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Stock ARES MSR 338 -> "Perfection"

1985 Views 12 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  Ghost
Figured I'd make a post of this since I still can't believe the results, being 320' range or so with a .48 at 2.42 J.

Bought the gun new and didn't even test-fire it stock before gutting it.

I had bought the PDI Palosonite HD cylinder set before buying the gun due to stock numbers on the cylinder, last one from Red wolf, plus a Springer trigger to match. Had a massive air leak, pulled the orange plastic flash hider off to put my finger over the barrel and test.

Anyway recently ordered a PDI 6.01 460mm MSR-specific barrel for my gun and put it all together hoping matching the barrel brand to the cylinder brand would fix the air leak. I did use teflon tape at the front part of the bucking where it drops off onto the barrel just to be safe (stock hop unit is quite complimentary with sammiching it in if you get it cleanly wrapped, leading to stellar seal). Not sure where the leak was but did not want to deal with that further. Tested everything as I reassembled it, and after doing the finger test (finger on the end of the barrel, shoot, wait and see if compression holds) wrapped her up into a bow.

Today was my first day properly using it, gutted it before firing it stock and was shooting maybe 180' after the cylinder and trigger install with a PDI W Hold.

Literally like 320' range with .48 even though (optimally with barrel vs cylinder volume) I should be running .4 or .43 (IE I still have some range to gain imo), effective on body-sized targets at 300' since I consistently shot through a door of a turret at 305' right through the middle where I aimed even though the opening is probably 2x human size. Strong winds today too, generally against me in that shot but I did my best to time shots during low gust periods.

I was honestly questioning it at the moment, not believing my eyes at that range since it can be hard to see (deff need to invest in a real scope now), but seemed like they were sailing right through the door which my fellow team member that was on the opposite team for the day later confirmed: Landed right where I put it with a load slap at the back wall.


300' seems to be the gold standard that everyone shoots for, I did it with my first BA build on the second build attempt with a gun many deemed unworthy to begin with so I could not be happier!

Love it, was my aesthetically favorite gun but now my favorite in all categories. I think it's going to make a BA-boi out of me.

Parts list below:

PDI HD cylinder set (Palsonite Cylinder SET HD / For ARES AW338,MS338 – AIR SOFT GUN CUSTOM PARTS SHOP)
PDI spring but forgot which, was aiming for 500 FPS and only slightly over at 2.4J
Springer V3 trigger (Springer Custom Works - Airsoft sniper parts I S-trigger MSR338/MS700)
stock hop unit
custom one piece concave nub (Ares MSR(338/700) Hop Up Arm STL [Release] , orbits .4s so I plan to edit it a bit hopefully even though I am 3D design noob....)
PDI 6.01 460mm barrel (6.01 INNER BARREL(VSR) – AIR SOFT GUN CUSTOM PARTS SHOP)
Elvishtac R hop patch (R-Hop + Modify Baton Flat-Hop Bucking Hard Type + S-Nub Airsoft RHop Hopup Nub | eBay)
Modify flat VSR bucking (Modify Sora R-Hop Bucking for VSR-10 Airsoft Rifles & ...https://www.evike.com › products)
Teflon tape around where the front of the bucking and barrel meet, sandwiched in the stock hop unit which is great for that
Made sure piston stayed back when I shot and had my finger over the barrel end, main issue with the V1 build it wouldn't seal for shit


Pics for fun, including that range test recreated on google earth for my own sanity.

Air gun Trigger Shotgun Machine gun Gun barrel


Water resources Ecoregion Natural environment Map Urban design
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That hop up arm that I released is intended for use with standard buckings. It will probably cause pre-engagement with an Rhop. Should be very easy to edit with basic CAD, or you can just manually file it down to the shape you need.
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That hop up arm that I released is intended for use with standard buckings. It will probably cause pre-engagement with an Rhop. Should be very easy to edit with basic CAD, or you can just manually file it down to the shape you need.
Pre-engagement? My only issue is it orbits .4s haha, but I'm sure I'll eventually edit the file a bit.

Thanks again for making/releasing that!
Pre-engagement? My only issue is it orbits .4s haha, but I'm sure I'll eventually edit the file a bit.

