[nbedore23]

So I am building my first ghillie ive purchased the items and they are being shipped to me. I bought

MFH Boonie (ATACS-FG)
MFH Commando Smock (ATACS-FG)
MFH ACU Trousers (ATACS-FG)

600D Poly Cordura (ATACS-FG)
Concealment Mesh (ATACS-FG)

Ive asked around work and called some tailor shops but nobody can really help me out.

I thought about sewing it myself, it doesn't need to look pretty but would some cheap sewing machine from Joanns be able to sew through both the Cordura and the Fabric beneath it?

Do any fabric stores do custom orders like this?

Any tips would be greatly appreciated!



PS: If anybody here is from Washington State, Specifically Silverdale. Any help would be awesome.

 

[Masterjuggler98]

Popping in cuz I'm ignoring life and my looming calc and physics finals.

I realize you are not trying to do anything fancy, but if you are like a lot of the people here, you'll end up wanting more, so here's some good info:

If you think you'll use the machine more than once, what you want is one of the old cast iron machines, ideally the Singer 15-91. There is an abundance of info on the internet about them. Check out craigslist, they're a dime a dozen, constantly up for sale. Just search "singer sewing machine" and you'll find what you need. I got two for free (it was a phase in high school, don't go there LOL). They can sew through a quarter inch of 1000D Cordura, and last essentially forever if treated right.

Don't bother with idiots trying to sell them for more than $50 unless they have been totally overhauled in the past two decades (wiring, grease and gunk, etc). Speaking of which, the electric ones may need a little TLC to replace frayed cloth wiring and crap. Maybe a new belt if it's that type. The 15-91 is fully steel geared, smooth as butter with proper lube. Doesn't take more than a few hours to totally gut it and restore it. The treadle ones are also good, and quite a bit more fun. Also should be cheap, as in dirt.

This is a good blog post about them. Also, you'll definitely want to check out the stuff in the download linked to here. It's unfortunate that DIYtactical fell off the face of the earth, they were a fantastic resource for exactly this kind of thing.

If you end up going down that path, feel free to ask any questions about it. I'd prefer questions stay in the thread and out of PMs so others can see too.

 

[nbedore23]

Ive decided to go down the road of using industrial fabric adhesives, this old thread from 2003 on SOCNET has people shoe going canvas to the front, I have shoe goo but im gonna try to use Loctite 200.

 

[bentwings]

I have a Consew 226 R. This is one of the best industrial sewing machines available for heavy duty sewing. Mine has a brand new Servo motor which is needed to slow these down so the new people can use them and for fine work. Industrial sewing machines are heavy. Mine is about 200 pounds. It will sew through 1/4” plywood as well as silk. And I might add fingers . I nearly had to go to ER when I sewed my finger. They are not toys. The only thing that stopped mine was 3/9” double layer nylon rope. I was surprised but I simply have the wrong needles for this stuff. I regularly sew material like seatbelts and tow straps. It would sew virtually anything ina ghillie suit...even a tree branch if it fits under the foot.

These go for 500-700 USD in good operating condition. Most are very old but they simply do not wear out. Cheaper than this there is usually something broken or wrong with them. You will have to take it to an industrial sewing machine repair shop. Most parts are not real expensive but you can expect labor charges.

Learning to use one is not terribly hard but they don’t come with sewing instructions. The best you will get is how to thread them and that is not always exactly right either as you do some different things with different threads. Thread and bobbins are another expense. You can spent $100 pretty quickly on thread and bobbins. You will need a good scissors, stitch cutter, thread sealant, machine oil, a few needles and a good light if the machine Doesn’t come with one.

A home sewing machine will be marginal for anything heavier than jean material. They run $100 and up. Most have multi stitch control which is handy sometimes and some can get into tighter spaces.

I’d suggest you superglue what ever needed to be connected and go to a seamstress or shoe repair shop for final sewing.

I often super glue or water base contact cement things together before sewing. I have a bunch of pins too that the machine simply either bends or sews around. They get sticky sometimes and one deep in a finger or under a finger nail really hurt. Don’t even ask how I know this. NALOL

Byron

 

[Sniperfitter]

Shoe goo is your friend. Easy and fast

 

[Tssniper01]

For starters, you are making this much harder than it has to be. As a user of ATACS i love the pattern FG or AU, but for a ghillie that you're going to cover up the pattern anyhow with exterior covering, jutte, burlap etc, just go with a pair of regular BDU's (2 x the size you actually wear). Cut a hole in the back of the shirt shoe goo some mesh on it. Add knee and elbow pads with canvas or other material. Grid it the uniform using shoe goo and paracord or elastic banding, hang your threads. This is how we did it in the Corps. Also STAY AWAY from the synthetic threads. Go with burlap threads- you'll be much happier with the finished product and even moreso after your broken it in. The synthetics stick to themselves and never hang right, ends up looking like a blotchy mess. 2nd tip, don't overdo the coverings, you dont need to do every single row of gridding. it will get hot and if it gets wet, very heavy.I skip the verticals and do every other horizontal row and then fill where needed. the object of the game here is to breakup the human form shape, not look like a bushy ewok. It takes alot less material than you would think to do that.
i did end up making a "summer suit" out of concealment mesh works great very breathable, lightweight and compact. But if this is your first suit keep it simple. I built a top half viper minus the hood, built my boonie around it and went with desert tiger stripe pants for fall and winter. I use atacs FG for the spring and summer, sometimes AU depending on where Im playing. Some folks say I just disappear 10 feet in front of them with this combination.
Lastly, its not the ghillie that will make you invisible per se', there are skills that need to be learned when using one, ie how to move in it, when to stay still and how to mimick your surroundings when you do move, how to spot natural depressions in your terrain and use them to your advantage, etc. Often you can just get away with using a boonie with natural veg. And dont forget your weapon, they need camo too.
Not trying to dissuade you from your endeavor, just trying to offer to tips to make your experience of ghillie building easier and enjoyable( mine take roughly 40 hours to build properly).

 

[Masterjuggler98]

Wow, can you say necro post? I didn't even realize I was still getting notifications for thread subscriptions.

Please try to look at the post dates before you reply, guys. The OP hasn't even logged in since 09-06-2018.

 

[Tssniper01]

sorry thought a saw it as a new post today

 

[J4ff4]

No big deal, the thread is old, but the info is still usefull for other members.. So if you asked me, keep on necro-ing

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-N950F met Tapatalk

 

[Sniperfitter]

Zip ties and shoe goo are your friends with ghillie suit building

 

[Straightshot]

I make my owm kit and use a bog standard sewing machine. Cordura (100) is easy to sew.. go for it its fun

 

[Danger_MouseUK]

I have made a few bits and pieces, my current project Ghillie Suit has a threat on here.
I can strongly recommend the way I went, buy a old hand cranked Singer sewing machine off Ebay. I got a 99k for £20 a few years ago.
Those things will go through leather without breaking a sweat, and being hand cranked they are more precise. I can sew through plastic click dock plates if I soften them a bit with the heat of a hair dryer.
Look after it, oil it, use decent thread and quality leather or canvas needles and your off to the races.