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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi my friends! I made this thread for every one of us, and new users of this web who needs advice and recomendations of our gbb pistol care, like what you never do with you'r guns, magazines, to be carefull with it ( some treat an airsoft gun like it was a real steel one)

I will start with: do not dissasembly you'r gun so often more than the nescesary, you may get broke some internals(screws, pins, plastic parts)

Don't try you'r self to upgrade you'r gun if you dont have the knowledge to do it.

Don't dry fire you'r gun! You will damage the internals(trigger assembly and maybe some others parts)

Only use good brands of bb's, i use BSL
If you like green gas, do not use in you'r gbb the HK green gas!, it has a lot of silicone oil %

Treat you'r airsoft replica like what it is: a replica! Is not made for a real WAR! I saw some guys in you tube treating their guns and rifles so bad, like pulling the sniper bolt like crazy, in the floor the gas magazines and stuff like that


That's are some of my own experience, please you'r knowledge will be appreciate!, and if you have a link of an older post you'r welcome to share that to
 

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Why is it bad to dry fire a gbb? As long as you maintain it properly, I don’t see how a dry fire would have any extra effect? It’s not like the bb provides much, if any resistance in the system. It would cause the same wear to dry fire as it would to fire a bb.

I dry fire practice with my Hi-Capa all the time, it’s one of my favorite thing to do with it. Will I need to replace parts down the road? Yes, but is just the nature of the beast. Airsoft is not real steel, replacing parts is easy and *relatively cheep.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It is bad because you are making unnecessary wear on your pistol, and you would have to buy spare parts more often, and that would take you to be disarming the gun more times than appropriate, so in the end certain parts are damaged like worn screws and thing like that like I said before
 

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I have never understood people claiming dry firing is bad since it causes wear. Then by that thinking, you shouldn’t fire the gun at all, it causes wear...

Like I said earlier, you need to replace parts no matter what, so you might as well just use it, practice, and get better.

Edit: In my experience it’s better to use & abuse the gun and get better by practicing, then to leave it sitting in a case, safely tucked under your bed. You can always replace parts, just my two cents


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Agreed. Some of them aren’t that pricey, when it breaks just buy a new one... else maintain it.
One tip, not sure about it, but my opinion, don’t press on hammer to let out all gas after a game (obviously mag in). Sudden temperature changes may have bad effect on gummy/plastic parts. So empty mag when out of the gun.

How do you know your green gas can is empty? Mine noticeably gets less shots after a refill now, but can seems heavy and there’s still liquid inside.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have never understood people claiming dry firing is bad since it causes wear. Then by that thinking, you shouldn't fire the gun at all, it causes wear...

Like I said earlier, you need to replace parts no matter what, so you might as well just use it, practice, and get better.

Edit: In my experience it's better to use & abuse the gun and get better by practicing, then to leave it sitting in a case, safely tucked under your bed. You can always replace parts, just my two cents

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Anyone else approves that dry firing is a good thing? tell your experiences of what is good and what is bad for your gbb
 

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Dry-fire causes exactly the same wear as actually shooting bbs. It takes a long, long time to get something to wear down on most guns. I maintain the pistols for a rental field, and those thing go through a couple years of thousand rounds per day, every single day, before failing at all.
 

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Exactly, thank you Dimitri. In my experience most gbbs can take a lot of abuse before breaking down.

Airsoft is not like RS, you can’t really damage a “firing pin” since most gbbs use pretty beefy valve knockers so it’s really a nonissue.

Edit: I just realized this thread is in the completely wrong spot, maybe an admin can move it?

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Edit: I just realized this thread is in the completely wrong spot, maybe an admin can move it?

