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SSG-10
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm on the fence about the idea of swapping the SSG-10 barrel to a short one; lots of advantages to doing so, but some stuff giving me pause.

I'd have expected cylinder volume to be an issue, but I haven't seen anybody mention having changed or modified their cylinder when swapping from the stock to short barrel (from the standard Novritsch offerings). Is the difference small enough that the stock cylinder doesn't cause any problems?

Is there any likely issue with sawing the existing inner barrel down to size (having bought a short outer barrel), hitting the end with a countersink drill bit, and smoothing out the result? Or is it worth buying a barrel that's the appropriate length to begin with?

Thanks folks!
 

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You can cut the barrel and then recrown it. It is easy and you will be able to do it. Just try to do a good job of it.

You can use the standard cylinder just as it is with a shorter barrel. It may mean that you do not have the perfect cylinder to barrel ratio which will mean you are not getting the best efficiency but it will still work.
You could always put a port in the cylinder to give you a better cylinder to barrel ratio but then you will never be able to use a longer inner barrel. So I would just use the stock cylinder as it is.
 

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I highly recommend that you just buy the short outer barrel and suppressor adapter and use your current inner barrel but cover it with a suppressor, helping with sound but also being compact.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I highly recommend that you just buy the short outer barrel and suppressor adapter and use your current inner barrel but cover it with a suppressor, helping with sound but also being compact.
That's interesting, that'd be roughly the same length it is currently so doesn't seem to add much in terms of compactness. My thinking was that with the short barrel I have the option of running it compact, or popping the silencer on and bringing it back to about its current length but with the sound damping effect. Would you mind talking me through your reasoning on the recommendation there please? I'm very new to springers!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Okay, so if I do decide to cut the barrel down to 303mm from 430mm, and add the recommended blob of aquarium silicone to the cylinder head, I'm going to lose a significant amount of power. I'm in a fairly happy place currently on a M150 spring. What spring would people recommend for the best shot at a happy place when those volume-changing mods are done? (I know this can only be a rough guess because 'blob' is not a universally agreed-upon measurement, but I'm okay with snipping a spring or adding in adjuster rings)

One piece of advice I think I read on here somewhere was about aiming for a strong spring rather than a long one, such that it's only slightly compressed when the piston is home.
 

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You can't use a 3 joule in the UK. That would be shooting way way too hot.
UK joule limit is 2.3 joules.
I suggest you return it and get the Rapax 2 joule. That or cut the 3 joule down.
He's running a 303mm barrel.
 

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500fps/2.3 joules is the max permitted- won't the 3 joule go over that?
It'll probably got to like 2.5, but a 2j will be well below. I think the best option would be to buy a regular RAPAX 3J and cut it till it hits the right power level.
 

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It'll probably got to like 2.5, but a 2j will be well below. I think the best option would be to buy a regular RAPAX 3J and cut it till it hits the right power level.
Does the Hulk have a lower or higher output than the 3j, because that might be another good option...
 

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Does the Hulk have a lower or higher output than the 3j, because that might be another good option...
The hulk is 4j. I have a rapax 3j that I cut down to be a nice short 2j.
 
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