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Not to discount what Fynn and 1tonne have said, but I have this feeling you have never opened a gearbox before, and that a lot of this information is going over your head.

Raiders do not typically ship with 330 fps... which raises a question. What country are you in? May not sound important, but it is. If you are in a country that limits airsoft to 1 joule, then its a moot point to be looking at power upgrades. As it would be illegal to do so.

I do have more things to say, I just do not have the time to type it as I am about to leave for work.
 
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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
@Plazmaburn, buy in Taiwan. Was told that it’s about 100mps. Using in Thailand - no official legal issue about joules. Maybe the fields might have regulations. But my interest is only in the range.
 

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Targetonly, if you're going to make a rifle really accurate, it all needs to come apart anyways and great accuracy doesn't need power. As for trigger pull, as a shooter, it's something you compensate for or you might as lock into a bench sled and shoot from that.

If my kid can hit a gopher in the head with a bolt action 22LR from almost a hundred yards away, what makes him accurate is only a few things. He's a steady trigger man. The rifle is consistent and in good working order, and the ammo is spot on.

Airsoft is no different. You can have the best rifle in the world but you have to be able to understand it and control it, and that includes predicting the trigger pull and how the system will react once you do. That's why we practice, and practice, and practice.

Now, to make a rifle really, really accurate, I cannot reiterate how much power is NOT a deciding factor! Especially at short range. It is consistency. Nothing else. Study your parts. Study how they work together. For example, I use a simple homemade mosfet in my rifle but here's why...it doesn't arc like traditional contacts. It's a very predictable solid state switch.

By my rifle not having too much power, the motor doesn't work too hard to pull the spring so the amperage draw on the battery becomes even, no spikes. Even in full auto, it's consistent. By building the platform then running it at approx. 70 percent of it's maximum capability you never over tax it and it stays cool, and steady. No weird vibrations or shock when it shoots. Zero recoil. Remember, when precision shooting, recoil is BAD.

Any stock gearbox will be garbage for accuracy. ANY of them. They must be disassembled and everything has to be refit together if you're going to get fanatical about accuracy. I align my bearings and gears with a laser. Every gear tooth is checked for finish and fit so that no matter where the gears turn, the mesh is even and the draw is consistent. The shimming of the gears has to have no slop, and no drag.

I could go on for hours, but truth be told, to build the rifle I think you're looking for, it will take hours, days even. There's no instant pill for this. Even then, you'll be at the mercy of the BB when the rifle is done, but it will definitely be the BB's fault and not the rifle's.

Even things like how much grease and how the spring moves inside the gearbox (ball bearing spring guides, etc) will make a difference. All of it.

But, power is not as important as you think, nor is dumping a bunch of money on parts. The most important thing is how they work together as a system...that's the magic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
@Zero Roaster, totally agree. Radio controlled car had been my hobby for decades. Therefore, I understand you advice. Example, I know about - gears & shimming, perfect assembly, the need to take it apart to replace needed parts and re-assembling. I also understand Lipo, re-charging and electrical wiring. All these will help me in Airsoft.

However, I still have a lot to learn about the Physics involved in Airsoft. And I am eager and interested to learn about it.

I also know that high power and high velocity doesn’t automatically means accuracy. On the other hand, extreme over power is truly bad for accuracy. Likewise, under power too. Therefore, there is a sweet spot for every weight of 6mm BB.

Thank for sharing.
 

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Honestly if you are only shooting 30m, you do not need a lot of power. Good hop, and getting the rifle consistent will do more.

At 330fps/100mps you will likely want to use .25g-.28g bbs, bumping up to 400/120 would let you use .32-.36 better.

While pre-cocking is nice, not really needed. Its more of a feel thing then actual benefit. (Talking only about the pre-cocking feature, not the MOSFET as a whole.)

Shimming, alignment, and locking down will do you wonders.
 

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If I had to pick, I would probably go for a Specna Arms Edge Titan Custom. This is because it has a Titan Mosfet with precock and also you can vary the fps and reload times through the mosfet. Basically, this means you can run a 500 fps aeg with a 5 second cocking time (somewhat like a basr).
Also, the gearbox is super solid for heavy springs and it comes with a 6.03mm inner barrel preinstalled so you just have to swap the bucking to a maple leaf macaron or a tru-hop bucking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
@Black - I think I will not buy custom build one. I prefer to do the modifications myself, I think that is half the fun. Furthermore, it does not mean a custom standard rifle won't need maintenance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Currently, my top choice is VFC Avalon Samurai Edge. G&G and KWA are my 2nd choice. Any comments?

I also wish all of our feedbacks on a few items,
1) Inner barrel length - is 380mm enough? Is 430mm better?
2) Hop up chamber - stock ones are plastic, is there a need to upgrade to a metal one? If yes, why (does this camber affect air sealing?) I was thinking that a BB feeding thru the plastic chamber might be better.
3) Brushless motor vs brushed motor
4) Lipo - 20C only? Can go higher?
 

