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Silverback MDR-X

7979 Views 136 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  Leo Greer
Intriguing. Probably over-engineered. I'm pondering how solid it could be as a long-range platform...with an Edgi barrel and Warhead motor.

-CNC aluminium wide bore cylinder/upper gearbox (26mm diameter, +19% compared to a standard AEG), including a spring quick change design.
-CNC aluminium cylinder head, NBR piston damper, stainless steel nozzle.
-CNC aluminium ventilated piston head, FKM o-ring, POM glider ring.
-CNC stainless steel & aluminium spring guide, equipped with a thrust bearing. 3 lugs design ensuring a better axial alignment.
- “Tappet plate-less” construction.
-CNC aluminium piston body, hardened MIM steel 16 teeth rack.
-18:1 torque up gear set, hardened MIM steel.
-ADC 12 aluminium gearbox carter, 10mm ball bearing.
-Designed to operate on 11.1V Li-Po batteries (possibility to operate on 7.4V).
-Electronic Trigger Unit, CPU motor control, gear cycle and fire selector position detection by Hall Effect sensor. 2 mosfets for power, 1 mosfet for active braking.
-Neodymium high-torque motor 19000RPM (11.1V), short axis.
-Silver-plated wiring, Teflon coated.

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That's exciting, a ground up AEG would be pretty cool, especially from a company like Silverback who seem to take a long time making a good gun.
This may be like a modern PTW in some ways, which would be pretty cool.

As for GBBs, I have little experience besides an SSP1 I killed and some guns I have borrowed at games so I'm not really an expert, but they don't seem super awesome to me. Having eclipsed the cost on my SSX23 in magazines for it I see little excitement when thinking about needing to buy a whole loadout of $40-90 magazines that weigh an absolute ton, especially when you consider how delicate they are(having broken 2 MK23 mags beyond repair). GBB is definitely cool, but I think it's safe to say than anybody with a GBBR and a lick of sense also owns and brings a well functioning AEG or other primary in the medium likelihood that something goes wrong with the GBB.
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Yeah, I think $500 at a minimum, with $700 being more likely.
Still, that's far from uncommon in the upgraded AEG market, and you never get the build quality that we have come to expect from Silverback.
Maybe they didn't give super precise measurements, or you may want to buy a wood rasp and get removing some plastic. Li-ions are probably the best battery for normal airsoft since they tend to be more forgiving with overdraining, along with being safer, so I'd definitely try to make a Titan fit.

I wonder how this would work on a 14.8, it'd be sick to have a super snappy 2.5J gun.
Wanker guns are the best, he just has no esprit lol
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My main gun right now is pretty major, as the trigger is very short and has no take-up or over travel, and in the FCU my nozzle and poppet dwell settings are set to be as fast as possible. I feel completely adequate with semi only, as I'm able to get sort of a burst going at like 45 RPS, but I'm able to pull off single shots with ease.

This would definitely be considered speedsoft, except that it's very long and unassuming.
Don't pay mind to the pose, the camera guy told me to do a "heroic" pose, I don't actually look like this when I play.
Military camouflage Cargo pants Camouflage Marines Ballistic vest

1Tonne, if anybody is to get a free or discounted gun from Silverback, it would be you. I think that it would be worth emailing them and explaining the stuff you would like to try with it and the long write up to follow. I'd also email ICS to get ahold of their sniper too, for the same reasons.
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Yeah, idk how likely you'd be to get the stuff, but it's worth a try. I'd say that it's a forum where people go to get actual information, not just a bunch of knob jockeys on Reddit or FB, and you may save them time in troubleshooting.

I got a free barrel and buckings from DaVinci for the price of shipping, and if I liked it I was asked to mention it now and again where it was relevant to do so. I've gotten free shit from some guys on Amazon as well, a handful of red dots and flashlights, and I review them, but don't exaggerate and I tell their exact purpose and use, not telling people they should put a $40 dot on a real gun they will trust their life to.

I've also had literal dozens of people wanting to bum a tank, barrel, R-hop, lapping service, or other part I make off me, and it's annoying as hell. They will usually say for "testing", which is retarded as I wouldn't be selling the thing if I hadn't figured everything out already.