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Yes! You'r right! I didn't see right when i posted xd. :yup:

Well, every one thinks dry fire is safe, I'm not so sure.

any other personal experience? Or just maybe this post is so silly? :nuts:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hi, I also noticed that you have to shake the green gas well from the first to the last use, why? So you will have a better performance of gas and silicone, because before you empty the bottle you will have more silicone accumulation and you will not have as many shots as with a brand new bottle of green gas
 

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Dont use green gas, it will just put excess silicon in your hop group. I run dry propane and just maintain the pistol with high quality lube when I break it down. High quality lube = superlube


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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Well i use green gas cuz i'm afraid of broken some internas or like happend to me with my desert eagle, the locking part of the outer barrel it broke *and other parts too* using only green gas, imagine if i use propane!!, But anyways i repare the outer barrel and now is working,.. But I think it broke becouse two things: the outer barrel it moved a bit back and forward, and theouter barrel is too thing, so the blowback is very stronger and it's just broke...
I contact to AST and i explain the problem to them, what if you made a steel barrel, and they were agree to make it
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
But...green gas and propane are the exact same thing. Green gas is just purified and has a silicone additive. :shrug:
Yea, But in many vídeos i saw the comparsion between gg and propane and it has more fps, the gg has power fps so...
 

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They're the same thing. The green gas just has additives to prevent corrosion of the rubber parts in the magazine and gun.

This is why you can now buy propane adapters that have a reservoir for silicone oil. This effectively makes propane just as safe for your gun and much cheaper to use (for most people) than green gas.

There should be no significant power difference between the two and any that you see would simply be due to variation between temperature, how the mag was filled, etc.
 

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I do agree that propane and green gas are pretty much the same basic propellant, but for those who are lax on the lube (like my kid), green gas is kind of goof proof that way. As for too much lube, they've got that figured out and the proportion of lube to propane in a can of green gas is right. It keeps things working without soaking the gun.

Now, as for maintenance, etc, I am exceptionally particular about maintenance. After a game, my guns get stripped down and cleaned and are always at the ready for the next firefight. Parts are checked over for any damage that may have occured during the last game and everything is in exceptional working order. Mags never hit the floor or the ground (there's no reason for it...that's Hollywood), and at 50 bucks for a CO2 mag, why would I let it hit the floor? I worked too hard for that money. :)

I never dry fire anything...real steel, compound bow, airsoft gun, slingshot, air stapler..whatever. These machines are designed to operate under load. You can for test purposes, but no, I wouldn't do it regularly as an exercise. All guns get treated as if they were loaded at all times. Just safe practice and years of habit. Dry firing puts undo stress on components. Sure, it'll still last damned near forever and they may seems relatively cheap to replace, but I like to keep things forever and in perfect condition when possible. Sometimes, it makes all the difference when it has to.

As for green gas, not my thing. I'm a CO2 guy. I never game indoors and outdoors I use a CO2 pistol as a sniper/DMR secondary, in which case, they need to really reach out and touch someone. In response to barrels, I have a few options...the revolver packs multi shot shells, the 1911 has a modified nozzle and rocket valve for extra 'smack' and better gas mileage, and my little Prowler has a tightbore barrel and r hop for when I need alot of range and accuracy.

When using CO2 (as it is a very dry gas), one drop of silicone oil on the top of the cartridge (powerlet) before inserting into the gun or mag will provide enough lube to keep the gun happy. When I store the gun for long periods I put a drop of oil on a spent cartridge and place it loosely in the mag or handle so that the silicone remains in contact with the seal without exerting pressure on it. It keeps the seal 'wet'. So far, I have years in these guns with no repairs whatsoever. I know, I'm bad for business. hahahaha

That said, all the pistols are modified in house with the exception of two. A Skeleton (Dan Wesson) 4" revolver and the KJW MK2 (Co2 version). These are two pistols that are pretty much goof proof. Out of the box ideal for what I need them for and they just work. A little regular maintenance and they're on. Both give exceptional performance range as neither is blowback. I get well over 100 shots in either gun on a CO2 cartrdige, fps is strong, the shot shells in the revolver work exceptionally well, and the KJ with even a stock hop up (for now) works just fine. Guns like my 1911 have had the slide polished with rouge to make them like glass and reduce friction and wear substantially. It feels like it's on ball bearings! Also takes less gas, etc,etc..

Oh, and yes...get the best ammo possible. Always. Especially in higher fps pistols with hop up units. Revolvers and other smooth bores with no hops don't really care. hehehe
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
thank you !, I appreciate your comment very good, personally I think the dry fire is bad, and if that's just why we are adding more wear to the gun, I do not think it's worth doing. anyway, it is better for the gun to die due to its normal use.

Besides, this thread was made for advices base on our own experiences
 
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