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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys, I seriously need your help so I can make this rifle skimishable. I have this bolt push that is very rough and it is disturbance/annoyance. I need it to be fixed and I had this problem PRIOR to doing any mods to it. I just got the rifle in the mail today and noticed that the bolt push was very rough. It would skip places and I would first have to set an amount of force and then it would move, but stop, and then move again. It's as if it were... lagging? It's a little hard to explain but it's just the bolt push that is rough. It's not like as if something was rubbing against it but as I said before, I would have to put a lot of force than normal just to push it and it would lag then keep moving. Think of the opposite of a smooth push, that's pretty much what it is.
 

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Your spring guide has probably screwed off if it's screwable, disassemble the gun and put some nail "paint" or something on the screws and screw the spring guide together and wait a while.
What gun do you have?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Wow I am an idiot, I forgot to list the gun name. My gun is a JG BAR-10.

I just got back from school and decided to experiment a bit. I took apart my rifle and re-lubed everything to make sure it's not just a lube problem. Upon putting the rifle back together, I didn't notice that I did not push the Spring Guide Stopper all the way in. When I went to pull the bolt backwards, obviously it did not lock. However, when I pushed the bolt forward (with the spring pushing it forward too due to the fact it wasn't locked and I didn't want to slam the bolt against anything) it was actually decent. It wasn't rough, it wasn't super smooth either(by that I mean hot knife and butter smooth), but it felt like a normal bolt push. Now, I thought "Wow, it must be lube then" and pushed the SGS into place. Went for another test and pull the bolt back smooth. When I went to push the bolt forward, the same exact thing happened, a rough push. So I thought as a guess that the SGS was up too much due to poor quality control and crafted a spacer. It was a very thin spacer of about fingernail thick, out of plastic, and I pushed in in between the "head" of the SGS and the trigger box. Went to do the full transition of bolt pulling/pushing and the same happened with the first result. No lock. No luck either, so I removed the spacer and put the SGS back into place for now.

What I am thinking is it has to do something with the SGS. I checked the spring guide for any problems and it looked OK(I'm a newbie modder, but the spring guide looks intact). I don't know how the SGS has to do with a rough bolt push but it is a key variable in this. Without it, bolt push is FINE. With it, bolt push is ROUGH. I need to know if the SGS is capable of the symptoms shown, because if it is then I could buy a replacement one(perhaps maybe a new trigger box(I don't think a zero trigger, but a trigger box roughly the same quality as the stock one. Not until I invest on a new spring at least).

Perhaps pictures of the Spring Guide, SGS, maybe the cylinder too will help? Or is that not necessary?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
After a long work of examining the problem here is what I had come up with.

1. Cylinder Spacer/Guide Rings needed to be sanded from the inside (greater circumference)
2. SGS needs a sanding on the sides.
3. Various defects where the cylinder is around (the chamber where the cylinder is moving by the opening and such) needs to be sanded.

Pretty much, the problem is a MANUFACTURER DEFECT or POOR QUALITY CONTROL.

What you should do is send the rifle back for a replacement! But, if you chose to open it, most likely your warranty will be voided. So here is what I did to remove most of roughness, however it will not be fully 100% but you will reduce it enough for skirmishes.

1. Take the cylinder ring [front] and sand the inside of the ring, you do not need to sand too much. Just go a bit deeper after you sand the seam off. Also, sand the edge where the cylinder will meet to become a bit rounded.

2. Find any defects in the cylinder chamber and sand it out flat or deeper, I do not know how to fill the deep part but it doesn't seem to affect it. Only parts that surface upward will affect it.

3. Take the SGS and sand the sides that is left and right of where the indent is. It should start out as [] and should be a little noticible to this ) ( but obviously not as drastic.

4. I'm using white lithium grease (make sure non-petroleum) and lube everything. Lube the defects on the cylinder chamber. Take the rings and lube them too. Lube inside cylinder walls, out side cylinder, spring guide sides (not that are touching the spring) and piston.

That is what I did, it just depends on what defects happened but I hope that you are smart and just send it back. I recommend ASMegastore over ASGI because right now the ASGI customer service is very poor and terrible.
 
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