Me Pro first and the Maxx M4P second. The Me Pro did much better. It only needed some shimming to "lock" it with the outerbarrel.
The gun has a 430mm barrel. I asked many people which barrels to pick and my most experienced friend recommended me Da Vinci. After some nice conversations the guy behind Da Vinci sent me 2 barrels to test. I went with the R-code barrels in stainless steel 430mm in 6.01 and 6.05mm.
The 6.01 worked best: higher power output and more accurate.
For the BBs I went with 0.45g bio bbs, to ensure enough range and accuracy. I tested BLS (1 bb per bag was stuck in my barrel, either I had a bad batch of bbs or they are bad), speedballs (they work), nimrods (they work well) and hpa (they work well). I am going to test 0.48g bbs soon, to see if they give more accuracy and range.
After this long, expensive and exhausting process I tested my gun.
Mission succesful.
On a day without wind I was shooting in a supported stance at 2.5J with 0,45g Nimrod bio BBs at 75meters on a barrel that was as wide as a man and half of his height: 9 hits in a row. With this I built a semi auto gun that is more accurate than my vsr.
For the ingame performance: it is overpowered. I switched to low caps to make it more challenging.
Performance of the used parts:
Polarstar Kythera: 10/10:
works perfectly and without battery, nice trigger. A good amount of grease is needed to make it seal. It works without the charging cord in my gun. Polarstar gearbox shims are needed to fix it inside the gearbox, with them it is perfectly aligned with the hopup. Only works well with very few buckings (TNT TR Hop).
Da Vinci barrel: 10/10
I use the 430mm stainless steel barrel in 6.01 with R-code cut. It shoots great. I like the groove close to the muzzle, where an O-ring can be applied to center the inner barrel in the outer barrel.
Maxx Me Pro: 10/10
some modifications needed to make it fit perfectly into the gun and not move around. After that it works perfectly with the Da Vinci barrel and the TNT bucking. The latch, that stop bbs from dropping out, is saving tons of money from dropping into the dirt.
G&G SR25: 10/10
great base for an hpa dmr. AEG is nothing for me. The only 7.62 gun that I found that uses a standard V2 gearbox (perfect for an hpa engine). Solid and thick walls, zero wobble and not heavy. All mags feed 0,45g bbs perfectly and have long followers, ensuring every BB is fed into the gun. There are black 100 round midcaps and transparent 40 round lowcaps with fake catridges, that look awesome.
Polarstar UGS: 9/10:
Great way to get rid of the backpack and airline. 0,2L tank holds enough air for atleast 700 shots, which is more than I shot on 1 day. Lacks a pressure gauge. Could be sold with the UGS retention nut included, so it has airseal.
Airline from Kythera to UGS: 2/10:
Takes many tries to get it to the perfect length and to seal on higher pressure (around 180 psi operating pressure), unfortunately there are no aftermarket airlines for this application because the distance is to short, so I have to work with the standard 6mm macro line and the Polarstar fittings. If anyone has an idea to upgrade this to a perfectly sealing airline or how to get a fitting aftermarket airline, please tell me.
If anyone has questions, I am happy to answer them. If anyone has ideas to further upgrade my dmr, please tell me.
Kind regards
Marco
Objective of the project: Semi auto gun with accuracy close to my vsr.
After watching many reviews and making lists to compare stats I picked the G&G SR25 as the base. Main reasons:
replica of a 7.62 realsteel dmr, to meet the dmr requirements of the local fields
V2 gearbox for the possibility to upgrade to hpa
pic rail
14mm ccw thread at the muzzle
not a heavy gun
solid built quality and material
not unreasonably expensive
compatible to many common tuning parts
After playing one game as an aeg, I went for cleaning and lubricating the whole thing and shimming the gearbox. That day I realized that I am no AEG fan. Many small parts than can get lost. Many parts to clean and lubricate. Many parts that wear off. I dont like the noise of it.
