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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have a Tanaka M700 AICS shipping to me in the mail, and I wanted your help with me going about upgrading it.

Buying it secondhand, it comes with a 6.03 Tightbore Custom Barrel, but it needs a new strike plate (What the hell is this lol?).

Now he has it shooting at 495-530 with a .42 gram BB. That is super crazy high, so I am going to need to find parts to bring it down.

What upgrades do you recommend to make this gun as accurate, consistent, and the best range. Now I would love if you knew which parts I should upgrade first, since I will be buying new parts when I have extra money for them.


Now I was looking and wondering if that ASGI custom rail would fit this barrel, and what attachment would I need to put a suppressor (Mock) on this?

Thanks for reading this, and goodbye for now
 

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The striker plate is the impact plate, it's the part on the mag that the valve knocker (sear) hits in order to release gas.

It's the black piece.

As for upgrade... You'll probably will need to buy a metal hop up housing(part 91) search for the Creation, also you'll have to buy and a VSR conversion hop up chamber preferably King Arms, you'll need a 554/555 mm VSR inner barrel and a 9ball VSR hard(purple) bucking.
Since you have problem with the striking plate of the mag buy the G&G Knock Arm and Plunger set (I couldn't in my AICS the power pack).

And then for best performance you'll need to convert it to HPA or CO2.

Wolf
 

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Get the G&G Knocker Arm and Plunger set because it replaces the striker plate and makes it much stronger. For the consistency, just like Wolf said, add an air rig. The other stuff is pretty simple (VSR barrel/hop-up conversion, barrel spacers, air nozzle, striker spring, etc.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well, I am wanting to refrain from using an external power source. I am wanting to just keep the magazines holding gas. Now, I realize I will not be getting amazing consistency with this setup. But you can't have it all.
 

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Well, I am wanting to refrain from using an external power source. I am wanting to just keep the magazines holding gas. Now, I realize I will not be getting amazing consistency with this setup. But you can't have it all.
If you don't mind me asking, why? Rigs can be built to fit in a stock pouch if your worrying about size, and they weigh next to nothing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Just in the subject of realism. I like to get as realistic as possible when I play because I am using it for more than just a stress reliever and fun, I use it to practice and train. As soon as I am done with my junior year I am enlisting in the Navy and shipping to boot camp after my senior year. Than most likely going straight to BUD/S (Basic Underwater Demolition/SEAL training).

Airsoft is the closest thing I can get to hunting others in scenarios, so I take it pretty seriously.
 

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Just in the subject of realism. I like to get as realistic as possible when I play because I am using it for more than just a stress reliever and fun, I use it to practice and train. As soon as I am done with my junior year I am enlisting in the Navy and shipping to boot camp after my senior year. Than most likely going straight to BUD/S (Basic Underwater Demolition/SEAL training).

Airsoft is the closest thing I can get to hunting others in scenarios, so I take it pretty seriously.
That's understandable, but I've seen CO2 rigs anywhere from inside of the stock to mounted on top of the scope. Also, since fall is right around the corner, the cooler weather will hurt the rifle's performance.

The upgrades mentioned above will help the consistency a little though even without a rig.
 

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Fall in Oklahoma, and winter in oklahoma stay in the 60-80. Summer spikes up to 100+.
Then you could probably get decent performance all the way down to 70-75 but you'll have to tweak the hop-up before your games. Also, the lower FPS you use, the more consistency you'll have.

One mod that I would recommend would be an R-Hop. That will really increase the range and the consistency of the spin that the hop-up puts on the bb.
 

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Thanks for helping me, I am learning a lot. How would I reduce the FPS, and what target FPS should I look for?
I'm not sure if the Tanaka rifles have this (unless you have a pre-ban), but my KJW has a tension adjuster inside of the bolt that allows the FPS to be adjusted. As for the target FPS, you would just need to play around with what works best.
 

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The Tanaka still has the that tensioner in the bolt, the preban version of Tanaka had the PCS(Power Control system) which was basically fps adjuster.
Still with the fps fluctuation on gas guns the pcs wasn't that accurate. If you convert it for CO2/HPA you can adjust the fps with the regulator.

Here's what a guy did to conseal his CO2 rig on the DSR1...


He stuf it under the scope!

Wolf
 

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Understandable, but the 5-7 inches of black macroline running to the bottom of the mag would be very much worth it. It is way less than in the picture Wolf posted.

That being said, what is your goal, FPS wise?
 

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The reason he made it that long is because the in the DSR you can change the bb strips instead of the entire mag, he just lowers the mag and replace a new strip.

The Tanaka version would have a much smaller line or you could even pass the line through the stock.


Wolf
 

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The reason he made it that long is because the in the DSR you can change the bb strips instead of the entire mag, he just lowers the mag and replace a new strip.

The Tanaka version would have a much smaller line or you could even pass the line through the stock.

Wolf
When I first got mine, the regulator and 12g C02 cartridge adapter were in a stock pouch and had no more then 8 inches of macroline to the mag. Only problem was, it made the bot hard to cycle if you were a righty. I run the line over my back and to a 13ci HPA bottle in a hydro-carrier now.
 
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