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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Who has a SVD? Electric/AEG/Spring. I got mine where is yours?

greased and shimmed my barrel, did wounder for consistency. also mighty mendit works well as temp airy thread lock. found that if you want to "lock DOWN" your gun then take it apart again. good for fine tuning.

my piston is ported. the o ring around it is stock but doesn't fit very well. i understand how the concept works. i found a #6 o ring works as a shim for the stock 0 ring.

who has used Teflon tape around the air nozzle?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
woogie said:
And what is the point of this thread?

I suggest that you go to the top and read some of the rules before posting.
PURPOSE OF AIRSOFT SNIPER FORUM

Provide players with valuable information, let players interact, and share ideas. This forum is for intelligent snipers who are willing to help with the advancement of airsoft sniping.

now let me ask you whats the point of your post on my thread. reading your reply and actually reading the "rules" shows me that your just being an ass. and you yourself didnt take the time to look at them. why am i even replying to you. if your not going to involve your self in my thread the pleas stop posting here. your bad attitude sucks and isn't wanted here.
 

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There's very few guides on SVD's on here simply because it's a rifle with relatively few aftermarket parts. If you want to detail exactly what you upgraded and how you did it to help out people on here, feel free.

But as it is, your post has poor grammar, poor spelling, and is basically incomprehensible. Written like this, it seems like a "look what I did!" post, rather than something helpful. You make a statement that doesn't seem to have a purpose, and you don't seem to have any questions.

I hate to have to spell it out on an adult forum, but that's what woogie was saying. Congratulations, you can copy and paste; woogie still has a valid point. He was trying to help you out
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
i can already see this isn't the forum for me. personally i don't care about my grammar, or poor spelling. whats funny is this is supposed to be a air soft forum but all some people can do is be rude and focus on everything but air soft. yes a mod could have said something but they haven't so let the mod do their jobs and leave it to the mod.

i do not see how his comment was in the least bit helpful.

this isn't "look what i did" thread its TIPS as stated in the title of my thread. i left it short for a reason. if anyone else has any questions about what i have said then ask. but to just come out and be rude or even stray off topic for their own agenda, its just wrong. again in the title it states TIPS. it doesnt matter if you have an svd or not. a lot of the parts still work the same way. what you can take from this are helpful tips for your guns. if you don't have something to add to this threads topic then stop posting here.
 

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Thanks zulu... glad to see someone else is watching out for the other members


Well if you would go and look at the RULES you will see that we try to keep things as proper and correct as we can around here. The grammar is there to help people from other countries understand what is going on.

And it seems like you will get a visit from the mod fairy fairly soon ... Hope you had fun
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
again i am glad to see we can stay on topic.

so if there is anyone out there that is interested in what i have done with my gun. and would like to learn how to shim and grease your barrel. (i highly recommend one does) or do anything i have mentioned...... please ask, i have no problems answering any questions. this is an open topic, but if its about my grammar or lack of questions, i will not reply.
 

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OK buddy... you want to flex you gooey grey matter... let's hear it.

What's your weapon System?
Make/Model?
Spring or AEG?
What up-grades have you done?

What is this Process you call Grease & Shimming that everyone needs to do?

and so you understand you are speaking to someone who has over 25 years of collective experience between Paintball and Airsoft.. I am the first one to admit I don't know everything, but that is why I read these boards to share my experience and see what creative ideas these youngsters come up with to better their weapon systems.

So have at it.. enlighten me

-------------------------------------------------------

And for everyone thinking "OH Shit don't encourage him"
PM me and I will explain my reasoning.
 

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No problem i have with it mojo...
Would like to see what he has to say actually.

Just really pisses a few of us off to see people do this. And not only on this board. I hate it when arrogant bastards come on here and troll. Now this is not pointed toward anyone here past, present, or feature.

But again ... if you don't like the rules, then go somewhere else. And it still appears that you still have yet to read the rules of this forum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Intro. Greasing and Shimming your barrel.
The following is a step by step, DIY project for a A&K SVD spring sniper or like riffle(s). The purpose of this, is to reduce vibration and general "play" found in my A&K SVD's barrel assembly, and in the end tune your barrel to shoot straighter and hit constantly in a general aria forming a group. With that being said, I take no responsibly in what you do with your own weapon, or do I guarantee like results . These are simply tips. I hopes that it will help others. Before I start, I will apologizes for my lack of knowledge with some of the terminology associated with air soft parts. As a side note for this tutorial, I will be starting with my mag and forward hand guards already removed. Credit is due to a friend who told me I should put grease in my barrel. As to how it was done and the use of tape and glue. That was all up to me. Thank you for reading. I am curious to hear what other people may have to say about this.

