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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm sincerely sorry if this question has been asked before numerous times, but I've looked for a while in numerous forums and I can't find a concrete answer on how to EXACTLY open up the cylinder on the Socom Gear R700. I know that you must drill that pin out, but I need to know how exactly to drill it out, and where/when to stop. The "Real Shock System" has to go, so I shot the techies an email and all they said was that a 3/8" drill bit would be suffice to take to my internals and go at it. I (being the paranoid and skeptical person I am) checked out the drill and the cylinder and the gun after I opened it up, and I found out that the 3/8" drill bit suggested to me was about 3 or 4 times the diameter of the pin itself. I need to know (in a nutshell) the size of the drill bit I should use, how to tell when I should stop drilling, what the consequences are if I fail extremely, and (hopefully it won't come to this) what I can buy to replace a broken.... whatever could've been broken by doing this...

Also, I take it any old R700 scope mount (walmart quality perhaps?) will be suffice and fit on this gun?

Lastly (noob question): Would the stock internals hold up to a 130SP spring to raise the unweighted fps to around 430-440? Any tips about upgrading if not?

Oh and by the way, I'm new to the forums. I hope my grammar was suffice and I hope I didn't break any rules.

Thanks

-Ghone
 

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Can't answer anything except the spring question. My suggestion, do not upgrade the spring right away. The last thing you want is for all the internals to crap out on you because you put in a stronger spring. This leaves you with having to buy expensive upgrades all at once to get your rifle back on track.

First, I would recommend reading this: http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/phpBB/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=1156
It is about the l96 clone rifles but it has some useful information on what order to upgrade your rifle. The last bit is where you will find the useful information for yourself. Notice the spring is at the bottom of the list. Even though it might hold for a few shots, there is no for sure on when the stock rifle's sears, or other parts will crap out on you.

To be nice, I copied what you need from the link to here:

First Upgrade Purchases
1. PDI hop up chamber: allows use of aeg barrels and buckings
2. AEG tightbore barrel (6.03mm to 6.05mm recommended.) Stock barrel length is 499mm, but a 509mm barrel will suffice if the end cap is removed. A flash hider will provide cover for the small bit of barrel that is extended.
3. Soft bucking and nubbing (possibly polar stars concave spacer--is a nubbing)
4. Heavy weight bbs (madbulls are nice)
5. PDI repair kit: Cheap kit, with spare pieces for PDI hop up unit.

Second Upgrade Purchases
1. Cylinder head, spring guide, cylinder, and piston and accuracy cup. I prefer laylax parts but PDI parts are also very high quality.
-Note: the cylinder being the most expensive is not necessary with the purchase of the spring guide, piston, and cylinder head. The stock cylinder will suffice just fine for now.
2. Trigger sear and piston sear. Although, the stock sears held up extremely fine, and show no signs of wear after three years of use.

Third Upgrade Purchases
1. Zero trigger
2. If not bought yet, a teflon cylinder
3. Heavier spring (note how other internal parts were upgraded before the spring was. This is very important

Fourth upgrade purchases
1. Flash hider adapter
2. Flash hider
3. New bolt handle
Note how these are not necessary upgrade parts. Some offer good durability upgrades, whiles others are for looks


The link has some information pertaining to upgrading your rifle. With it being a clone of the vsr-10, it should be compatible with all of the parts, which are readily available. Just make sure to get vsr-10 parts and not the ones meant for the l96. Check out airsoftatlanta's bolt action upgrade section. They have a very wide selection and it will give you the general idea on what you can put into the rifle.

Overall, any questions about upgrading pm me or put it in here. I'll check it to see whats up ;)

Also, make an intro post. Besides that, you did not break any rules and your grammar is really good ;)

Fuzzy

P.S. Despite being a clone of the vsr-10 rifle, this should be in the "others" section. Others is where most of the clones such as this, the mk96, etc. go. Just a heads up for future reference. Its no big deal really :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sounds like I'll just remove the weights after getting a response from the other three forums I posted this at, and keep the spring for a later occasion. After all, I'm really looking forward to upgrading my rifle over the next, say.... 2-3 years? As long as my fps isn't below 300 and my stock hop up stays solid for about 6-8 months (which is when I'm looking to start slowly upgrading this thing), then I guess I'll be good to stick with the stock spring, and unweighted piston.

And yeah, I might post an introduction thread if I have the time after work someday....

If I'm not lazy.
 

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Yeah, since it will take some time to upgrade your rifle, do not force a powerful spring in there. I have been upgrading my rifle for awhile now, and a upgraded spring is still not on my list for upcoming purchases. Even when you start upgrading, I would focus on a tightbore barrel and new hop up chamber because sooner or later your bucking will wear down, leaving you with a useless rifle. After thats upgraded, then you could purchase some sears, pistons, etc.

Good luck in the future

Fuzzy
 

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I use barrel spacers regardless of my fps. Three evenly placed throughout the barrel should get the job done. I just use electric tape wrapped around the barrel to desired length. Then when I slide it into the outer barrel, it should fit snug but not too tight that you need the hammer. ;)
 
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