There should be three screws on the outside of the trigger mechanism that can be adjusted by a very small flathead screwdriver. Two on the shooter end, one on the muzzle end. One of the two on the shooter end of the mechanism should adjust the length of the trigger pull. This same screw also adjusts the sear engagement height. The longer the trigger pull, the higher the engagement height. Fiddle with that some, I can't remember which screw offhand, but that should be enough for a start.
Tanaka M700 - Cocking Piece does not latch
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Are you sure you can adjust the sear engagement height with a screw?
On my trigger unit I can not adjust it with a screw.
But I have add some lengt to the upper part of the trigger. So the engagement height is now perfect. And I can also use the G&G Steel Cocking Piece
So I have solved the problem.
But thx for your Help.
Here a picture of what I have done:
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You can see the one part is selfmade because I accidentally destroyed the original one... And I have places a small metal ring as a spacer. To the piece is longer and this causes the sear to be pushed a bit higher.
On my trigger unit I can not adjust it with a screw.
But I have add some lengt to the upper part of the trigger. So the engagement height is now perfect. And I can also use the G&G Steel Cocking Piece
So I have solved the problem.
But thx for your Help.
Here a picture of what I have done:
You can see the one part is selfmade because I accidentally destroyed the original one... And I have places a small metal ring as a spacer. To the piece is longer and this causes the sear to be pushed a bit higher.
There should be two screws on the opposite side of the mech from where there is a set screw sticking out of mine. I believe the upper of the two adjusts the trigger pull length. As you adjust the trigger pull length shorter, the engagement height drops. Longer, and the height rises. This can be seen through the circle in the picture above near the receiver.
@mroverkill: Yeah, there are three screws. One for the trigger resistance, one to adjust how much the trigger can be pulled and the other one to adjust how much you have to pull the rigger to shoot.
Okay, it drops and rises a bit. But I think that would be not enought to solve the problem I had.
But thank you, for the help, dude
Okay, it drops and rises a bit. But I think that would be not enought to solve the problem I had.
But thank you, for the help, dude
I am having the exact same problem of yours..I had to install a G&G Steel Cocking piece when my original broke (brute force is bad force, sometimes ).
And now the rifle slam fires when cocking the bolt..if I push it down a little, while pushing it forward to cock it..I might get away with it and still have a chance to fire correctly, but it slam fires 75% of the time..
I am going to try your method and see if it works Thanks for the explanations and pictures..they are going to help me, for sure!
...time passes by and..UPDATE:
I just finished tinkering and completed what Ripperkon did. I just tried it out and man: you saved my back.
It might be a little early to be sure, but I suggest this is made into a sticky or something like that..you Ripperkon deserve some real +1 in my book!
I know it's early to say, but I've been dry firing like crazy with and without the magazine in it (with the mag in this slam firing problem usually got accentuated) and the problem is gone!
Some sticky this and +1 Ripperkon. Once again, this forum rocks. Don't tell anyone though, this way the knuckleheads will keep out
).And now the rifle slam fires when cocking the bolt..if I push it down a little, while pushing it forward to cock it..I might get away with it and still have a chance to fire correctly, but it slam fires 75% of the time..
I am going to try your method and see if it works
Thanks for the explanations and pictures..they are going to help me, for sure!...time passes by and..UPDATE:
I just finished tinkering and completed what Ripperkon did. I just tried it out and man: you saved my back.
It might be a little early to be sure, but I suggest this is made into a sticky or something like that..you Ripperkon deserve some real +1 in my book!
This is the picture of the modification I am referring to, to make it more clear.A step-by-step analysis to the problem and workaround:
1a. It seems that the G&G Steel Cocking Piece is slightly off spec (ta-daah old news, right?
1b. To have it raise, the trigger (on which the bolt stop sits on) must be raised as well, but there is no way to adjust the sear position..hence the shimming.
1c. I used your exact same little round shim, shaving it on the sides so that it does not scratches against the trigger metal plates (some sand paper is enough).
2. That small increment in the sear height transfers over the bolt stop, which goes on par with the cocking piece.
3. You'll see the cocking piece "cocks" correctly, because when you cock the bolt you'll see it protruding way out of the bolt itself (it will stay with its "ass" back out from the bolt, towards you, for a good half).
I know it's early to say, but I've been dry firing like crazy with and without the magazine in it (with the mag in this slam firing problem usually got accentuated) and the problem is gone!
Some sticky this and +1 Ripperkon. Once again, this forum rocks. Don't tell anyone though, this way the knuckleheads will keep out
This thread deserves an update from me in the shape of a new post:
This method works perfectly. I shot more than ten magazines without one single slam fire or problem.
My problems with the Tanaka are gone as of today. This thing shoots like a sword..next in line: R-Hop (with time).
This method works perfectly. I shot more than ten magazines without one single slam fire or problem.
My problems with the Tanaka are gone as of today. This thing shoots like a sword..next in line: R-Hop (with time
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