MATERIALS: For this you will need.
1) Scissors
2) Electrical tape
3) Glue (With mine I used Mighty Gemit. not shown in picture) I needed something "tacky" that didn't dry hard.
4) High viscosity lithium grease. or Hi-Temp grease
5) Q tips
6) Hex wrench set



STEP 1:
Begin by unscrewing this set screw. There is another one on the opposite side. Do not remove the screw all the way. For two reasons. A) It can become lost. B) Most importantly, you don't want any grease to get into the threads. This will be done throughout this whole proses.


Image of barrel assembly and hop up chamber.


STEP 2:
Using a hex wrench, unscrew the second pair of set screws removing the outer barrel.

Exposing the barrel.


STEP 3:
Using a smaller hex wrench, unscrew this set screw. The housing to the left keeps the barrel attached to the hop up chamber on the right. As a side note, the small hex screw pictured to the lower right hand corner is your hop up adjustment.


Image of the hop up chamber on the right hand side.


STEP 4:
At this point you can remove you barrel from the hop up chamber. Remove the O-ring, bucking and small "alignment clip". INSPECT for any damaged or missing parts. You will then need to reassemble the bucking onto the barrel along with the "alignment clip" and O-ring back into the hop up chamber. (As shown in the close up of the hop up adjustment screw) If someone could tell me what type of hop up this is? I would be grateful.

Close up of the hop up adjustment screw.


STEP 5:
At this point you are done with disassembling and inspection of your barrel assembly. You will now start the shimming process. With shimming, you may or may not need to do this. As i don't know how your gun shoots. For example, mine would always shoot to low. Now given my scope mount is a tad high and the riffle scope is made, well for a riffle. I was never able to get the point of impact into the cross hairs. Or if your BB always seems to fly right/left/up/down with every shot in one specific direction. I am not referring to the BB "hooking". More like you have already turned your scopes adjustment knob to its max and still not hitting in the cross hairs.
Using the scissors and electrical tape. Cut a small piece of tape. You will have to experiment with the size. You want the barrel to fit snugly into the outer barrel.

Stating that I wanted my BB to impact higher. I placed one piece of tape underneath the muzzle and a second closer to the hop up chamber, again underneath, "tilting or lifting my barrel" inside the outer barrel.



STEP 6:
Using a Q-tip and the grease. Apply ample amounts to where metal and metal meet. Here where the hop up connects with the housing.

Grease was applied all inside here.

Using the glue, dab a small amount onto the set screw (pictured in STEP 3) and tighten it back into place.

The end result should look like the first picture in STEP 3.

STEP 7:
Begin by coating your barrel, try to keep the tape dry as it might shift when reinserting the barrel into the outer barrel. I used a lot here because when fully seated all excess grease is easily cleaned up.

Reinsert the barrel into the outer barrel and gently seat all parts into place.


You also want to glue these set screws and tighten them equally. (As seen in STEP 2)


STEP 8:
After the barrel assembly is ready and the out side coated with grease, it can now be placed back into the receiver. DO NOT apply any grease out side of the hop up chamber.


At this point I will hold my bolt back with my thumb and tighten the glued set screws equally.

I also glued and greased my flash hider.


Here you are done. I personally will let it sit for the night. That way the glue can cure properly.

TEST 1:
Distance:? (2 back yards, I have no way of measuring it) Guessing 20 to 25 yards.
Target: Printer paper at a nickel sized dot.
BB: .25
Wind: 6 to 8 mph (leaves and small sized branches blowing in the wind) from left to right direction.

Notes: Wind was strong. Shooting fundamentals felt good.

Out of 10 shots 1 hit. Shown circled in red.


TEST 2:
Distance: Same as above.
Target: Printer paper at a nickel sized dot.
BB: .25
Wind: 8 to 10 mph (leaves and med sized branches blowing in the wind) from left to right direction.

Notes: Wind did increase after gun was reassembled. The 10 shot group shown, was after I zeroed the optic to accommodate for new changes. Given the wind was not good

Out of 10 shots 5 impacted.
 

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Svd shout out!!tips

Hey I was thinking your ranging might be a little off... on the short side.
A few years back I worked with a team that was completing a health study of firemen. During our talks I came to find out that in Las Vegas the minimum lot width of a single family structure could not be less than 65ft. (It's part of the city code) That measurement would put your two backyards at 130ft or ~40yards. You may want a little better (More Accurate) knowledge for the range and accuracy of your weapon system.