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VFC is generally pretty solid. Same With G&G. KWA you can ignore. Not that KWA is bad, just has some annoying things that makes upgrading a pain in the ass.

1. Depends on what bb you use.

2. Aftermarket hop units offer different things, most being rotary style, most are metal as a fair share of stock chambers are made of weak plastics. They also offer better tolerances.

3. Just use a normal motor, brushless tech in airsoft has not advanced enough to be practical.

4. I run a minimum of 50c lipos. Most of mine are around the 90c mark or more.
 

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ICS is also another good one. That split gearbox of theirs is awesome.
 

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Vfc makes great externals, but their internals are not that good. G&G makes both good internals, and externals. Kwa had some compatibility issues.
Don´t know if that is still the case. I would go for the G&G.

1) As Pb said, it depends on the weight of the bb you are using.

2) Not really necessary to upgrade the hop up chamber.

3) Go for a brushed motor. You also can´t easily use a brushless motor with a gate titan.

4)I´d get the biggest lipo you can fit in your gun. Don´t use it in a gun with a fuse that is like 20A though.
 

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Even though the G&G hopup chamber is plastic it still seems to be a really good chamber. Also their green bucking seems to have a big cult following because it seems to be good.
 

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Even though the G&G hopup chamber is plastic it still seems to be a really good chamber. Also their green bucking seems to have a big cult following because it seems to be good.
You bet, 1tonne. One of the best out of the box set ups there is.:tup: Even if you don;t necessarily like the green bucking in it's entirety, when you grind the bump off it makes probably the best r hop bucking there is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Thanks guys.

1) Barrel Length - Likely stock PFS is about 350 to 400. For sure, I can get 0.28 here, plus tracers are up to 0.28 only (thought of shooting tracer). Of course, I want the heaviest this 350-400PFS can shoot - from my guess, I think it should shoot 0.36 without issues- please comment and correct me if needed.
Please advise barrel length based on 0.28 and 0.36. 《BTW, I am quite sure that I will select the latest VFC Avalon that comes with a 380mm Maple Leaf barrel(steel). If all of you advise me to go longer, then I will get G&G G2series which has 430-460mm barrel.》

2) Hop Up Chamber - honestly, I was thinking that cast metal or cnc alum might not be the best materials to use. I think certain polymor are better, like Nylon, Telfon, Graphite Reinfore (GRP), Fiber Reinforce (FRP - I think this is what the new VFC uses). Maybe the shiny surfaced type of ABS plastic might not be most suitable.
I will not upgrade that unless needed.

3) Oh dear, I remember my days of maintaining brushed motors. Guess I will have to bear with it until I am sure that brushless will fit the electronics in my rifle.

4) Glad to know that high C can be used. I read in an old G&G instruction manual suggesting only 20C.

Thanks guys
 

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1) ........Of course, I want the heaviest this 350-400PFS can shoot - from my guess, I think it should shoot 0.36 without issues
350-400fps, go with 0.28-0.3gm. If the barrel was really short then you may be able to use 0.36gm but not with your setup.
 

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Thanks guys.

1) Barrel Length - Likely stock PFS is about 350 to 400. For sure, I can get 0.28 here, plus tracers are up to 0.28 only (thought of shooting tracer). Of course, I want the heaviest this 350-400PFS can shoot - from my guess, I think it should shoot 0.36 without issues

Thanks guys
Lol I tried the same thing with my M14 shooting somewhere in the ballpark of 350 - 400 fps. The thing was like floating rocks 🙂
 

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I've had two G&G M14's so far. The typical unit with the wood stock and the EBR-L which were both essentially the same rifle with a different stock. The sweet spot for an M14 like these is 400-415fps using .3's. I shot thousands and thousands of rounds with that set up and it was an extremely accurate rifle.

Now, the M14 is a version 7 box and the hop up is a little strange. One thing to keep in mind is that because of G&G's goofy trigger system you have to compensate for that as the shooter but aside from that, even with the stock barrel length of 509mm, it was an amazing platform.

Because of it's substantial weight, firing an M14 off of a bipod is the way to go and it will be rock steady. No weird vibrations, kick, or anything. If you go with an EBR-L, the scope mounts solidly and can be extremely precise. The best scope combo by far for this rifle was the 3-9x40. Even on full auto, the rifle was ridiculously accurate.

Now, bear in mind that in both cases they were heavily modified from stock. R hops, mosfets, the whole bit. The wood stock M14 fired at 410, the EBR-L at 415.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Perfect timing, I just started looking into scope. And OMG, the price difference between the cheapest and the highest is so big! I will need your comments, please.
 

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Just go cheap. This is airsoft and so you do not need anything flash. Some people say you do but I have never had an issue with the cheap ones. More costly can mean a clearer view but we are not shooting extra far and the cheap ones are still reasonably clear anyway.
 
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