Thanks again for making/releasing that!
pre-engagement as in the nub will be applying pressure into the bucking/rhop even if you dial the hop all the way off. It's probably why it's sending 0.4's into the sky. Glad the file is useful to you
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pre-engagement as in the nub will be applying pressure into the bucking/rhop even if you dial the hop all the way off. It's probably why it's sending 0.4's into the sky. Glad the file is useful to you
Oh gotcha, never heard that term before but yeah definitely have some of that!

Wanted to ask, did you angle the concave part a bit to account for the pivot of the hop arm? Damn shame someone didn't make an aftermarket hop unit with true TDC with no pivot point, although I'm not going to complain with how well it performs as is
Oh gotcha, never heard that term before but yeah definitely have some of that!

Wanted to ask, did you angle the concave part a bit to account for the pivot of the hop arm? Damn shame someone didn't make an aftermarket hop unit with true TDC with no pivot point, although I'm not going to complain with how well it performs as is
I am under the impression that I didn't end up doing it for this one. I get the feeling that I tried it out but didn't see a measurable difference so it was not pursued.
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I generally believe(also mentioned by Masada) that arms with a pivot are better than a vertical nub.
They are easier to make for sure, but are also more modular, and are easier to stabilize.
With an Airsoft Philosopher or TAC41 style nub, it can rock side to side and forwards and backwards, while an arm that is on a well fitting securely attached pivot pin will not move forward or backward. There will be side to side movement, but this can be fixed with an aftermarket arm(not a great idea unless you have an AA chamber) or with some good old shimming, be it tape, Teflon tape, or any type of filler material. This will solve side to side movement, depending on your parts or skills, and will make a rock solid setup, leaving just up and down movement that should be reasonably easy for a company to get right.

Still, for my homemade chambers I like a vertical nub because of the way I make my nubs, but this is out of laziness and I will be making an arm chamber for one of my guns to get a direct comparison between the two styles.
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I generally believe(also mentioned by Masada) that arms with a pivot are better than a vertical nub.
They are easier to make for sure, but are also more modular, and are easier to stabilize.
With an Airsoft Philosopher or TAC41 style nub, it can rock side to side and forwards and backwards, while an arm that is on a well fitting securely attached pivot pin will not move forward or backward. There will be side to side movement, but this can be fixed with an aftermarket arm(not a great idea unless you have an AA chamber) or with some good old shimming, be it tape, Teflon tape, or any type of filler material. This will solve side to side movement, depending on your parts or skills, and will make a rock solid setup, leaving just up and down movement that should be reasonably easy for a company to get right.

Still, for my homemade chambers I like a vertical nub because of the way I make my nubs, but this is out of laziness and I will be making an arm chamber for one of my guns to get a direct comparison between the two styles.
Guess I shouldn't try to fix what isn't broken!
That hop up arm that I released is intended for use with standard buckings. It will probably cause pre-engagement with an Rhop. Should be very easy to edit with basic CAD, or you can just manually file it down to the shape you need.
I used the same hop arm when I rebuilt an MSR338 that came to me non-functional. Paired it with an R-Hopped barrel, and the results have been really good. I was using .36 and getting them out to 70m+ with a 1.5J setup. Now that I know about the possible pre-engagement, I might try it without the hop screw in.
I used the same hop arm when I rebuilt an MSR338 that came to me non-functional. Paired it with an R-Hopped barrel, and the results have been really good. I was using .36 and getting them out to 70m+ with a 1.5J setup. Now that I know about the possible pre-engagement, I might try it without the hop screw in.
Interesting, the extra power mine has must be making the hop more effective since it orbits .4s. That or the PDI R hop has better contact potential.

Does it with no hop applied whatsoever. I'll post the edited hop arm here once I get around to it.
Theoretically pivot based hop arms also create a downwards ramp effect on curved (r-hop style) hop rubbers helping centre the BB for more consistent and centralised spin application. Where's straight vertical nubs have some but less. Anything mass produced would likely benefit from the arm design due to tolerances during manufacturing and user instillation.
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Huh, I joined one month before you, now I'm wondering if I didn't make my name ghost 😮‍💨, but on topic, that's gotta be one of the coolest-looking snipers I've seen!
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Huh, I joined one month before you, now I'm wondering if I didn't make my name ghost 😮‍💨, but on topic, that's gotta be one of the coolest-looking snipers I've seen!
LOL! that is funny, surprised the name wasn’t taken tbh. And thanks! I love it tbh
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