So for a simple estimation tool...

  • Your arms stretched out left to right is approximately you height.
    So say you are 6ft tall your wing span if you will is about the same.
    So you can estimate the length of a piece of rope... an extension cord... ect..
    and use that for figuring out the distance of two backyards.
The reason I bring this up.. is if you are correct.. you are only talking 75ft.
and your results for that distance would be really un-impressive. I would expect 10 for 10 at that range. Secondly did you notice any bbs strike the target but get rejected because it taped to a steel grate. My suggestion is use cardboard as a backer. You may have had more hits than you think because they ricochet back instead of breaking through the paper.

Your Tutorial is well illustrated and organized well, which makes it very easy to follow... and I thank you for that.

Now here are some more ideas for you to consider...to help improve the accuracy.

1. Polish the inside of the Inner Barrel. use the following tutorial for reference...

2. Apply a layer of teflon tape around the hop-up bucking to improve air seal within the hop-up chamber.

3. Instead of shimming the barrel. Use a smaller scope ring on the front of your scope. Example use a 6mm rise on the front but an 8mm rise on the back. yes this does require you buying two sets of scope rings.
 

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Looks good scurvyblack, that's the kind of stuff we like to see.


Sorry we gave you a rough time, we just really do need proper presentation and explanation due to a variety of nationalities on the boards as well as our fair share of newbies.

Loving the guide, I see what you meant by greasing now.
 

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Great work on the guide... but why on earth would you use grease on your rifle?! I mean I can understand it for the gear box... but wouldn't that get on the hopup and leach into the rifle and destroy any kind of accuracy you may have?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Mojo thank you. I just went out and measured the distance and it came out to 114.82 feet = 38.27 yards. Closer to your estimation. Dividing the two yards is a 48in tall fence. I shot with the gun benched. From my line of sight, the target was just above the fences plane. Why I say this, is it shot flat clearing the fence and hitting the paper. One thing that i didn't mention was I used a card board box a friends 249 SAW came in, with my target taped to the top of it. I hit it a lot, but only counted "hits" on paper. The wind just really wasn't good. Keep in mind, wind speed did pick up during the second test. If it were a man sized target, I might have had all shots on target. I appreciate the link. have you ever tried something like that? The link was great but as soon as I saw the vise and brass barrel, I cringed. haha

I could see grease possibly leaching into places it shouldn't. With mine it hasn't happened yet. I think to avoid this, take care when working around the hop up, and also clean up any excessive grease.

I do apologizes for the way I cam off, regarding my first post. Its never my intention to piss off people I don't know.
 

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Sounds good. Perhaps you could try some shrinkwrap or something of the sort around the hop up unit before you insert it into the rifle. Easy to take off when you need to disassemble, and prevents any possible leakage. Of course, I'm not familiar with the internals of ANY SVDs (it's sad, I know ;) ), but I don't see any problems with something of that sort.

And no worries man, we can come off as a bit brusque to newcomers, and misunderstandings happen. (once you see some of the *cough* idiots *cough* that we get here, you'll understand why
).
 

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Hey not a problem glad I could help.

As for your questions...

Yes I have used the barrel polishing technique... it works quite well.
It is a very good alternative to Tight Bore Barrels. When I am Low on funds to upgrade my weapons I use this method.

as for the grease... Zulu has a good idea with the plastic wrap.
now here is the kicker...
the next time you take apart your weapon you have to clean the grease out of the outer barrel or when you re assemble the weapon you are going to clog the inner barrel.
...and 2nd...
you may want to conduct a test to find out at what temperature the grease starts melt.
I see that you are using high temp grease but that doesn't mean it wont melt enough to cause you grief at lower temps. grease does not have to be liquid to cause problems.. slightly gelatinous is enough for that stuff to become mobile.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Ok here is my question. Could this technique work for anyone of your riffles? The problem with mine (the biggest tiff I have with this type of gun). Is the only thing holding my barrel on are 2 small set screws. When I play, I never hold the forward hand guards as that will apply pressure on the barrel. pet peeve. That also prevents me from mounting any type of bipod. Oh well I still like this gun a lot.
 

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Ummm .... If you have the skills you could make something to fix that.

What rifle are you worried about? That would help knowing


Could be as easy as just finding some tubing that will fit over the barrel and under your hand guard.
 
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