Anyways, worth a crack, you never know.
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You were involved with AA a good ways back right?
Man, that brings back some memories looking at that thread, back when I was making some bullpup VSR with a homemade HPA engine and basing everything off of now classic Novritsch videos.

For which chamber is better, I am a fan of pivoting arms as they are easy to make stable, while vertical nubs tend to be looser. This was the case with my Airsoft Philosopher chamber, the nub was just too wobbly and would not keep still. Eventually I "invented" the SS-nub and made one for it, which made it lot better. I still preferred the AA, but it showed that a vertical nub could be rather good.
I haven't tried the TTI as I don't have a VSR anymore and feel no need to get another, but I'll trust your judgement that it's a solid choice. Still, I think that the AA with my SS-nub or a Masada arm is easily one of the best chambers out there, and will be for some time to come.
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Upon hearing the gun I am much less interested as it doesn't sound as cool as an HPA gun to me.

I do wonder what it would be like with a decent suppressor though, as the gun may be quieter than normal with your body muffling it's sound as well.
This guy makes decent trustworthy vids, and did an in depth review.

Shooting, chrono, and range/accuracy start at 24:00, and after that there is a decent disassembly.
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Idk if I'd do that myself, as there's already not a ton of handguard to hold onto as it is. A fat and long suppressor would look dope on this thing, like one of the bigger ones Silverback sells....
Yeah, a lot of people in the firearms world don't care and they wonder why their groups suck, but usually the top tier reloaders aim for FPS consistency and their stuff works well. For pellet gunners, they're pretty serious about that and will do a shot string over a chrono over the whole pressure range of the cylinder to find the best area for FPS consistency.

I had a duplicate 6 times once on my VSR, and had a string of 3 recently on my new MK23, but I've yet to perfect my stuff to where I get duplicates and triplicates all the time. Eventually, but I need to figure all my stuff out and why things happen first, as I've been wandering blindly for the last 4-5 years with varying success.
I legit probably can outrange most people on the field, but that's when I go above .32g and arc my shots. Barely anybody uses anything above .28g, I asked like half the people one time. Not that I need to outrange everybody, but it's fun to make people think that they're getting team killed since they're not used to people they can't see.
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Well there's J or joules, and there's J/CM3, which is basically how densely the energy is dumped, or sort of how much the impact will hurt. Heavier BBs at the same joules will have a higher J/CM3, and therefore hurt more, plus their improved ballistic coefficient which lets them not lose as much energy due to wind resistance, which also makes them hurt more.

Joule creep is pretty much just your gun being more optimized for a heavier BB than a lighter one, so for example you'll shoot a .20g at 2J and a .48g will then shoot 3J. It doesn't really matter in the technical side of things, as that means you should be using that more optimal BB, or you should change that so a lighter BB is more optimal, depending on the situation. Joule creep only really matters when a field chronos in FPS or with a light BB like .30g, and then when people switch to the BBs they play with, and gain a good bit of power which will then hurt a lot more. This is especially important with HPA guns, gas guns, and some spring snipers, as you are much more likely to see significant joule creep in them.
Not that big of a deal, but you should know what you are dealing with as to not hurt somebody or get banned from the field.
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Yeah, might be good, but unless it's actually been an issue, I'd probably not do that.

My field chronos all HPA guns with .40g BBs, which sucks if you're using anything lighter than that as you will have a lower power than everybody else. Not sure if there was any big event that caused it, but your field may implement something like that that sucks a lot. Even if a field chronos in .40g, you can just crank your hop to a different setting, put a rubber or cloth power reducer in your suppressor, or any number of things, so it's really only a pain to the people who don't cheat chrono.
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Oh damn, yeah, I might tell the guy, and maybe the field afterwards.

Pretty hardcore, he might be rocking like 2.5J
It really all depends, but I bet you could gain at least .5J on a .30g by the sounds of his setup
A standard TM spec barrel SHOULD be 8.55mm, which it seems only PDI, Lambda, DaVinci, and Laylax do.
It's rather common to see an 8.42mm barrel, which is a pretty big difference when it comes to buckings and hop chamber fitment.

I'm curious to hear the actual size on these things.
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