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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all, So i took my JG Bar 10 out for a spin today at my local field for the first time after all of my upgrades (signature).

Had a few issues but the most outstanding was how rough the bolt pull was. Often found myself using near full strength just to pull it back. Hit or miss really, some pulls were "smoother" then others, but still, shouldn't be that tough. Pushing it back into place is smooth, just the pull is extremely hard.

Some things I have tried since installation:

-silicon oiled spring, spring guide, piston, etc.
-took approx 1000 shots (in an effort to break in m150 spring)

It almost feels like its grinding on something, one of the guys at the field said I might want to grind down O-ring on piston or spring guide?

I need to buy a new cylinder, but could that be the issue? It is brand new after all.

I guess what I am asking is...help with a rough bolt pull that feels like it is grinding along the way.

Thanks all :mad:
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Not sure what is considered the norm, but my bolt pull is no where near this:


not even close
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
do you think it is something that is grinding? or What would make a bolt pull that hard to pull back?
 

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When I did mine, the screw which goes into the back receiver at the bottom to sercure the outer barrel from rotating was a fraction too long and grinding along the cylinder, so maybe check that by, removing cylinder and reassembling the body, If you feel or see a bolt protruding just remove the bolt and file it shorter also look at the cylinder for any scratch marks
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
after taking it apart today, trying to figure it out it seems like the cylinder is rubbing somewhere within the receiver. I dont think this is the ONLY issue, but perhaps part of the reason. Still digging into this..feels more like an issue with spring/spring guide/cylinder/trigger?

TBD i guess..ordering a new AA cylinder and receiver..hoping this might help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Look at the spring guide stopper, the one inside trigger. It can grind on cylinder .
It could be this potentially, how can I be sure? or better yet, how do I fix this issue?

It does seem like I get a bit of resistance when I first pull the bolt back even like a half-inch.

When I looked at the cylinder, it is getting scratched up on the top (pull bolt handle up, slide back, so technically the side of the cylinder when it is in normal pre-cocked position.
 

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It could be this potentially, how can I be sure? or better yet, how do I fix this issue?

It does seem like I get a bit of resistance when I first pull the bolt back even like a half-inch.

When I looked at the cylinder, it is getting scratched up on the top (pull bolt handle up, slide back, so technically the side of the cylinder when it is in normal pre-cocked position.
get a dremel and polish the sears. All of them until they and shiny and smooth.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The sides of the sears that would be in contact with the slot in the cylinder
I will have to buy one..looks like they are around $30-50..i would be surprised if this is the issue but at this point I have absolutely no idea and no other choice..
 

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I’m no expert so pardon me if I’m wrong or throwing out complete randomness, but did you maybe get a 7mm spring on a 9mm spring guide? If it’s smaller on the spring guide it could bunch up making it a slightly easier pull some times and it wouldn’t cause any noticeable effect when pushing the bolt back in.

Just an idea
 

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When I looked at the cylinder, it is getting scratched up on the top (pull bolt handle up, slide back, so technically the side of the cylinder when it is in normal pre-cocked position.
The cylinder doesn't actually rotate when you cock the rifle, only the bolt handle does.

If it's getting scratched on the top I would recommend removing all screws from the scope rail. Try cocking the rifle without them or the scope rail fitted.

Most VSR scope rails have a 4 screws holding them on. The front one should be shorter than the others so that it doesn't reach through to the cylinder.

Also, to Elfwing: A 7mm spring doesn't fit on a 9mm spring guide.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
I will continue to tinker with it...hopefully can figure it out..

I also dont want to mess with the trigger unit too much..especially not being an expert.
 

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Actually I had the problem where the sears catch on cylinder as well, need to radius the front of their edges. This problem slightly bent the edges of the cylinder hole where sears go in. Not a hard fix though. This is on Springer v.9, otherwise the trigger is just purely awesome.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Actually I had the problem where the sears catch on cylinder as well, need to radius the front of their edges. This problem slightly bent the edges of the cylinder hole where sears go in. Not a hard fix though. This is on Springer v.9, otherwise the trigger is just purely awesome.
how did you fix?
 

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Actually I had

Just radius the edges where they touch cylinder with a file and then polish the radiused places. Radius a little test then if not good enough radius more. To test if you have this problem you will see there are slight marks on the sides of your sears indicating where the cylinder is grinding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
UPDATE:

Tried majority of the fixes above--got slight improvement, but still problems.
I've concluded that I might have a bad spring from AA, so I will look into buying a new spring.

Luckily for me, I over tightened the threading form the reciever to outer barrel, and thats broken now as well. So might actually just scrap this entire VSR and order another because a new outer barrel is like $70+ dollars..
 
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