I started to compare stats again and decided to pick the Polarstar Kythera. Main reasons for it:
power output of 2.5J is possible, what is the local dmr limit on the local fields
no battery
mechanic/realistic trigger
cheaper than the F2
I paired it with the Polarstar UGS regulator, because I was afraid of the airline snagging on something and ripping off midgame. I now realized this threat is nonexistent, but It is still nice to play hpa without a backpack and an airline.
I put everything together and the remaining issues were all very small, but also important to fix. I needed to fix the kythera in the gearbox, make the airline seal, make the engine seal, install high power springs in the engine and the regulator, make the nozzle align with the bucking and find a bucking that works with my engine.
This took me many months, but 8 months ago I made it work.
Next issue was to find a bucking that works with the Kythera. I tested around 10 buckings, but none had consistent hop. Only the TNR TR Hop did well. The second best Bucking is the Begadi SHP 7.
For the Hop up unit I got the Maxx Me Pro first and the Maxx M4P second. The Me Pro did much better. It only needed some shimming to "lock" it with the outerbarrel.
The gun has a 430mm barrel. I asked many people which barrels to pick and my most experienced friend recommended me Da Vinci. After some nice conversations the guy behind Da Vinci sent me 2 barrels to test. I went with the R-code barrels in stainless steel 430mm in 6.01 and 6.05mm.
The 6.01 worked best: higher power output and more accurate.
For the BBs I went with 0.45g bio bbs, to ensure enough range and accuracy. I tested BLS (1 bb per bag was stuck in my barrel, either I had a bad batch of bbs or they are bad), speedballs (they work), nimrods (they work well) and hpa (they work well). I am going to test 0.48g bbs soon, to see if they give more accuracy and range.
After this long, expensive and exhausting process I tested my gun.
Mission succesful.
On a day without wind I was shooting in a supported stance at 2.5J with 0,45g Nimrod bio BBs at 75meters on a barrel that was as wide as a man and half of his height: 9 hits in a row. With this I built a semi auto gun that is more accurate than my vsr.
For the ingame performance: it is overpowered. I switched to low caps to make it more challenging.
Performance of the used parts:
Polarstar Kythera: 10/10:
works perfectly and without battery, nice trigger. A good amount of grease is needed to make it seal. It works without the charging cord in my gun. Polarstar gearbox shims are needed to fix it inside the gearbox, with them it is perfectly aligned with the hopup. Only works well with very few buckings (TNT TR Hop).
Da Vinci barrel: 10/10
I use the 430mm stainless steel barrel in 6.01 with R-code cut. It shoots great. I like the groove close to the muzzle, where an O-ring can be applied to center the inner barrel in the outer barrel.
Maxx Me Pro: 10/10
some modifications needed to make it fit perfectly into the gun and not move around. After that it works perfectly with the Da Vinci barrel and the TNT bucking. The latch, that stop bbs from dropping out, is saving tons of money from dropping into the dirt.
G&G SR25: 10/10
great base for an hpa dmr. AEG is nothing for me. The only 7.62 gun that I found that uses a standard V2 gearbox (perfect for an hpa engine). Solid and thick walls, zero wobble and not heavy. All mags feed 0,45g bbs perfectly and have long followers, ensuring every BB is fed into the gun. There are black 100 round midcaps and transparent 40 round lowcaps with fake catridges, that look awesome.
Polarstar UGS: 9/10:
Great way to get rid of the backpack and airline. 0,2L tank holds enough air for atleast 700 shots, which is more than I shot on 1 day. Lacks a pressure gauge. Could be sold with the UGS retention nut included, so it has airseal.
Airline from Kythera to UGS: 2/10:
Takes many tries to get it to the perfect length and to seal on higher pressure (around 180 psi operating pressure), unfortunately there are no aftermarket airlines for this application because the distance is to short, so I have to work with the standard 6mm macro line and the Polarstar fittings. If anyone has an idea to upgrade this to a perfectly sealing airline or how to get a fitting aftermarket airline, please tell me.
If anyone has questions, I am happy to answer them. If anyone has ideas to further upgrade my dmr, please tell me.
Kind regards
Marco
